Building Materials and Construction Technology
Fasting65: As a hole saw operator, I use Biltema's. The drill has the right dimension for the holes in Hole-In-One, and the cutters haven't broken yet. Good value for a hobby builder! The chuck: 20-306 39.90 SEK The drill: 20-307 8.90 SEK The hole saw: 20-303 (75 mm) and 20-302 (85 mm) 89.90 SEK each
Pete_R: I should probably add that "just to be safe" I used plyfa under the hard plasterboards in the living room, but the soundproofing also played a role in the context... :o
Ed: Hello!! I am going to make recessed sauna thermometers, hygrometers. Now to my question... How much distance should there be between the board (with the recessed thermometer, hygrometer) and the sauna wall?? There should be some distance in between so the air can circulate... A quick answer would be great, a Christmas gift for my dad... ;)
Fasting65: Check out optiroc's (now called maxit) serporoc system - www.maxit.se. Click on "Puts och Fasad", then click through there and read everything you can... How to do it in practice can be viewed on our web. Also see the image below - taken from the diary, August 2003. [bild] ps. it's mineral wool, not fiberglass. the price - 303 kr including VAT for the material/sqm I paid. What's really expensive
sotarn: [citat] Your answer is probably in the ballpark of what I was considering, I am willing to give between 10-12000 SEK for the job including materials.
Gutte: Koho11: The color of the plaster was developed by the company that sprayed the facade. They sprayed a small section and then we got to say if we wanted it lighter or darker. So they didn't use pre-colored plaster; instead, they mixed it with plaster and lime. We could have gotten pre-colored plaster according to the NCS number, but we chose to do something "unique" instead. And it turned out
betula: You can expect that a properly dried oak plank will shrink a maximum of 4 mm in width and swell a maximum of 2 mm in late summer. The thickness is not significantly affected. If you keep the tendency to warp down with sliding strips or movable screws, it works well. Even better is using timber with vertical growth rings, as these only move half as much in width and have no tendency to warp. The
zankan: I would probably say that the toilet is nice to soundproof... And the kitchen.. A lot of background noise comes from the kitchen. And Gromit, metal studs that can be shaped so well, and the idea that it would be easier to build with wood, I don't buy. It's no coincidence that 90% of all walls in construction consist of metal studs, right? It's faster, slightly better sound reduction, at least as
grefven: Hey, I saw someone claim that it's difficult for sawmills to process large logs. I know this sawmill, which is privately owned and manages its own purchases, gladly buys thicker pine root logs. Purchase area Småland-Värmland. http://www.ansgariussvenssonab.se/swe_main.asp?id=8
cubix: Look at previous questions here in the forum. There is a lot of useful information.
NordiCs: We've just got the exterior walls of the house in place and now I'm thinking about what to do with the basement walls. The walls are built with aerated concrete blocks in the same size as leca blocks. Now I'm wondering if it's enough to skim coat the walls before painting or wallpapering them. Or do I need to plaster them? Another thing, what is the difference between plaster mortar and
cubix: Read the latest issue of "Gör så här," where there was an interesting article.
byggherreNR1: After being involved in construction for a couple of years now, I've realized how much you can haggle if you buy slightly larger quantities of material and plan well in advance. I have teamed up with my sister, father, and a friend. Through this, we have received much lower prices, the suppliers are much more accommodating, and the leftover material we've been able to exchange among ourselves. A
AndersG: The funny thing is that waterborne underfloor heating is cheaper in concrete slabs than in wood. In our house, we have it embedded in the basement and entry level. The floor in v2 is wood with underfloor heating in deflector plates. See: http://www.wirsbo.se/ifs/files/Wirsbo/swe/Presentation/Website/Produkter/Golvvxrme/Golvvxrme.jsp
zankan: More important is the wall dimension... And "There are two large arches in it and it is not reinforced but just framed in the usual way and covered with chipboard." is hmmm load-bearing structure R30 let's hope so, chipboard doesn't seem serious... the wall should be at least 145 mm and contain 2 gypsum, 95 frame, 2 gypsum, alternative is 1 layer of gypsum replaced with a layer of ply or osb
norrifran: The iron beam is placed as extra support for the denser framework and so that it does not fall through directly in case of a fire, for example (the beam can support a weight of 2 tons). The foundation will probably be cast in concrete, or a plate will be placed on top of the framework with the iron beam in the middle. I hope this will work. Best regards, N
MathiasS: but next time, make sure to use a REAL breathing mask (not one of those paper cups with rubber bands) and feel free to use a spray bottle to moisten and reduce the dust (not everyone in the room may have a mask). You probably won't feel bad from this, either now or later, but someone should give your supervisor a proper kick in the backside.
Norre: Place the frame in the right position in the opening, secure with two 4" nails. One in each corner in the screw holes. So that the frame doesn't fall. Level the g-side and top. Shim the door. Tighten. Attach the door and fine-tune it. DONE! Is the frame already in place and you don't want to reset it? Then, as the man above said, it's time to bring out the "knäckar'n." Doesn't work? Maybe you
dymlingen: I first built a floating dock but got tired of it being so unstable. It was 4x4 m and rested on 8 blue plastic barrels. Maybe the flotation blocks are better. This year I cut off the barrels and placed it on four large concrete pipes (about 60cm dia). We'll see if it remains until spring or if the ice has knocked over the pipes. The forces in the ice are incredible.
Bob_the_builder: Well, I didn't dare to take a chance, so I went with joint tape. The dealer will probably have to deliver a few extra boards if they run out... ;)
moonrocket: Sure, I found that link too, but thanks anyway! It would be fun to hear from 'regular' people as well about their experiences with stepkit; Timell is usually (maybe rightly so) very satisfied with his works.... :)
valter53: Have a builder make the foundation and erect the frame with roof trusses. The rest you can do yourself if you have done some carpentry before. When I expanded 10 years ago, I did it this way. You must have access to the crawl space. Alternative: An opening from the outside or make a hole in the existing foundation. Good luck Torsten
LennartL: If they exist I do not know, have never seen them ... but you can buy tracks and hanging rollers for a sliding door at Jula, and then build yourself (a hanging-sliding-door requires fewer adjustments and is normally easy to build, but not one like this with all the glass :o), so the alternative is to have a custom carpenter build it, I guess.
jedj: Thank you, it turned out to be gothenburg oak (almost knot-free) for 349:- per sqm, quite okay at mattvaruhuset!
Hero2: I have bought a split-level house built in '74. During the inspection, moisture was discovered in the insulation in the floor of the rec room. We managed to reduce the price of the house quite a bit because of this and have been recommended to use the Nivell system instead of the wooden joists that are currently directly on the slab. My questions are: 1. Is the Nivell system the best option or is
Thor-Sten: Hi! I completely agree with "Lurvnos"! Epoxy is the way to go! Definitely avoid PL400, which is colored and adds height, meaning the joint will be much too visible. If you have trouble finding slow-curing epoxy, I can recommend Nordells, which sells knife materials. (http://nordellknives.com) They have an excellent American slow-curing epoxy glue. (I've used it myself and am more than satisfied!)