Building Materials and Construction Technology
hapazard: [citat] There will be no consequences at all. The screws will more than outlast the garage.
torparavgrund: In response to your question, yes, a wood screw that is long enough not to stick through the other side. Here, a screw with a conical head has been chosen, which doesn't look very nice. Choose one with a flat/rounded head. You will likely use panel boards, which are often 22mm thick, so perhaps something like these.
Vallstad: [citat] Hi, There's probably a lot of truth in what you write. I'll take this into the planning. Thanks!
Andersistugan: Thank you very much for this tip! It responds well to my needs.👍
Snickartasken: ...But it depends on how much moisture comes from the ground as well...
FamByggare: Hi, There are a couple of variations on how to build gable walls in single-story houses with cold attics. Some let the load-bearing studs run from sill all the way up to the sheathing, while others (prefab) deliver the gable wall and the gable peak separately. Then there are those who build the gable wall just like the long sides and choose to place the truss at the very end of the top plate. The
z_bumbi: They are called concealed [citat] They are called concealed hinges when it comes to doors, and for example, IKEA has a version where you want to move the cabinet door to the side to pull out a drawer. I've only seen them in place and have never bought or installed any, so I don't have any clues about which ones are good or bad.
Joak: I have made two regular sliding doors from old doors that were there before. Used Jula's stuff about 8 years ago and I think they've worked well. Install a guide on the floor that comes with the kit, so it's stable sideways. I'm sure there are no problems doing it the way you planned.
rsa: [citat] Variant three would have been good. However, there were many stones in the ground and in some places, it wasn't possible to dig the plinth directly under the post. It had to be as close to the corner as possible. To be safe, I also placed a concrete slab on the ground under the post with sill paper in between :-) [bild]
johan28: I have tried to repair two crumbling steps. I bought Finja fine concrete. Estimated the amount incorrectly so mixed separate batches. Both batches turned out quite runny, but no excess water. The package says if I remember correctly "max 3 liters for 25 kg" but it was too dry to be usable. I covered it with a garbage bag and let it cure slowly, also added some water gradually. Cured for about 2
Bart: I believe it is the architect's responsibility to hire a structural engineer who provides dimensions and construction solutions if the architect cannot do it themselves. But it all depends on what has been ordered and what has been communicated prior to the order.
cpalm: Regardless, drilling so close to the edge is not a good idea, there's a high risk of it cracking. Tricky/dangerous solution, it hardly complies with building regulations...
MasMats: Take an identical fascia board. Turn it upside down, and you'll have your magical wedge automatically. This way, you can install your profiles without any problem.
AG A: As a retired structural engineer, I share the previous writers' opinion. There is much to suggest that they are load-bearing.
kjell53: [citat] According to Swedish wood, there should not be more than a 1mm difference at 20% moisture content. Here it differs by over 2 mm.
butchbob: Hi, last fall I built a deck with a carpenter. This summer I would like to finish the last parts but can no longer consult him. So I need your help if possible 😊 Picture 1,2: I start by trimming the cover board by 5 mm with a Fein saw. Then I cut the last decking board to fit. 0) Correct assumption above? 1) Do I use a Fein saw to cut the cover board? 2) Newly purchased decking board, should
Adam. H: Hi! I'm renovating a room in my apartment and I'm unsure how best to proceed with this wall (see picture). It's a concrete wall that previously had wallpaper, but now I've removed most of it. I'm considering trying to soundproof it a bit, as quite a lot can be heard from the neighbors in the adjacent apartment. However, the room is quite small, so I'm afraid of building out too much. I’ve heard
lutorm: [citat] Exactly, from the attic (on top of the vapor barrier to the inner ceiling) through the vertical wall into the room (wall-mounted air vent). I can therefore go from the attic space into the room without passing through a vapor barrier.
z_bumbi: It became 8° on the roof Now it will be difficult to get the skis into the roof trusses. . :D
Oldboy: I think it might not be very difficult to get it even enough with natural stone. However, it is likely a bit heavier. My experience with old methods, which is admittedly not extensive, is that they are quite simple and straightforward once you start working with them. I believe the biggest obstacle is our lack of knowledge and experience. Leca is specifically dimensioned and straight, but
ColonelKurtz: Plan to lay 5 cm of yard gravel on a patio. We are now wondering how to proceed with the groundwork. There is already 15 cm of compacted crushed rock. I was thinking of adding a layer of 5 cm of macadam for drainage before placing the yard gravel on top. Now the builder has placed a landscape fabric between the crushed rock and the macadam. Feels unnecessary, or is it good? Wouldn't it be more
Jotsat: I scraped down quite a bit under the paint as well, so it should be okay to apply with a board anyway. If it looks okay afterwards, I'll return with a picture :) By the way, I can recommend Bahco’s wave-shaped scraper blade for paint scrapers. Very effective on plaster and retains its sharpness very well. After these 4 sqm, I haven't even turned the blade yet and the sharpness is still good.
cpalm: [citat] Some suggestions: 1. Make sure there is one or more vertically screwed-in dividers in the middle and use them as "hidden" brackets, i.e., screw them into the wall. 2. Stiffen up the shelves (at least the bottom one) with something bend-resistant, e.g., standing strips of plywood, preferably several and preferably "double sandwiches" 2x12mm screwed and glued, or an L-shaped steel rail. 3.
sepani: [citat] Yes, that's right. In the floor, there was 50 mm of foam concrete embedded except in the "den part", where there was a raised floor with loose fill, where I poured a new floor with 100 mm of foam concrete. The entire floor has an LK system low-profile water-based heating that has worked great. But under the walls, I haven't checked. I'll scrape and paint, it's due time anyway....
anders07: I don't quite understand what you mean, maybe a picture would help... Anyway, if you're thinking of a joint without countersinks, you can glue paper tape (with e.g. våtrumsgrund) and then apply putty with a "bump"... just like when short sides of plasterboards meet.
turbo100: [citat] Sounds reasonable. I got the idea of using floor tiles in plastic, they have air holes and might work well as a spacer. https://www.jula.se/catalog/tradgard/utemiljo/utegolv-och-altanracken/golvplattor-och-plastgolv/golvplattor-019171/ Maybe nail those in place and saw around them - too bad they're not black.. Then I just hope they don't melt through the paper when it's 35+ and sunny..
Husstartare: Hello! A kitchen sized for a housewife suits some people, but unfortunately not us. Therefore, a renovation is forthcoming, along with the usual plans to "open up". Currently, the kitchen is accessed via two doors, which we plan to remove along with 1-2 meters of wall on either side of each door. Above the kitchen is the house's flat (low-pitched) roof, whose roof structure is made up of sturdy