Hello!
Does anyone know how to lay the wood floor in the "same" direction as the load-bearing 22" tongue-and-groove chipboard floor?
In all manufacturers of grooved chipboard floors, it is clearly stated that parquet should be laid across the direction of the chipboard, and that the chipboard should lie across the floor beams. In my case, this makes the wood floor aesthetically incorrectly laid.
Does anyone have any smart ideas or is it first with floor gypsum or similar under the chipboard?
Does anyone know how to lay the wood floor in the "same" direction as the load-bearing 22" tongue-and-groove chipboard floor?
In all manufacturers of grooved chipboard floors, it is clearly stated that parquet should be laid across the direction of the chipboard, and that the chipboard should lie across the floor beams. In my case, this makes the wood floor aesthetically incorrectly laid.
Does anyone have any smart ideas or is it first with floor gypsum or similar under the chipboard?
It is the floor joists that are the load-bearing elements. The primary task of the chipboard floor is to bind adjacent joists together so that they work better together. If you want to lay floorboards that run parallel to the floor joists, you must lift the chipboard and place noggings between the floor joists at a close c/c distance (type 600 mm).
Hello and thanks for the reply! 
Perhaps I should clarify, my goal is to be able to lay a Tarkett 14mm wooden floor in the direction so that it goes "along" the subfloor boards, the risk is for example that the long side joint of the parquet floor becomes parallel with a floor heating pipe.
The subfloor is laid across the joists.
Perhaps I should clarify, my goal is to be able to lay a Tarkett 14mm wooden floor in the direction so that it goes "along" the subfloor boards, the risk is for example that the long side joint of the parquet floor becomes parallel with a floor heating pipe.
The subfloor is laid across the joists.
14 or 26 mm doesn't matter, my answer is the same. If you do as you planned without kortlingar, the floor will eventually have very visible waves.
Hello!
Yes, as suspected then :/ I'm having trouble fitting the short supports since some vent pipes, etc., take up all the space. It should be noted that the floor is framed with CC30 since the span is 4400mm.
How would it work to lay floor gypsum UNDER the milled flooring?
If that would solve this issue, I would be able to easily use the floor during the construction phase without risking damage to the grooves on the flooring, and it feels wrong to lay the pipes deeper in the construction for heat distribution?
Yes, as suspected then :/ I'm having trouble fitting the short supports since some vent pipes, etc., take up all the space. It should be noted that the floor is framed with CC30 since the span is 4400mm.
How would it work to lay floor gypsum UNDER the milled flooring?
If that would solve this issue, I would be able to easily use the floor during the construction phase without risking damage to the grooves on the flooring, and it feels wrong to lay the pipes deeper in the construction for heat distribution?
Floor gypsum adds absolutely nothing, rather the opposite. Of course, c/c 300 on the floor joists changes the picture somewhat. With sufficiently wide floorboards, each board will have some part over a beam. If you screw glue a thin (12 mm) construction plywood sheet on top of the particle board, I believe you will have increased the stiffness of the subfloor enough to lay the floorboards as you intended. Additionally, the floor's resilience conditions will be improved.
Do you have any height difference between rooms to take into account or does it not matter?
I was thinking if you would install sparse panels, glued and screwed properly to the floor joists, along with floor heating plates with piping, and then have a 22mm floorboard last that is not grooved but thoroughly glued and screwed. Just another suggestion.
I was thinking if you would install sparse panels, glued and screwed properly to the floor joists, along with floor heating plates with piping, and then have a 22mm floorboard last that is not grooved but thoroughly glued and screwed. Just another suggestion.
I guess this is already resolved since the question was asked five (5) years ago...B BiggeTheKing said: