I have a staircase with carpet that I've started to remove in order to then paint the entire staircase. My problem is that our stair nosings seem to be glued and are stuck like rock. I'm now considering whether to saw or plane them off.
I tried sawing with a multi-tool but didn't get very far and the wood started to smell burnt. Would a plane work better? Or a Japanese saw? I'm wondering how best to remove the protruding part on the stair nosing from stringer to stringer.
There are probably several ways to solve it. It depends on the tool set, but I would also choose to saw with a multi-tool followed by sanding with the same, and you obviously own one. If it burns, you probably have a worn-out blade. It's also important to work with the machine so that the chips are evacuated and to try to have the blade's sides outside the cut as much as possible.
have the same problem. The stair nose needs to go down by about 4mm, and I only have a sander, chisel, and plane.
I have a multi-sander
what do I do now? Was thinking of trying with the sander directly on the "edge"???
have encountered the same problem. The stair nosing should go down about 4mm, I only have a grinder, chisel, and plane.
I have a multi-tool grinder
what do you do now? Was thinking of trying with the grinder directly on the "edge"???
My steps look more or less like in the picture
Sanding down 4 mm and making it straight and nice is of course not impossible but quite time-consuming... I would say that getting the right tools if you're going to do an entire staircase is more suitable and there's a greater chance for a successful result...
I've encountered the same problem. The stair nose needs to be lowered about 4mm and I only have a grinder, chisel, and plane.
I have a multi-sander
what do I do now? I was thinking of trying the sander directly on the "edge"???
My stair steps look more or less like in the picture
Do you have a hand router (or can you borrow one)?
Do you have a hand router (or can you borrow one)?
Hi
No, I don't have a router. The thing is that the edge is supposed to be sanded down and then it's planned to be painted white.
I've tested with my sander and it works, as well as working manually. So it shouldn't be removed. The trim is probably glued and then everything is inside the stringer. That's how the staircase was built in 1973.
Of course, this is not optimal and after a few steps I will probably think this wasn't so easy.
I was thinking that you could use an edge milling bit with a ball bearing to bring the stair nose down to the same height as the tread. But you wouldn't be able to reach all the way to the stringer.
Hi
No, I don't have a router. The thing is that the edge needs to be sanded down and then it is intended to be painted white. I've tried with my sander and it works, as well as working manually. So it shouldn't be removed. The actual trim is probably glued and then everything is inside the carriage. The staircase was built in 1973.
This is obviously not ideal and after a few steps, I'll probably think this wasn't so easy.
Buy or rent a router (preferably a small edge router that is easy to handle) and go as far as you can to the sides and then use a chisel for the last bit. If you have 15 steps to do and need to sand down both sides in oak, you will curse and damn before you're done, and the sanding paper will cost quite a bit... Another option is if you can borrow a hand planer and plane down as far as you can reach and then take the chisel in the same way.
Buy or rent a router (preferably a small edge router that's easy to handle) and go as far as you can to the sides, then use a chisel for the last bit. If you have 15 steps to do and need to sand down both sides in oak, you'll swear and curse before you're done, and the sandpaper will cost quite a bit... Another option is if you can borrow a hand plane and plane down as far as you can, then use the chisel in the same way.
I use a sander and carefully with a plane, but it works. It just needs to be sanded down. I thought it was extremely troublesome, but not in a hurry.
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