Building Materials and Construction Technology
CarMan: [citat] I have an inner door in dough & it is the one I want to remove. but one could say that it's like day and night when it is closed or not though it might not get worse than today. I have an outer door that consists of 40% glass (good old single glazing) & then an inner door that consists of 80% glass :-X
bo: In the short term, the timber price may drop slightly, but after a few years, the price will rise.
GoForIt: Thanks for all the tips! I will soon embark on a record. I plan to sacrifice a piece on a record to test out the best result with your suggested recommendations.
mikael72: Don't really know where this question belongs, but I'll try here. We have a tiled balcony where the moisture barrier is no longer what it should be due to frost damages, etc. We removed a roof over the balcony before we realized how bad the moisture barrier was. Then it started raining and raining and raining... Now the moisture has penetrated the wall, resulting in wallpaper peeling, and the
Fasting65: With insulation in the walls, you avoid the guitar-case sound when someone hits the wall. It becomes more of a muted *foopph* instead of *bommmmmmmmm*. As for the actual soundproofing properties, I dare not say anything. It's just as important to ensure a tight seal between floor-wall and ceiling-wall.
MathiasS: This is what they are called, I have now learned: http://www.kgcverktyg.se/v2/showpage.asp?page=lux_1
VONBRAUN: The risk of it bulging inward is present regardless of which wind deflector you choose. You must be careful when setting up the fabric in this case. There is a batten in the middle of the rafter and one on each side of the rafter. Then, of course, it's important to be cautious when insulating. That applies to the cardboard version too. Masonite has the advantage that it is easier to insulate once
pont: Hello! Can anyone answer what you have to pay for paving stones like Bender Labyrint Antik in Poland? http://www.benders.se/mark/produkter/labyrintantik.asp?bild=01 Maybe even know some good companies in the Gdansk area?! /P
xztraz: Okay, not as moisture-resistant as I thought then. A minireit board is probably the best board option to put up then... but they are just so expensive... I think I'll build a little wall section there instead. I have a large stack of bricks lying around, and mortar is cheap. Thanks for the info.
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] It's an idea that has occurred to me as well.. I'm leaning towards that solution... As long as I maintain the basic concept... We'll see.. ;-)
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] I'm not confident to answer about condensation, it's not my area. Since platon is placed externally, the water situation from outside is the same, regardless of regular blocks or isoblocks.
morsan: Bilglascentralen, Aröds industrial area (Hisingen) does it...
Linska: http://www.bta.se/Kakel_&_Klinker.htm Though it might be a bit far to Åre...
cy_berg: TN: Thanks for the tip, I completely agree with you! The company we are in contact with has done work on the houses around us that are from the same era, so I hope that ensures good knowledge. As you say, special knowledge about old houses is required; there can be problems using too many modern methods on old houses.
siamthai: [citat] It should not be necessary. The insulation provided by the glass concrete is quite sufficient. There is also special glass concrete used for outer walls. If I'm not mistaken, they have a vacuum in them, which makes them insulate better.
Draven: 45mm insulation and air gap, you mean, what would your wall look like? Isoleca-air gap-45mm-plasterboard? A guy who sells Isoleca blocks didn't understand why I would want to insulate further and claimed that the risk of moisture increases significantly, so the question is how to proceed... It would be great to be able to listen inside and outside the room before it's built.. :-/ The ceiling is
frasse: Sure they do ;) http://www.pondussnickeri.a.se/faner.html
hempularen: Remove the eternit yourself. Just make sure you have a good respiratory mask when doing it. And it might be a good idea not to let the clothes come into the house afterward. Also, check where you can dispose of the tiles (they should be packed in plastic bags while you're wearing protection). In many municipalities, you can "household dispose" a small amount at no cost.
Magnus_Nordmark: Contact a structural engineer so that nothing goes wrong. And the expression "balka av" is something I've never heard before... ::)
Schwingen: [citat] Why complicate things with studs and plasterboard??? Why not cut channels in the wall for electricity, plaster, seal, and tile.
Immobil: Favorite in rerun: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1089194696 ;)
flakaeric: To Magnelito. What is the most stylish is a matter of taste, but it is probably most common to use morapanel, pärlspont, etc., as it gives the ceiling more life.
Ms_IT-Nisse: It's quite smooth to apply plaster+fiberglass (for wet rooms)+paint with wet room paint. ;D
Framerate: We will be building with regular non-insulated 29 cm lecablock, with a 10 cm insulated inner wall and 5 cm of foam plastic on the outside as a carrier for sto-plaster. Against the ground there will be 10 cm of isodrän. I think it should turn out well. The walls will be around 45 cm thick after all. Or... :-/