Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jeber: Is there a good constructor near Lund that is recommended?
Gjutjärn: [citat] Awesome, thanks for the help!
jahallåja: It turned into a game of pick-up sticks with 15 mm plywood as reinforcement for both risers and treads, with various studs screwed into, among other things, the stringers to support the new boards. Turned out quite okay. Bouncing is gone, less or no creaking, so we'll see how it holds up over time.
frma71: Want to follow up here in case someone else is searching. Will be screw-glued 22mm particle board on top of 70mm joists and screw-glued plywood (~12mm) and gypsum (6mm) on the underside. ~110mm
Westie: Many thanks for the great and practical advice! Mostly been working with wooden constructions of various kinds so far. We should be able to manage this.
Nicklasand: One option I have been considering is: Posts 95x95 cc1500 Nail rail 50x75 Slats 45x25 This might look more aesthetically pleasing, and I also get a thicker nail rail to drive the screw into. I can mention that I will also have a gate, and I don't want it to be too wide.
sinuslinus: I would use an ms polymer glue in a tube and spread it out with a glue spreader/glue scraper before applying it to the wall. Then it doesn't build up so thick and there's less risk of the plywood warping from water-based glue.
Stenshultaren: I am in the process of building a bathroom and laundry room in the house which is made of some form of hollow brick. It looks like some sort of block anyway, but it's not Leca. The house was built in 1909. Now the question is how I should go about covering the inside of the wall without getting moisture problems. The space that is to be built in used to be a stable part in the past, so the
Skogssus: [citat] In my case, to fasten the handle to a nice old gate that unfortunately got "fixed" when we sent it to a welder to replace a part. He tapped new screw holes (M6) and inserted large machine screws where there used to be almost hidden and secure slot screws. It looks awful, but it's hard to fix since the screw holes are now as they are. An alternative to screws with a smaller head might be a
AlexKa1973: [citat] Unfortunately, the load is impossible to predict, but it will be part of a shelving system for item storage in the garage, and I would prefer the shelf to withstand at least 100-150 kg. Using screw bolts and extension nuts might be a good idea.
cpalm: [citat] Go ahead with husfix if it feels good, it'll turn out great. But it won't have the same texture, which was the original question. I wouldn't worry about moisture in your case. But even the gypsum plaster is mineral, "breathes," and tolerates a bit of moisture.
JSE: [citat] The stairs are not something I, as an amateur, noticed, at least not that you could figure out so much just based on them. Thank you for sharing (y)
RSRC: Exactly If you have a good ftx I believe half the battle is won. If you have plastic on the inside - alternatively everything diffusion-open including facade paint another 40% The remaining 10% are all exceptions. :)
larsbj: 45*220 C24 cc450 will be fine if you either have full lengths or lap joint properly. I usually use 5.4m lengths and overlap and nail together properly. Since you have different lengths, you can take 4.5+5.4 length to get 2m overlap. Without having calculated it, I would think you'd end up with about 20 90 mm nails in the joint.
Gabsson: So here, about 6 months after the project started, it turned out like this. A standing seam metal roof remains when the weather improves. Lots of problem-solving along the way with concrete calculation, reinforcement, loads and counterloads, glulam beams, insulation, etc. I am still satisfied with the final solutions I've chosen. The only potential risk construction is the roof where I skipped
Maveric77: You're probably right, I'm thinking incorrectly. The spring on the trunk lid does indeed help to open the lid and holds it on the way down. Such a mechanism should work if it can lift sufficiently heavy weights. Then the question becomes how to find the right model. I guess it's just a matter of measuring how long it needs to be in the fully extended position, and how much it needs to be able to
bossespecial: A bit more discussion can be found in this thread: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/isolering-snedtak.409430/#post-4123798
Plätt Fia: Very interesting brick they have created. But you have to buy the machines. Would you dare to invest in them? Building a grill would be super easy. :) Says I, who have never done masonry.... ;) https://sv.decorexpro.com/kirpich/lego/ [MEDIA=youtube]BGsSujRfC3s[/MEDIA]
ValterBy: It went perfectly. The roof is as straight and nice as before :-)
tommib: Since I believe that single-pipe systems are the devil's invention, I say replace the whole lot. The problem with single-pipe systems is that they are tricky to adjust. If you replace everything, you still have to do a whole recalculation because you change the flows by replacing the pipes. Not worth it with all that headache, I say.
jonaserik: Drill, insert plug, and cut off the screw if it is too long.
D.anne_85: We have a sunroom where the window sections are placed on top of a board that lies directly against the concrete slab. The concrete slab is tiled both inside and outside, see picture. The board under the window sections has become water damaged over the years, and now water runs into the sunroom under/through the board when it rains. The pillars supporting the roof over the sunroom stand directly
cpalm: [citat] Oh yes, many have oak planks. However, they are usually pretty darn crooked and sad pieces in the bins, so it feels wrong to pay a premium for them, but that's another matter. XL-bygg Palms trä has a small corner with various hardwoods. They seem to be more on top of the quality of the timber. The price reflects that too... https://www.butik.xlbygg.se/palms/sortiment/tra/adeltra
blomfluga: Looking for construction advice and preferably pictures of built-in porches... during construction, it is not intended to have heating in my planned project... The most important thing is that there will be windows and some wind protection...
OmpaOmpaa: Super, thank you so much!
FrippeFlyer: [citat] Old beam structure. Slightly under-dimensioned in my opinion... /F
gryden: [citat] This forum is amazing :heart:
Fredrik111: It was probably me being a bit timid with the drilling, and also the first drill bit was probably a bit worn. When I switched to a larger drill bit and applied more pressure, I was able to drill.
Alestrom: [citat] Sorry for the late reply. In the absence of better alternatives, I did some tests myself and decided that it would be sufficient to attach only to the ceiling panels. Having done that, I can confirm that the result turned out well. The rails are mounted and feel very stable.
MathiasS: Yes, there is a risk that you have it in the tile adhesive or for example in the glue for the floor mat. Sampling is the only way to know for sure.