Building Materials and Construction Technology
Testarn: Shouldn't the supplier of the parquet (oak planks) be able to advise on the recommended underlay? If you're installing herringbone parquet, it needs to be a fairly solid base, even if you're just gluing it. Nailing it wouldn't work if you have water-based heating :) You also don't want to use a board that's too thick so that the heating can function - I recall there is a maximum thickness for the
JonazThern: [citat] If we're going to "derail" from the topic, the plan for this room is as follows: Floor: Tiles, as it is concrete directly against the foundation. House from 1959, so no ventilation underneath, so tiles to allow the floor to breathe. Wall: Probably just paint, and have wood on the parts where, for example, the TV will be, a bit like an "accent wall" but wood paneling 2 meters wide or
Tompafix: [citat] There are several different fastening methods. Here are some from the wood guide. https://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/limtrakonstruktioner/fakta-om-limtra/projektering/anslutningsdetaljer/pelartopp/
Termobarisk: [citat] [citat] I didn't even know they existed, but I googled a bit and found ones for drilling (so you don't have to carve out holes). It seems like a much simpler solution, thank you so much! 🙏
T A: [QUOTE="Granngubben, post: 5499877, member: 127041"] Perhaps I should develop my latest brief somewhat cryptic answer (I am a man of few words). The winner usually is the option that meets the requirements at the lowest cost. 45x195 meets the requirements according to the thread starter, unclear with what margins concerning strength and deflection. Both proposed alternatives to 45x195 meet the
Gruvanna: [citat] No, it's not 190 sqm. The floor area is about 50 sqm with slanted ceilings, so I assume it's about 120 sqm of wall and ceiling area.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Also, you don't know if it's been filled under the stone floor, so it could be a lot of work.
ajn82: Remove the paving stone and pour a real floor instead?
Isakare: Have piles of those screws in various lengths, our large wooden packaging is partially screwed together for easier opening, previously they were nailed. So, long quick screw to replace nail.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Replace the two 15-degree bends on the drainage pipe with a steeper type, like 30 or 45 degrees, to reduce the height a bit, those two 15-degree bends are probably needed for the pipe installation…
iahapp: [citat] One post is, as the drawing shows, inside the transverse wall and the other is flush against the wall (the posts are only 95x95). So, of course, we'll leave a small section of 10 cm to encase the one post.
Tomtom79: In this case, I don't think it matters much. An angle iron properly screwed into the wall in this way can bear really large loads.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Gypsum plaster won't look like the plastered surface does. I can't determine for sure if it's lightweight concrete from the pictures. But if you want to be sure, assume it's lightweight concrete, then you won't go wrong regarding which plaster to use.
mrsnhp: Now we have knocked down what came off voluntarily, inside the red markings in the picture below. I don't think we can get more off without a saw, crowbar, and force. So the question is how we patch it all up. What do we do with the cavity at the edge between tretex/wooden wall and chimney? Any ideas? And the hole for the old ventilation duct that will not be used? It was covered with tretex,
Hhallden: [citat] Aha, so it's ventilation, I have a few such holes. 👍🏻
jonaserik: It is possible to glue the ones linked to, just different mounting methods. With load-bearing rulers, the ceiling drops between 5 - 7 cm.
myrgången25: [citat] I use a sander and carefully with a plane, but it works. It just needs to be sanded down. I thought it was extremely troublesome, but not in a hurry.
Testarn: [citat] I guess this is already resolved since the question was asked five (5) years ago...
Centano: I guess it's an architectural choice.
anton1048: [citat] I understand, I'll do that! Thank you for the help 😊
mexitegel: The joint can be executed in different ways, and I believe a Gerber fitting that is also painted white will be the least visible and technically superior. [bild] [bild]
Exiljämte: Yes, set up about 50m2 of that particular model three years ago. Turned out very well and the finish hasn't deteriorated since installation. We screwed into the tongue according to the product instructions.
SysXpl: Hello! Nice forum I've been following for a couple of years. I'm new here! The slightly dramatic title is true... my girlfriend lives in Ukraine. She wants to move here but lives in a shack that needs to be sold. It may sound simple, but it's a bit complicated. Her ex-husband, when he built the house, died in 2006, so the house hasn't been 100% completed. She has a good job herself, but with the
dfgh: [citat] It turned out that I had someone in my circle of acquaintances who replaces sill plates, so it became a side job. Many years ago now. No smell in the house or on the clothes. We ditched the electric coil, and together with additional insulation, we reduced the annual consumption by 7-8k kWh.
Joak: [citat] If you're going to have plyfa/chipboard under the gypsum, you don't need noggings in between. You set a metal angle, type lp 50, under the gypsum, it becomes a very strong corner with more insulation.
fribygg: Sala under, du kan use a piece of board, OSB or masonite. I recommend regular standard plaster, renovation plaster is much harder to spackle so it looks nice.
fribygg: Haven't tried, I would recommend butyl sealing until you find a skilled plåtslagare.
neo11: Yes, your pictures don't show much. But it's not in the fireplace, so regular usage shouldn't be affected. However, I can't understand why you aren't saying what kind of mortar you're using, or your thought process. Or do you think we at byggahus should ask you when you want help?