Building Materials and Construction Technology
Framerate: Hey ho... I almost decided on Isodrän. My latest reasoning is based on: ...if you insulate on the outside, nothing is needed on the inside. Then you get a warm basement wall that transports indoor air moisture from the warm wall to the Isodrän. The dew point then ends up in the wall, near the outside. If you reverse it and only insulate inside, it should mean that the dew point ends up deeper
Framerate: There is another variant that I know some house suppliers switch to: http://www.combimix.se/documents/00082.pdf This one feels clearly more robust with a solid layer of plaster on a well-anchored cellplast without glue. Does anyone have experience with this??
Frippen: The only thing available from the municipality about the house is remodeling plans from an extension in 1953, which unfortunately do not tell much about the house's construction otherwise. But with some advice and eventually a structural engineer on site, we hope to figure out which walls need to be load-bearing. I've tried to find literature about this type of house, which is not entirely
kalleanka70: Draven...look under the STONE HOUSE category, there is a lot about aerated concrete. The cheapest you buy from Poland today. The company Xella owns the YTONG brand. www.xella.pl or www.xella.de if you don't know Polish ;).
MrMagic: Building with aerated concrete blocks and then simply plastering is a very good solution. Good insulation values, completely homogeneous wall, no condensation or moisture problems, in case of water damage you can just dry it out again.... The only downside I've seen is that if the plaster is thin on the outside, you can see the pattern of the blocks in rainy weather. Could possibly be due to
Hässleskog: We have looked at windows but have yet to reach an answer on whether it's worth the 'trouble' to bring them home from Poland. It seems difficult to find triple-glazed windows that meet our Swedish requirements. However, there is a supplier you can find at this link which might be interesting - http://www.scanwin.pl/cennik.php Prices etc. are available on the site but only in Polish. There is also
mrx: I have built a garage from scratch. I've purchased most of the materials at Byggmax and K-rauta. I have to say that Byggmax has very good prices on all the "small items" like screws, nails, handles, gutters, downspouts, and such. The lumber is also cheap, but there is less difference there. Bauhaus is very expensive on smaller items, but they have certain lure items where they are very cheap. You
Calle_L: Save: How are you handling the untreated staircase? We have also ordered an untreated staircase with risers and plan to lacquer it white and stain the steps in oak style. How were you planning to do with the staircase, lacquer??? glaze???. Considering sending it in for lacquering before installation but haven't checked the price yet.
MathiasS: If it is a non-load-bearing wall you are building, I see no problem with placing it on the floor gypsum.
windy22: The price is relatively low, and you get a robust impact-resistant exterior. However, note that they are very difficult to handle as the longest ones weigh around 700 kg each, requiring a crane or similar equipment when positioning/adjusting them. You also first adjust the beams and then fill up the inside to the correct height for the insulation thickness you plan to use.
Scout: Didn't watch the program but if it's about outdoor stairs, Bauhaus had it in pressure-treated wood last summer. Unfortunately, they had set the blocks incorrectly with the wood fibers facing upwards. Even though the steps cover most of it, there's still a gap where moisture/rain goes directly down. Since I am a lazy person, I bought two anyway, which I then covered with plastic before the steps
MathiasS: I don't know, I couldn't get to my usual supplier either so it didn't matter. Also, I don't think they stock a large variety of friggo.
styrman1: Here is a really good link! http://www.moelventoreboda.se/index.asp?menuItem=L9 There you can calculate for yourself what type of glulam beam or kerto for that matter.
OlaF: Wow, it sounds really cool to be able to bend plasterboards that way. Definitely a useful tip and worth trying when we build our "crazy bathroom" with a curved wall and sloped ceiling... probably a few kilos of filler :) I couldn't quite make out if special plasterboards are required or if it works with regular ones. /Ola
Immobil: [citat] We use Windy, as you can see on the website. I find it easy to work with and strong. 1 roll 2.74 x 62.5 m cost us 1,573.50. ;)
poppgubben: It is a special product that is widely used down in Europe. Nalen in Stockholm is made with this by Larsson & Örnmark's painting company. Check with them.... I believe that Caparol also has products for this, but they are probably not in stock. Good luck :)
ama: Try calling Timber Trading or another large timber wholesaler/importer and check how you can get it imported; it shouldn't be impossible even if you have to go through your local building market or timber company. Timber company might actually be a better choice, the ones I have visited seem to have a better understanding than the building markets on how to find unusual things. The thing is to
MrMagic: What quality is standard for a Villaplatta? Should one have a different quality under reinforcements at, for example, supports for beams, etc.?
Norre: if the possibility exists, I would definitely choose to nail it with a brad
Kruger: Considering installing PAROC wind protection on the facade under the cladding as wind protection. Comes in large formats so it covers almost the entire facade in height :-* Would greatly appreciate your experiences, opinions, and price information on this product!
Hans_Nordstrand: Hello! I am also in the process of moving a timber house, from Insjön to Ljusterö north of Stockholm. I plan to do almost all the work myself. For the foundation, it will probably be natural stone under the corners and beneath them concrete posts down to frost-free depth. This foundation method is described in the book "Flyttning av gamla hus" from Gysinge byggnadsvårdscentrum. Later, you can
casado: Hi, In an earlier thread, there was a tip about a company in Estonia, ARTIKA Trepid (www.artika.ee). They have a very nice website with really stylish oak staircases. I have written to them several times in English but haven't received any response. Has anyone been in contact with them? The prices they quote are super interesting so I really want to get in touch with them but my Estonian is
ab-cd: [citat] Nope, didn't see that you were going to have OSB under the plasterboard.
MathiasS: There is a thread about this. I talked to a fastener theorist this summer about it. Search! EDIT: I must be in a good mood today: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Isolering;action=display;num=1087120029;start=8#8 EDIT again: I read so quickly that I didn't see we were talking about floor joists. Why should they be fastened so much? Hopefully, they won't fall down...... :=)
hempularen: 10 times the money sounds a bit exaggerated, I needed a glass wall for the shower in the summer house, and I got prices from the glazier for about 2000 for a piece measuring 60x200 cm including fittings, strips, etc. that were needed. I thought it was too expensive for the summer house. However, a bathroom company wanted about 7000 for the same piece. I made a simpler (and uglier) solution.
Bokholmen: Weird comparison with the car.....I think.... I wouldn't buy any car that I knew emitted crap... Of course, at least I look at what safety features a car has when I choose a car.... I definitely don't mean that I'm overly safety-conscious but moderation is probably best....