Building Materials and Construction Technology
largab: Lower 22 mm chips between the floor joists.
Jackeskruf: [citat] 27 degrees roof pitch, some kind of framework truss over the span. Not a raised wall, rather the opposite - the cap is pulled down far over the panel.
justusandersson: [citat] Yes, if you bolt them together. Otherwise, you can always order a 165x315. It's one of the advantages of glulam.
KJD: It is not possible to cut the board without damaging the old "vapor barrier" (paper with some form of plastic coating). Therefore, it is not possible to achieve overlap in the usual sense. Since I couldn't find a renovation solution and don't want to take down all the interior walls (right now), I did this. If anyone else faces the same problem: 1. Cut the old particleboard, including the vapor
pennybridge: There are good floor joints in different colors that you can try with. It certainly won't get worse, at least.
edmund: I am building a small house on wheels with a vaulted roof. The roof trusses are glued laminated timber, curved with a radius of 2m. The house is 3.6*x2.2m. Now it's time to make the ceiling, and I'm a bit unsure about what will be easiest and look best. Is it possible to bend a thin plywood that much? When I search for images of vaulted ceilings, many beautiful ceilings appear. How are such
dejonki89: Any tips for the bathroom? Shower, toilet, and sink come to mind spontaneously.
lallaren: [citat] Okay! Thanks for the simple and clear answer.
Märtta: [citat] Thank you so much! Exciting reading:)
Fairlane: Maybe Essve Duckfoot could be something for you? The screw is included and fits and will have sufficient length.
Åsa Lund: Should be able to switch to plastic wrap?
Åsa Lund: It doesn't say anything about when the house was built. It could be a newly made drawing of an old house.
Bigfoot: Mine are marked Thorsman I see, so it might be doubtful then.
Per Möller: Thanks for the response. I'm considering adding a layer of epoxy to seal all air pockets and then possibly sanding it down to a matte finish and treating it again with a matte varnish if needed. Any comments on this? Regarding not "sealing in" concrete that breathes, I don't really understand since it's often done the same way when treating, for example, floors in warehouses, etc., but I might be
TechChad: If you can get a thread in the wall, it might work. Depending on what kind of wall it is, maybe some of the following could work: https://www.biltema.se/verktyg/handverktyg/nitverktyg/nittanger/mutternitsats-2000016802?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0caCBhCIARIsAGAfuMwuof3cAHnrYian4Ke0mdj4Qo6LV-QvF5iHn2e3nx2zg0uvB9kOIDAaAsfOEALw_wcB
jbr: [citat] Drill (without hammer action as mentioned) with a good drill bit. Always good to start with a smaller diameter. There are plugs that stick better in materials of varying quality. Check e.g. Hornbach if you have one nearby.
nimhed: [citat] Agree, but I think you could comfortably space cc300 if you're installing a plasterboard ceiling.
mhoglund: Here's how the solution turned out. Thanks for all the tips!
BuzyBi: [citat] Reviving the thread as I need to find insulation material for the floor against the crawl space in the log house. We have remediated house fungus, so cellulose feels risky if something comes to life... We have received advice on flax and hemp, but these are hard to find and quite expensive. Could this be a good alternative? The wood fibers appear to be covered in concrete, so maybe
RealElwood: [citat] If you attach to the wall and the pillar, it will be stable. I attached mine to the joists for the patio and with metal brackets to the facade, it doesn't budge. Without attachment to the facade, my posts (95 mm) swayed quite a bit when tilting PU. With securing against the facade, it was solved.
LghTva: Hello! Thank you for your answers. We decided to go with single plasterboard on the side with the studs and OSB + plasterboard on the back of the cabinet. It turned out great.
Libelle: Hello! I have now demolished my cobblestone-built smoke oven with a concrete slab on the top and bottom. An 18 kg demolition hammer from Bauhaus did the job. Good luck with yours (if it still exists)
Urban bollö: Hi Per and Nissens, Thank you for the quick and good response. It seems that I should only place it on the pappen. I'll get back to you with the results. //Urban
OmpaOmpaa: Hey! We're in the middle of building a deck, and questions keep popping up. We've resolved some of the issues, but a few remain. The deck is 14x8m and slightly elevated at the front, so we really want the construction to be stable and secure. We have the main beams and joists in place, and now we're thinking of installing posts for the railing before we continue with the fascia on one side. With
Jeber: Is there a good constructor near Lund that is recommended?