How to cut concrete blocks that cannot be sawn traditionally?

[Gabbe1]

Or mount two additional layers of gips on the wall.

 

[ChrisCornell]

Or mount two extra layers of gypsum on the wall.

I have also thought about that, but it won't align further down the wall where the gypsum suddenly sticks out a lot. Unfortunately, the wall and lecablocks do not follow each other the whole way. The edge becomes smaller and smaller until after 7-8 meters they are level with each other.

 

[ChrisCornell]

There are angle grinders designed for difficult spaces that, with a blade for leca, would basically allow you to cut along the wall. An inspiration from Metabo below.
[bild]
And really to mention it, but absolutely not to recommend it, there are extreme variants of air-powered angle grinders with a long shaft that you can of course mount a diamond blade on, but the risk of ending up in the following thread can be significant on [link]

But that is exactly the kind of angle grinder/cutter I am looking for but haven't found at Bauhaus, K-rauta, and others. That is, with a cutting disc that can be placed flat against a surface without the center bolt and locking mechanism sticking out.

 

[useless]

You can drive with a disc like this, but expect it to get a little messy...

 

[ChrisCornell]

You can use a disc like this, but expect it to get a bit dirty...

[image]

Yep, that's the kind of diamond wheel I started using, but it gets disgustingly dusty and dirty and it's hard to get it even. So I want to avoid it, otherwise, I'd have to empty the whole garage.

 

[MathiasS]

a little dirty...

The understatement of the year.

 

[myrstack]

Yep, it was such a diamond blade I started using, but it gets disgustingly dusty and dirty, and it's difficult to get it even. So I want to avoid it; otherwise, I have to empty the entire garage.

I think you're back to using an ax or flat iron on a hammer drill if you don't want dust everywhere. Water cooling is out of the question unless you want to push moisture into the wall/sill. Anything that rotates will require emptying the garage or containment.

 

[ChrisCornell]

I think you're back to axe or flat iron on a rotary hammer if you don't want dust everywhere. Water-cooled is out of the question unless you want to push moisture into the wall/sill. Anything that rotates will require emptying the garage or enclosure.

My hope is for some type of cutting disc that makes "clean cuts" so I avoid the worst dust

 

[fribygg]

I believe that it is both the fastest, easiest, and cheapest to sala on the wall so it becomes thicker and covers the lecan

 

[ChrisCornell]

I believe that it is both the fastest, simplest, and cheapest to sala on the wall so it becomes thicker and covers the leca

Sala?

 

[fribygg]

Sala?

Build on the wall (sala), with a thin batten/strip of OSB and a new gypsum board (or double boards) so that the new surface covers the leca base.

 

[ChrisCornell]

Build on the wall(sala), with a thin strip of osb and a new gypsum board (or double boards) so the new surface covers the lecasockel.

Aha!
The thought has crossed my mind, but the wall and lecablock are not straight in relation to each other all the way, unfortunately. It's also a bit messy with all the junction boxes and outlets on the wall, even though it can be fixed.

The closest option now is to use the recessed cutting disc even though I won't be completely flush with the wall.

 

[fribygg]

but the wall and lecablock are not straight with each other all the way

That's why I suggest adding to the wall instead of just applying double boards, which is likely the quickest.

 

[ChrisCornell]

That's why I suggest sala on the wall instead of just applying double boards, which is likely the fastest.

Ah, that's what you mean. Damn, that wasn't stupid. Thanks