Building Materials and Construction Technology
Småbrukaren: An image would have helped. But, a door should align with the interior wall so that you can put trim there. But perhaps it's not so precise now. You should align with the stud the frame is screwed into. I assume the stud in turn aligns with the wall you screw the sheet into, but between the studs and the sheet, do you have a screw stud? That is, you need to extend the frame with the same depth as
Stefan N: Why don't you make a small box with a corresponding rounding towards the ceiling? It can be done fairly discreetly.
s97danl: The list is fastened with 3-4 alu clips on the back of the alu list you want to remove. You just need to pry it off, and it will release. Try pulling it out a bit from the top, then when there's a gap, pry it out with a screwdriver. Check the instructions. Available on the skbv website. Search for s30 original design. Same instructions regardless of optimal or Isolent.
cpalm: [citat] It's probably a considerable challenge to achieve an even and consistent mix and good control over the size of the air bubbles. It's a bit like when you need to fold whipped egg whites into a batter to make it fluffy. Everyone who's done it knows it's not just about stirring them together.
Unikt namn: It will be quite a significant intervention in the load-bearing structure when both the heart wall, chimney, and previous outer wall need to be removed. Just as well to do it properly and consult with a structural engineer on how it can be most effectively resolved.
MioMorris: [citat] Yes, I've considered that, but then thought that if one fine day (which is unlikely to happen) I want to remove this fireplace corner, then the parquet floor is undamaged underneath.
M H: Hello! I'm looking for a steel rule/rail that looks like this (15 mm deep) but is 70 mm wide instead of 45 mm. Does it exist? https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/primarregel-norgips-p45-3600mm/ There are rails like these that are 55 mm deep, but I would rather have one with the same depth as the primary rail and preferably one that is completely "straight" in the profile like the primary rail.
johnnur: [citat] That's true! Good thinking. I'm sending in samples of (what is most likely) leveling compound, grout, and plastic flooring. It would be good to know when I go to the recycling center, of course. I guess you can't label the bag "maybe asbestos" :) I just hope there won't be any sampling fees...
Chariz: [citat] We already have a building permit for the stairs. So the municipality doesn't need any documents. I saw that the engineers would charge around 15k SEK to calculate it. Since it's such a small alteration, I'm hoping someone knowledgeable here can help me.
john68: Here you have a complete spare parts port https://www.blocket.se/annons/skaraborg/car_inn_garage_port/1207088093
zarkov: How long is a piece of string? Count on at least a few thousand kronor per linear meter. The cost depends on whether the work is done from the outside or inside, what material is used, what type of foundation you have, if you hire a large or small firm, and if it is in a metropolitan area or in the countryside, etc. etc.
Johan456: That's how I would have done it. Bottningslist is available in many sizes. Buy one that is slightly larger than the gap.
vvsarn: Can update by saying I removed 1-4. The floor structure was completely stable even when a person was jumping above. Then I removed #5 and placed a support underneath. Will put up a column when it suits, for now the house is still standing...
Hästängsudd: [citat] About 3500:- /m3 but there are many variables which means you probably won't get straightforward answers from a seller. Chute or pump, the grade of concrete, unloading time, possible retarder, possible heated concrete, driving time, winter surcharge, etc., to name a few.
VLJ: I had used an adjustment screw for alignment and if the panel is to be mounted on vertical studs, I would probably have attached them directly to the timbered wall.
koolla: [citat] Yes, I was thinking that too otherwise. You can take 28x45 and split it once. The split side you put inward in the fence and in our case, there's also a hedge on the inside.
Jan Lindgren1: Hello, I am going to install a stair railing made of plumbing parts (pipes, fittings, bends, brackets ...) into a brick wall. The wall brackets have two screw holes, how should I position them best? It feels like they support the load better if screwed in vertically (they were delivered with the holes horizontal, but I might have to rotate them a quarter turn). Should I really go all out and use
Davidbagare: Yes. You need to wash off the glue with wet sponges. But it looks like you have asfaboard as the bottom layer, right? It might be easier for you to just take them down and replace them with a new base. That way, you avoid having to remove the wallpaper paste. Also, the walls from '67 might smell a bit bad, and you can check the insulation at the same time.
hedstrom: Now the inside is sorted with new studs and plasterboard on the outside, but when I removed one of the old studs inside, a fiber cement board on the outside cracked. How should I fix it? Right now it's open, so water can get in. Does anyone have a good tip? A new panel will be installed on the outside, but that will be at the earliest next summer.
Timmermannen77: Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with any company in Uppsala, but a tip is to choose a company with Swedish-speaking workers and management. Even if those who don't speak Swedish are cheaper per hour, they rarely turn out to be cheaper in the end, as there can be many misunderstandings along the way if you speak different languages.
SågspånPappspikEternit: Since you obviously have the drawing as an image file on your phone, could you please upload it in the thread? That would make it much easier to see! When you've clicked "Reply" and the writing box comes up, click on "Upload image/video," and then click "Insert," and the drawing will appear directly in the post!
Dankerz: Yes, sensible. But how do I build the form to support the ground insulation/lecakulor? Below towards the basement, there is only a vapor barrier installed with battening to mount the ceiling against. And I can't put anything flammable there either. So the battening is set a bit away from the chimney but closer than the beam. Yes, it’s the corner shown in the pictures with the long narrow
Missionshuset Roslagen: It's tongue and groove so it doesn't really matter much if it dries apart a bit after installation. But I will probably have to move it under a roof, even though I had hoped to find a way to avoid it. 😅
Birger Hansson: How do you treat a silicate paint-coated plastered wall in the basement that is to be painted with lime paint? Is full spackling an option? Some form of plaster mortar? Birger
Peter787: [citat] It's easy to make your own stringers; the picture from Beijer clearly shows the parts. The advantage of making the stringers yourself is that the staircase can follow the slope; otherwise, ready-made stringers usually have the same angle, slightly lower than 45°. Otherwise, a beam on the inside or outside works well as you yourself suggest. [bild]
Tjrex: They are not pressure-treated. It's a special glue used that surrounds each individual "spån" to prevent moisture absorption. The green color is just to differentiate from the regular one.
Dr Benz: [citat] Yep, a few times. And read it again, but I don't think it completely answers the question about the drain. I have also read before that the fold should be 50mm, but I might have misunderstood. Maybe it applies to the walls? Because I can't see how you could achieve 50 around the pipe. If that is the case...
fribygg: [citat] The one the neighbor is just replacing or the one the neighbor replaced several years ago and now wants to get rid of, you often get used clay/concrete tiles, roof sheets, or plastic sheets for free, and sometimes you can even get paid if you remove everything. What material do you have on your current roof? Wouldn't it look nice to have the same roof and panel on the shed?
TheImprovisor: [citat] Yes, if I lay according to that pattern it would work. I lay patterns where every other row's joint aligns, which I forgot to mention in my question. The boards are 120, and the little piece you see in the image is left after setting the first board. So it's quite a small roof.
Tjernström: We are renovating the entrance and will plaster the concrete foundation where the stairs will later be attached. Tips on products and techniques are gratefully received. I have plastered walls before, but not directly on concrete.