Building Materials and Construction Technology
Niq: Then ask what they do with it at the dump. I got the answer that they chip it and put it in the municipality's flower beds.
snickarboden: Since it doesn't concern a damp environment, I would have used regular white PVAC exterior adhesive. If the surfaces are clean, it holds extremely well. PU glue is better but in a floor joist, it feels like it doesn't matter, as it is not exposed to water to justify it. /Kent
terp: [citat] That was a good idea! Even if I'm not planning to plaster over the boxes, I had thought about in-case-we-ever-get the boxes covered with wallpaper.
zankan: There are similar materials like Cemwood and minerit which are priced around 500 bucks per slab roughly, gypsum is around 50 or so.... don't think the dB gain versus price is worth it... and the acoustic mass works
gaia: Old-fashioned plastering was done slightly differently (without plasterboard or Styrofoam). Often something was nailed up that could support the plaster, like chicken wire or straw matting on the boards, and lime plaster was used. Lime plaster is not so rigid and can work well with the movement of the boards but, of course, cannot handle too large settlements. Regarding the fine and coarse
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] Hehe, yes, it costs to stay on top.. ;-) I know Bovalls has expensive doors, but they are well-designed and handcrafted items, good quality...
zankan: I unfortunately can't answer that. But check with a local high-quality building supply store, not Buildmax, Bauhaus, or those, but go for a bigger one... Like Beijer or something. You could probably also inquire with companies that handle doors; there are a few... However, I can't mention the name of any as I don't have any...
Ubbe: Many sawmills still use classes I => V for qualities. The sorting rules define things like the number and size of knots, wane, rot, pith, black knot, resinous material, straightness, etc., etc. At my old workplace, a sawmill, 1-7 was used. 1 is the best and 7 is the worst. 1=knot-free, without pith and wane. 7=waste My assessment of what you find at the lumberyards is about class V, i.e.,
Haagbard: [citat] http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=bvard;action=display;num=1106118324 There came the price for quarter sawn flooring, so the floors I laid alone would cost ~30,000 SEK to buy! For heaven's sake, go out and buy windfalls, a golden opportunity to build cheaply with self-sawn timber.....here barely a single tree was blown down :(
hajof70: Well, without being a pro at it: It somewhat depends on how the surface looks today?! If it's a "torn" surface, I've personally had trouble making it look nice. If you knock off the loose parts and fill in with new plaster and scrape off with a trowel or sponge (the latter to get a smoother surface), it's easy to scratch the surrounding, old area. I would probably apply a thin, thin layer over
quality: Hello everyone, In my search for reasonable prices on electrical materials (it’s ridiculously expensive in Denmark due to their unique socket standard), I have found a webshop in Germany that also delivers to Sweden. They have a large selection of Jung and Gira, as well as good prices on installation materials (at least in relation to Denmark). http://www.elektroland24.de/ Best regards, Magnus
MathiasS: [citat] That's the recommendation I've also received from a municipality's environmental office. Either throw it in the lake or bury it in the yard. It's probably not as crazy as it sounds.
Svedalahem: Those of you who have asked about prices: I have seen everything from 200 SEK and up (at OBI, Praktiker, or Castorama - non-negotiated prices). As I see it, I get much more for the money if I choose to buy a door in Poland for 600 SEK instead of for 1000 SEK in Sweden... But the question was - does anyone know if it causes any problems to buy doors in Poland? Is there a European norm (standard)
ClasseClas: Be cautious with the supply air vents if you have an exhaust air heat pump. The vents can transmit a fair amount of noise/sound from outside... There are special vents with soundproofing, for example from Fresh, http://www.fresh.se EDIT: direct link, http://www.fresh.se/p15281/files/F90.pdf
Joar: But Biltema also has wet room silicone, but for 45 pix! check out http://www.biltema.se/products/product.asp?iItemId=24601
egge: Yesterday I bought boards measuring 1200x2400 for 60 bucks each at Silvan, which breaks down to 20 bucks per square meter. Other dimensions then gradually increased in price.
NGT: For Polish windows, you can contact www.city-country. se They probably only have plastic at the moment, but they look very good and have a better k (u)-value than wooden windows. In addition, they make them to order, and that's how most things with windows work in Poland, so if you don't want to travel back and forth with the outrageously expensive ferry, you'll "save" by shopping and ordering in
NGT: Check with www.city-country.se, they import building materials from Poland and also facilitate contacts for e.g., tiles and the best part is they also arrange the shipping to Sweden as well!
bygganders: Uffff...expensive...87:- m2 Considering masonite 12:-/m2 and 24:- /m2 for asfan... Makes over 6000 :- in difference... on 70 m2.... Will probably go with asfan... Thanks for the tip though...:) Anders
lob: Hi I went to the municipality's Environment and Health Protection Office and borrowed a Gamma radiation meter. If it reacts wildly, you're supposed to proceed with a proper radon measurement. The humor in the situation was that when I looked at my Lättbetong house, I brought the meter with me to the viewing. I lowered the sensitivity outdoors (different scales) so that it only "crackled" a
Mjölnaren: Certainly not worth it as it becomes bulky & thus extremely expensive shipping 8) Unless you buy so much that it fills up a full load on a truck ;)
Gutte: How is it easiest to fasten in aerated concrete? Nail or screw? I am going to put trim around my new exterior door. The problem is that there was an old frame with double doors before (one that opened out and one that opened in), so it will be a trim that is 130mm. The wall where the trim is to be attached is very uneven. Any good tips along the way???
arnel: I have used pallet spacers that I bought at Beijer. They are plastic blocks about 4x8 cm, available in different thicknesses of 1, 5, and 10 mm. I have also tried using steel studs, like a secondary profile. I will probably use that next time. And just to be clear, no wooden studs against concrete in a basement. -- ArneL
Vedklabben: We are considering extending the house with an expansion of approximately 10 square meters on a gable. The house is a typical wooden house with concrete tiles, etc., and is built on a crawl space foundation. The house was built in 1988. When the new room is extended, it will be like a box built against the existing external wall. We are thinking of recessing wardrobes into this external wall that
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] No idea, but as I mentioned, it's real quality and design through and through, and that costs. But give them a call, the trio of women who own the company are nice! //Magnus
fooney: One understands they have probably experienced cable stops a few times... the hose tends to get flattened...
zankan: [citat] Door frames and sheet metal work with special screws if you don't use special door studs that are available; you can make these yourself as follows. To get it awesome.... 1) Attach your metal stud 22 mm from the place where the door should be. 2) One layer of gypsum now stretches across the door and the whole thing. You run continuously here. Sure, there will be waste, but it won't be a
dymlingen: I saw a panel at a construction site that looked like a plywood board with white gravel on it. Looks like a regular plastered wall from a little distance. Might be something for my garage in barn style. Anyone know the brand? How do you cut such a panel? I assume the saw will get dull?