Building Materials and Construction Technology
zankan: [citat] 'those work okay... I am, however, ridiculously fond of classic programs that outperform most when it comes to door/window installation...
pleximaster: I am planning to cast a "floating" slab on a bed of leca balls in a room where I have removed an old slab made on a filled-in torpar foundation (see my skeleton thread in other.). How thick does it need to be and what type of reinforcement do I need? I was thinking of using rot bruk type. Has anyone done something similar? Best regards, plexi
andreasimner: I would have liked to do it...if I had the time. Considering making one last effort before I sign any "work order" and getting a quote from a craftsman who just does the job + surrounding materials, and I buy the doors. Then, for example, I can order from Skånska Byggmaterial (or whatever they were called)
andreasimner: A company will come now to calculate it and provide a quote...we will see what it comes to.
Framerate: Brick is number ONE. It must be the most maintenance-free material of all? But it depends greatly on the house model if it is the most beautiful option. The difference between mossy and cozy can be very subtle. I think so. Check if the brickwork extends up to the gable peaks, otherwise it falls short, in my opinion. The gable peaks are the trickiest part to paint on a wooden house. I have an
kibba: Joints on Norre: PU (polyurethane adhesive) is extremely strong, but must be kept under substantial pressure to prevent expansion. However, when used correctly, it becomes stronger than the wood itself (I know from experience when I've glued incorrectly and tried to retract... ;) ) I never use anything other than PU adhesive these days, and would definitely use it if I were to glue together stair
Fiander: Another option is to wrap the handrail with leather straps.
muppen: do not leave any space if you want to get 3-4 mm later, if you separate them from the start the gap will be bigger. 8)
DragonLady: How far from the wall must a flue coming up from the floor below be? Must this wall be fire-rated or does this only apply behind the stove on the ground floor?
henrik_R: Check out www.chl.chalmers.se/~lind/research/katrin.pdf Got a quote from Besta when I was planning my construction Seems really simple but I still chose loose timber
styrman1: Where in Stockholm? Visit some building stores and request a quote. Are you going to replace both the roofing felt and battens at the same time? Include that in the same quote.
sybrig: Check out www.thulica.com they might have a good solution? You can also call them, they are very helpful! They have different solutions for slopes, 'dry and wet'. Look!
Tomtebo: Does anyone know if there is an impregnated wood board similar to chipboard or plywood that can withstand being underwater?
koho11: My 170 m2 cost approximately 400 SEK/m2 including oil and stainless steel nails. I have tongue-and-groove paneling. Shiplap paneling is somewhat cheaper.
Delprotes: [citat] Ok, yes this is entirely correct. Wet gypsum is hazardous to health as an unpleasant fungus (stachybotrys atra) tends to live on the gypsum paper. Best regards
Immobil: 8) It's usually called facade sheet metal. Mostly used for agricultural buildings, workshops, etc. Not completely maintenance-free either. :P
Immobil: The simplest version is perforated masonite that you attach to a framework (22 x 45). :D
janix: Hi, I've checked the forum, now I hope someone knows where we should turn to as we are interested in this floor plan + architecture. But Onsalavillan only builds in Gothenburg, we have been in contact with a company in Stockholm, but the budget needs to be thinned out a bit more to meet our budget. http://www.onsalavillan.se/villa.asp?id=20&typ=1_2 hope someone can help us. We are going to
NordiCs: Good question, it's probably hard to answer if you haven't seen the room. My father is currently building a bathroom with a sloped ceiling, and the room is also about 3x3m and the ceiling slopes from about 2.20 to 2.50. He's going to tile the whole bathroom, but I don't think it will look strange, rather I believe it will become a "fun" detail in the bathroom. But it might be different if there's
MrMagic: If you need to attach to hollow bricks, you will probably need those sleeves; otherwise, you'll go through a lot of anchor compound, and it's expensive as gold! Alternatively, you might be able to use a nut and washer on the inside of the threaded rod. You can recess it and then plaster over it if it's visible on the inside.... Otherwise, there are pretty good plastic plugs that can be used, the
PeterF: You screw with a special drywall screw that is meant for metal studs. Track and stud are connected with the drywall screw. Special tool? What do you mean then?
fremag: Hmm, that link didn't work so I'm pasting the content: Ordering a container When you need to order a container for bulky or electrical waste, contact one of the contractors that the Waste Management Department has procured and approved. Apelns Express AB, tel. 08 - 447 14 70 Hellstens Grovsopor AB, tel. 08 - 86 03 10 IL Recycling AB, tel. 08 - 514 201 60 Liselotte Lööf AB, tel. 08 - 728 32 80
MrMagic: If you need parts in Skåne, I might be able to help, I have some pallets lying around. I could consider exchanging with spirorör 100-125-160-200.
JanneH: Then we're both a little lost then ;-). But thanks for the information, it still gives a hint. Janne
MathiasS: Now it starts to sound like Eternit causes cancer just by looking at it. Why do these threads always end like this? An Eternit sheet that has been moved from its place on the wall to a car is completely harmless, regardless of whether it is in a bag or not. IT DOES NOT DUST and is therefore COMPLETELY HARMLESS. As long as you don't break the sheet, Eternit boards are no more dangerous than a bag
Hobbit: Hello, a friend is going to build with Ytong and is wondering where one can currently purchase these clever things in Gothenburg and the surrounding area. Any ideas anyone? Regards Hobbit