Building Materials and Construction Technology
Fasting65: The width can be anything depending on which saw you bought from. For us, the new smooth tongue and groove worked perfectly with our old subfloor from 1937. http://www.fasting65.se/byggdagbok/dagboken/04_juni/06-15/web/IMG_3350.jpg However, the tongue and groove differed a little bit. Note: Keep in mind that subfloors often consist of spruce (fewer knots, rounder knots, and fewer black knots).
Arlington_Cowgirl: I have been searching the internet for prices on garage doors, but there seem to be few that have them on their websites. Does anyone know where you can find rolling doors/folding doors at a good price? I'm also on the lookout for interior doors. They should be quite modern and sleek. Any tips?
sealc: Thanks for the answers! The reason I want to build preferably without load-bearing crossbeams, etc., is that the space under the bed will house the computer, which means a lot of cables, and then a beam can seem aggressive for those who don't watch out. Maybe a couple of horizontally lying thin (a few mm) metal rods could relieve the chipboard, even though they are not load-bearing themselves?
Langbein: Harsher weather is coming in the future even here. In the disaster, I thought I could see that what remains are "stone houses" and I'm reminded of our standard with standing planks, pitiful plastered wooden houses that burn easily and are unlikely to withstand harsh weather. Is the new standard better with panels or are more brick houses needed?
spacebot: Request a quote from various building supply stores. They deliver to your home. For example, Angereds Bygg etc.
fooney: Okay, you mean the part leading into the meter cabinet... I know that in the municipality where I live, the power supplier always handles that part... and today they run 4*10/10 which shouldn't be forgotten. Even if you are responsible for both the cable and the digging yourself, it will be the same connection fee... so it doesn't really matter :P
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] Exactly, you should reason your way, it's almost always best that way! Now, I don't know what the house will look like and what taste the owners have, so my ideas are based on what I think could look nice. I've seen other constructions of cantilevered balconies where they used a UPE beam as a frame and then filled it with decking. Galvanized UPE can look very sleek on a "new
fooney: [citat] Hehe yeah that's the right spirit but it wasn't a big house only 6 meters long, right?
CaJa: 585 SEK for a board that is approximately 240x120 cm (K rauta price)
lassemajja: At Bauhaus they have modular stairs that you assemble yourself for about 25000 in wood and aluminum. Best regards Kristofer
Fasting65: I can then take the opportunity to try to explain how to upload an image. First, you need to place the image on a web server. Then you write a post and insert the image using the button [bild] in the button row. When you click the above button, you get two "tags" - a start tag and an end tag. Between these tags, you place the address of your image that you've placed on a web server. Then the code
LennartL: [citat] What I've learned is that the best way seems to be to buy entire wrapped lumber packages from a supplier. That way, I get everything either good or quite good, and a small amount of "bad" which I use where quality doesn't matter. The alternative is to watch when deliveries arrive at the lumber yard to pick out the good pieces - and leave the later buyers with the scraps ;) There seems to
settler: [citat] :)Aha! It's about Wolmanit and on the second floor. In what way might it affect things, I wonder?
Kalle_Kofot: You could become an anarchist for less. Then I don't think the wall is thaaaat load-bearing... But I install an HEA because it looks nice. Really nice... KK
marcus133: Thank you for that, let's go with that.
casado: I am going to build a house and I am currently reviewing the optional features for this. The standard price of the house includes just standard white doors (10 pcs) from Dooria/Kungsäter. They are quite dull, so I want oak doors instead. For this, oak door frames and handles are also needed. The standard exterior doors aren't anything to write home about either (the 2 pcs come from Bordörren).
Jenny_U: If one isn't that overly skilled in Polish, what should one do? I can't find any prices or product overview on their website (if I'm interpreting it correctly)...
mije: Hello, Does anyone know links for buying building materials, etc. online. /Mije
NordiCs: Thanks for the tips, the one with a "lock" sounded cheap and good :)
Steff: Is it difficult to move windows to a new location? The reason is that we are considering remodeling a bit and will need to move some windows. For example, new holes need to be made in the wall where windows will then be installed, etc. Can one manage this oneself assuming one is reasonably handy? And if so, how? Do you just take the frame's construction measurements and start cutting with a
joi: We have thin, white plaster on our brick facade. You can see the texture, but on this "modern" 60s house, it fits well. Much more sober, and not as kitschy as mexi (now I guess I'll have all the mexi-house owners after me ;-)) Many churches built in the 50s and 60s have white-plastered brick + copper details. Danish Uniqhus has adopted this too.
joi: Does it work to build bathroom furniture (like a vanity) in MDF? Is there a big difference if it is melamine-covered or not? Otherwise, I will paint. (The doors I will make in solid wood, so it's mostly about the frame) /Joi
Bob_the_builder: My stood without panel from October to July (I think it was... the months go by so fast) without any problem. However, manufacturers recommend a maximum of three months unprotected, but as long as it dries out every now and then, it should be fine. Our house was uninsulated during the mentioned period, so the gypsum could dry in both directions. Feel the boards, I know. If it feels soft and
fia_mstd: Have you talked to an architect? They can sometimes come up with ridiculously simple solutions that you haven't seen yourself and instead be able to utilize the existing space in a different way. Alternatively, they can come up with the best solution for a possible extension. That cost can turn out to be profitable later! :D Good luck!
Per-Erik: Hmm.. I have spiktegel on my house that was installed in the 50s.. Seems to be a very simple and light construction.. Don't understand why it's not used today??? I've only seen Marmoroc that resembles it.. however, I'm not impressed by the appearance either... At least not the ones I received in the brochure sent home from them..
arnel: I have learned that the frame is 15 mm less than the module measurement and that the hole should be 15 mm larger. This provides a gap of 15 mm on each side if you manage to make the hole perfectly straight. In practice, a few mm are likely used to compensate for the hole not being completely perfect. -- ArneL
zankan: 2.5 cm is thin, which makes it a bit difficult to work with... The concrete will "roll" on the surface when you try to level and smooth it with a steel trowel. The risk of drying cracks is probably quite high. Then I think you might get some "creep" on the surface. That is, residual deformations after loading. I mean 2.5 cm is not much, and to avoid cracks in the concrete, you use a reinforcement