Building Materials and Construction Technology
Lechuza: [citat] Fill with polyurethane foam, let it dry, then cut off the excess. Apply putty to make it even, glue paper strips with wet room glue to cover the hole. After this dries, apply putty 2-3 times thinly, then sand and paint. The paper strips are used to prevent cracking; if you skip this, it will crack anyway. You can do as you said with the drywall, but it feels much easier with polyurethane
Samwest: [citat] No, not at all, as the glulam beams also become crazily expensive. It was just that the roof pitch was so low and now with the new principle, we've adjusted the roof pitch and achieved a higher inner ceiling, plus I can use roof tiles. [citat] Yes, this sounds good if it can be achieved, but I've been experimenting a bit in some dimensioning tool and can't get it to work.
proffsrik: Such thin concrete will crack. Self-leveling compound should have a surface layer and not be "bare." I suggest Ardex A46, very expensive but good, and it wasn't such a large area.
Hemmasnickarn85: [citat] Yes, I should. I get access on April 1st and I'm trying to plan as much as possible beforehand. The bathroom will be four times bigger (taking over a bedroom) so I will be moving the drainage.
catherineb: Thank you for your answers! Then I have some options :)
Jani Melender: [citat] Well, isn't that something, the plug is 11.7 millimeters. I guess that's "imperial" measurements. Oh well, I'll go buy a new screw and plug then... thanks for the help. =)
Krille77: Hello, I have an old retaining wall that is coated with vaskolit. Unfortunately, it has come loose in two places that I need to replaster. From what I understand, vaskolit was used in the 60s-80s. Is it still available for purchase and if so, where? Regards
LindaBL: [citat] Yes, those were the ones I was looking for! Thanks!
Åsa Lund: 99% Call Ytong or Siporex and check with them. I used to work in public housing and there we had problems with interior aerated concrete absorbing moisture from the brick facade (there was no air gap). The back of the paintings would mold and the walls were so wet that they became cold.
Tompafix: [citat] There are solutions for that too :rofl:
trojlee: [citat] The steps themselves are a wooden floor, the same that we have in the basement where you come down, I cut the risers from white window sills, it was the most cost-effective. I didn't buy one of those templates you can use to measure the steps but instead cut templates out of cardboard and used them as a template when I cut with the plunge saw. Something I should have done was paint
huggan: It applies to the entire roof and you can translate it to 200kg per sqm, the same standard that applies in Sweden for regular floor joists.
lordi: Cut the quarter round to a suitable length (+some trimming allowance). Soak it for a few hours and put it under tension. If it needs to be bent a lot, tension it gradually in stages. I've done this with successful results. If you're afraid it will crack, you can pre-drill with a thin drill bit before nailing.
Rickard.: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selenium_dioxide Also available in Swedish but the information is sparse there.
drbygg: We have built a cat flap from the hallway to a storage room just outside our front door (then the cats have another flap out through the storage room door). After doing some reading, we realized it was important to make sure that no moist indoor air got into the insulation, so we have ensured that it is sealed towards the insulation. I also read a previous post on this forum and followed their
BirgitS: Welcome to the forum! The best way to find out what material is in the wall is to test drill. For particleboard, you probably need wood screws, which are not used for concrete plugs. https://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/allmant/skruv-och-spikguide
dahlhue: Hello! I'm a complete beginner and thinking of trying to build a wall myself according to the following sketch, similar to the neighbor's (same height or one level lower), and build a privacy screen with two ground posts/concrete plinths. The plan is to raise the soil inside and slightly increase the ground level so the slope doesn't become so pronounced, and then roll out grass. I plan to make
sinuslinus: Yes, you can use that with a center screw.
Ekliptikan: I need to drywall a 150 mm wide wall between two kitchen cabinets. The wall to which I've attached the stud is slanted by a few degrees, resulting in a 6 mm difference between the top and bottom. This will be very visible as the drywall won't be level with the cabinet fronts. How can I best compensate between the stud and drywall to get everything aligned?
Hus tomte: If the gypsum ceiling is at the level you want all the "other" ceilings, then let that ceiling guide all the "ceilings"
överste senap: When we cut down a lightweight concrete wall, there was rebar in it, about 5mm in diameter. These were probably roughly in the middle of the wall, which was 70mm.
nino: Depends on the amount of water on how runny it will be, but mix as thick as you can, add a little more sand from a sandbox or similar. Mix well and place in the mold, let it sit for an hour until it has hardened a bit and then mix normally.
Den efterkloke: Thanks for the tips Regards Den efterkloke
fremax: Passive houses have walls with a U-value of about 0.125, and the windows can have a maximum of 0.9 if I remember correctly. Kind regards, fremax
Marlen Eskilsson: The discussion has gone off topic and the original poster has left the thread. Therefore, closing it. Our discussion rules: [citat] https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/anvaendarvillkor-med-diskussionsregler.220278/ /Moderator