Building Materials and Construction Technology
jalas: Hello again! We've been measuring and measuring, cross-measuring, and running around with the laser for several days, so now we're satisfied... I think. At least we've managed to get a perfect square for the floor! ;D The problem, however, is that one window won't be straight and unfortunately, the exterior is already fixed. And in addition, the lady of the house wanted the ceiling preserved (the
hajof70: [citat] ;D ;D ;D [citat] yeah damn... [citat] I'm a devil at discussing tiny millimeter threads in Solex's carburetor housing of zinc casting and what brand and surface treatments the bolts on the left front fender should have on Mercs from April '57. But bricks, concrete, and cast iron make me sleep extremely poorly, if at all :P ;) The message has been received though; the Stetson hat is
kakelmaster: We have a lot of old stuff lying around at the company, and every now and then it comes in handy. It's good to have it as long as it's stored correctly, it works perfectly. [citat]
Immobil: :o Ahaa, it's the brown boards you should remove. :) I think you can do it because it's very unusual to put the vangar on such boards to get support. Try removing one, then you can see what it looks like behind. I assume there are more boards/planks that the vangen is attached to. ;)
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=58200/0]Windows & doors[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
ByggaNytt: Well, spent 12 weeks this summer on the panel and am still working on it, it takes a bit of time as mentioned: [bild] I also used the tip about angled laths even though it felt a bit overkill, but it was so fun to use the then new power saw! I also bought special shooting nails for panel nailing, which have a clipped tip that causes the wood fibers to only be cut off, not split apart with the
Mjölnaren: These have a lot of hoses: http://www.lundgrensmaskin.se Might be a hose type E.V.A you're looking for 8-)
poiu: Quite typical insulation. It is very common for the straight pipes to be insulated with mineral wool, but the joints with asbestos. As long as you don't tear a hole in the casing, it's not dangerous; just let it stay. If there is a hole in the casing, tape the hole with, for example, duct tape.
svh9633: Ohh thank you Bagera ;) Good info. Thanks everyone /Sam
spocks_beard: Yes, it might be possible. With a concrete saw and crowbar, you might remove exactly what you want and not tear down too much. Good luck!
spocks_beard: Hello I've had wood-boring beetles that ate up the sill in the extended bay window, the bay window, likely built around the time the main property was constructed. (Main property from 1911 with a horizontal log frame) The foundation wall is poured concrete in the bay window. The walls are built of split logs and various boards that stood on the sills which were bad. Over time, the foundation wall
ByggaNytt: Absolutely right above! The OSB/Plywood+Gypsum will then stabilize everything, and you can also hang up whatever you want ANYWHERE on the wall :)
High_Fidelity: [citat] Considering how they handled the renovation earlier this fall, I won't let them over the threshold...
galento: Hello, again. This is what it looks like in the old garage and the previously mentioned wall. Cows were kept here before, so the "dyngluckan" was still in place under the insulation.
ByggaNytt: Yep, I think the cartridge was called something like golvfog. Exactly, it's all right! It'll definitely be better than your old solution, which indeed didn't quite hold up. Properly grooving is a highly underrated way to reinforce the joists as well - it spreads the load across multiple collaborative beams! I assume you're aware that it's quite a big job you have ahead of you. By big, I mean many
ByggaNytt: There have been some plugs specifically for Leca in recent years, so feel free to ask! Otherwise, a good tip is to first press some PL 400 into the hole and smack in the plug. Possibly wait a couple of hours, then screw it in - that usually does the trick 8-)
davidgerdin: Thank you for the answer! Brilliant to have a site like this! Kind regards, David
Bob_the_builder: The problem with using receipts as "evidence" is that they are often so poorly specified. It might say "RÖR, 110 mm" or "FÄRG 10 LIT". :P
AnnaKanin: How has it gone? We are just about to start building a closet/storage under our staircase. The house is 15 years old, so it is difficult to find materials that match. The staircase also turns 180 degrees.
zankan: Wood and basements generally aren't considered the wisest of ideas. At the same time, it's important to remember that the reason for elevated moisture levels in the basement isn't solely because it's below ground, but because basements are generally cooler than the rest of a house. You can address the moisture problem by raising the temperature. This works with slab on grade and insulation
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted/0]Miscellaneous[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Fasting65: Good to hear. We have now updated the website with some pictures from the casting - http://www.fasting65.se/byggdagbok/dagboken/dagboken_2005_december.html The question now is... how long should we keep the supports under the concrete? A couple of them are inconveniently placed (right in front of a door) so it would be nice to be able to remove them.
kakelmaster: We tilers use a sponge with a handle and a bucket with 2 rollers to remove excess water. First, you do a rough wash, and when you've achieved the right result, you do a fine wash. Drag the sponge horizontally and squeeze out excess water between each pass to avoid doing a Thimell polish afterward and dusting with a cloth. A tip is to make the grout a little thinner than what's on the package and
ByggaNytt: Certainly, it should be 1 cm per meter but try to avoid the underside of the bjäken - that's where you have the greatest load!
mfreidlitz: I honestly don't know. The room is next in line, and I thought I'd be a bit proactive - check the situation before I start digging too much. I will find out about kvalisort as soon as possible. I have a feeling that it might be the substructure that isn't properly executed... In the meantime, I'm still happy to receive your expertise; maybe I should add another option: Leave it as it is, cast a
mattiaxen: Well, it's worth thinking about. I don't think a company should charge more than 100,000 SEK for a move. If you go up to 200,000 SEK, there's a lot left over for extras.
thrax: I have the same construction on our new build. This attic wall can thus be part of the truss framework. /Thrax
m_j: Unfortunately, I don't have an answer to your question, but I'm in a similar situation as you. I have an old half-timbered house where I plan to tear out the insulation and replace it with something that breathes. How did you come to decide on using Leca-block? I've also considered that solution but haven't decided anything yet. Did you have other materials in mind, and if so, what made you
AndersS: Well, I'm a bit hesitant about using a router. If you want to make a table with side pieces and it shouldn't look too "thin," you probably need material that is at least 28mm thick. I've never tried it myself, so I might be speaking from ignorance. Why not contact a carpentry shop with a proper miter saw that has a table where you can place the board?