Building Materials and Construction Technology
Framerate: Oh well! Soon you can't read newspapers anymore because they almost only sell on people's fears or hopes. What is dangerous one day is beneficial the next, the headline "Your obesity can be good for you" I thought was a low point a few months ago in a well-known newspaper. All facades have their problems. Plaster can mold, plaster can crack, brick can freeze and break, wood can rot, and you get
stenhus05: We have received quotes from several constructors ranging from 350-750:-/hour. Unfortunately, we can't recommend anyone yet since we haven't seen the results. I can't imagine it taking more than a few hours for a skilled constructor to calculate your wall. (construction drawings for our entire house take 2 weeks) Any structural engineering firm should be able to make such a calculation. Best
skuggan: I'm quite sure I saw it at Coop when I was running around there a couple of days ago. However, I don't know what it cost there.
Bokholmen: I've been in the same situation as you. Generally speaking, I don't think there's a big difference in quality but rather a difference in what the stores mark up. In my case, it has often been the case that where they sell cheap tiles, they have been expensive with adhesive, grout, etc.
Gutte: If you have an attic in the house, it's perfect to route the telephone cable that way. That's what we've done, and we will also route the TV cable through the attic. (Today it also goes through a window frame). Keep in mind if you have plaster over the brick, to vacuum while you drill. If you have light plaster and, for example, red brick underneath, the drilling dust might unfortunately stain
zankan: [citat] Yeah, but 10% to pick out good pieces feels like a bit of a "waste of time", I'd rather buy it without searching. One or another twisted piece doesn't make much difference. You can always straighten out such wide pieces.....
abel48: Thanks will go to Coop Forum and check it out then. It cost 2890:- there. Good price. Best regards, Anders
a4wils: Hello, I have quite a bit of experience with Hornbach in Gothenburg after several construction projects. The pricing varies. They are generally cheaper than Bauhaus, but often Clas Ohlson, Jula, or Coop Forum are cheaper. Their price guarantee doesn't mean they are the cheapest (warning!). Additionally, it is difficult to compare (their idea) because they often have their own brands (see below).
dadid: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=verktyg;action=display;num=1106731852;start=0]Tools and Machines[/link] by Marlene Eskilsson.
Strisak: Got some advice on this elsewhere. The glass blocks should be installed last. That is, the work of waterproofing the area, laying tiles, and grouting should be done first. According to my source, a gluing is the most stable method. There is a type of plastic rail used between wall and glass block, and between glass blocks. No lintel was needed then to make the structure more stable, it should
Snickarkungen: If you're going to have underfloor heating, fiber-reinforced is probably recommended, considering the tensions that arise in the floor...
houseless: I am very interested in Hedared! Waiting for a quote from them... and would really like to hear more info from those of you with experience with Hedared S&B. Thanks in advance :)
bogaboga: Have called around to some here in the vicinity, got a price of 275kr/hour + assistant for about 100 kr/hour. Sounds quite reasonable, now I just need to try to get someone to drive it away... Gladly accepting more tips and opinions! ;) Best regards Tobbe
Strisak: Would probably not have chosen wood as a base. It is not sturdy enough for the glass = joint cracking. Leca will be good.
Niq: Then ask what they do with it at the dump. I got the answer that they chip it and put it in the municipality's flower beds.
snickarboden: Since it doesn't concern a damp environment, I would have used regular white PVAC exterior adhesive. If the surfaces are clean, it holds extremely well. PU glue is better but in a floor joist, it feels like it doesn't matter, as it is not exposed to water to justify it. /Kent
terp: [citat] That was a good idea! Even if I'm not planning to plaster over the boxes, I had thought about in-case-we-ever-get the boxes covered with wallpaper.
zankan: There are similar materials like Cemwood and minerit which are priced around 500 bucks per slab roughly, gypsum is around 50 or so.... don't think the dB gain versus price is worth it... and the acoustic mass works
gaia: Old-fashioned plastering was done slightly differently (without plasterboard or Styrofoam). Often something was nailed up that could support the plaster, like chicken wire or straw matting on the boards, and lime plaster was used. Lime plaster is not so rigid and can work well with the movement of the boards but, of course, cannot handle too large settlements. Regarding the fine and coarse
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] Hehe, yes, it costs to stay on top.. ;-) I know Bovalls has expensive doors, but they are well-designed and handcrafted items, good quality...
zankan: I unfortunately can't answer that. But check with a local high-quality building supply store, not Buildmax, Bauhaus, or those, but go for a bigger one... Like Beijer or something. You could probably also inquire with companies that handle doors; there are a few... However, I can't mention the name of any as I don't have any...
Ubbe: Many sawmills still use classes I => V for qualities. The sorting rules define things like the number and size of knots, wane, rot, pith, black knot, resinous material, straightness, etc., etc. At my old workplace, a sawmill, 1-7 was used. 1 is the best and 7 is the worst. 1=knot-free, without pith and wane. 7=waste My assessment of what you find at the lumberyards is about class V, i.e.,
Haagbard: [citat] http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=bvard;action=display;num=1106118324 There came the price for quarter sawn flooring, so the floors I laid alone would cost ~30,000 SEK to buy! For heaven's sake, go out and buy windfalls, a golden opportunity to build cheaply with self-sawn timber.....here barely a single tree was blown down :(
hajof70: Well, without being a pro at it: It somewhat depends on how the surface looks today?! If it's a "torn" surface, I've personally had trouble making it look nice. If you knock off the loose parts and fill in with new plaster and scrape off with a trowel or sponge (the latter to get a smoother surface), it's easy to scratch the surrounding, old area. I would probably apply a thin, thin layer over
quality: Hello everyone, In my search for reasonable prices on electrical materials (it’s ridiculously expensive in Denmark due to their unique socket standard), I have found a webshop in Germany that also delivers to Sweden. They have a large selection of Jung and Gira, as well as good prices on installation materials (at least in relation to Denmark). http://www.elektroland24.de/ Best regards, Magnus
MathiasS: [citat] That's the recommendation I've also received from a municipality's environmental office. Either throw it in the lake or bury it in the yard. It's probably not as crazy as it sounds.
Hässleskog: Those of you who have asked about prices: I have seen everything from 200 SEK and up (at OBI, Praktiker, or Castorama - non-negotiated prices). As I see it, I get much more for the money if I choose to buy a door in Poland for 600 SEK instead of for 1000 SEK in Sweden... But the question was - does anyone know if it causes any problems to buy doors in Poland? Is there a European norm (standard)
ClasseClas: Be cautious with the supply air vents if you have an exhaust air heat pump. The vents can transmit a fair amount of noise/sound from outside... There are special vents with soundproofing, for example from Fresh, http://www.fresh.se EDIT: direct link, http://www.fresh.se/p15281/files/F90.pdf
Joar: But Biltema also has wet room silicone, but for 45 pix! check out http://www.biltema.se/products/product.asp?iItemId=24601