Soundproof wall 70s house

[KungAnka]

Ah, now I understood what you meant.
I'll think about it a bit then, as I would have to tear down the old walls and set up everything new then.

If you're lucky, you might only need to tear off the panels in one room. Then you can set new studs inside what was previously the wall, leaving a gap against the panels that remain. Then add insulation and new panels; the new panels should not make contact with the old studs.
It's not certain that you can remove one of the panels; in my previous house, which was modular built, both panels were glued to some kind of cardboard that was in the middle. That wall was like a drum skin that rather amplified than reduced sound.

 

[pemu]

If you're lucky, it might be enough to tear off the boards in one room. Then you can install new studs inside what was previously the wall, leaving a gap against the boards that remain. Then add insulation and new boards, the new boards should not be in contact with the old studs. It might not be possible to remove one board, in my previous house which was modularly built, both boards were glued to some kind of corrugated cardboard that was in the middle. That wall was like a drum skin that rather amplified than reduced sound.

It's the same things that I'm writing in my post above

 

[Hannes2000]

I vote for 1-2 extra layers of drywall and sound/vibration damping adhesive. Here is a small article from the magazine studio: https://studio.idg.se/2.1078/1.492639/dampa-studion-med-klister

For soundproofing, materials with high density, airtightness, and preventing vibrations from propagating are essential.

 

[camelspin]

Considering how things are now, it can only get better, just try the method you can manage. If the gap in the floor is so large, a lot of caulk will be needed. Perhaps there is reason to:

Insert rock wool as a strand in the middle under the floorboard, pack from both sides

Place a round backing rod of foam from both sides and press them against the wool.

Caulk in the remaining cm

Perhaps not the best for sound, but otherwise, you'll likely need to buy a lot of caulk cartridges.

Maybe someone else knows how foam sealant would work?

 

[BäverBerra]

To clarify, I will either keep the module walls or remove them. They are filled with straw/reeds and the plaster is nailed to the studs. There's no option to remove one side. It creates a lot of extra work.

And then there are the closets from the hallway outside the bedrooms that are built into the child's room but not in our room. That's why I'm leaning more towards a quick fix to not demolish before we've decided whether to keep the closets or not.

 

[camelspin]

Absolutely, the same with me regarding closets, and not just that, it seems they had used the closets instead of studs to nail the drywall. Super fun when I tried to pull out the closet and the drywall came along with it! And it was so cramped that there wasn't space to put in new studs, had to build a special setup with angle brackets, various planks, etc., completely insane. Hence, OSB was advantageous as it allowed the drywall to be mounted with short screws here and there and still get a fairly stiff wall without real studs on every center.

Besides, nailed drywall is an advantage when you need to tear it out.

I didn't have strån, it was empty so I could just go ahead.

If you choose to just dust on another layer of drywall, it might be the fastest, just try to hit the studs.

If you have concrete underneath, it might be practical not to remove the module wall, as it's quite a hassle to attach to.

 

[BäverBerra]

It's probably the same for us that the plaster is directly on the wardrobe frames. Even the door frame is attached to the frame

 

[KungAnka]

It's the same things as I wrote in my post above

Yes, I just clarified since TS seemed to be considering tearing down the entire wall even though you wrote that half might be enough. Nice to only need to re-wallpaper one side and also only half as many furniture pieces need to be moved during the construction.

 

[pemu]

Yes, I just clarified since the thread starter seemed to be considering tearing down the whole wall but you mentioned that half might be enough. Nice to only have to repaper one side and moreover only half as many furniture pieces need to be moved during the construction.

 

[Lellegul]

In the Gyproc Handbook, you'll find your soundproof wall.

https://www.gyproc.se/sites/gypsum.nordic.master/files/gyproc-site/BroschyrerSE/Handbok/KAP 2.1.0 HANDBOK-9.pdf

https://www.gyproc.se/konstruktioner/innerväggar/innerväggar-med-ljudreglar

https://www.gyproc.se/wallselector?f[0]=field_s_tax_wall_height:18935&f[1]=field_s_stud_width:21411&f[2]=field_s_sound_classification:28231&f[3]=field_s_fire_requirements:18244

I would think you'll achieve the desired effect if you choose a complementary wall construction as indicated above, building the wall on the side where the sound originates.

Good luck!

 

[nino]

build the wall on the side where the noise occurs

It might be different at different times

 

[paa_1]

cover the entire wall with egg cartons... classic

Works as a sound absorber and reduces the room's reverberation slightly, but useless as soundproofing between two rooms.

 

[Myrstacken]

Functions as a sound absorber and slightly reduces the echo in the room, but useless as soundproofing between two rooms.

It doesn't work at all actually, it's just a myth because the shape looks like a sound absorber. Yet there are many rehearsal rooms with young people who still do it this way. Maybe it helps in a shelter with concrete walls to reduce the echo as you say. But it's a fun classic.