Hello,
I have an open hallway (transitioning to living room & kitchen) where there are tiles directly inside the door in an area of about 2x3m. The rest of the room has oak parquet, and everything is on the same level.
The current subfloor is 22 mm chipboard on 60 cm centers joists.
Now I'm thinking of expanding the area that's tiled but realize after some research that the current subfloor isn't approved for tiles, it should be 30 cm centers if there's only chipboard.
One solution, of course, is to lay 13 mm floor gypsum on top of the chipboard, but then the tiles won't be level with the old oak parquet which I want to avoid - and it will also cause issues with the front door since the floor would then be higher than the threshold.
Does anyone have a smart plan for what I could do? Can you remove the chipboards and lay multiple layers of floor gypsum instead? Approved? Feels doubtful, but I'm unsure..
Regards,
/Magnus
I have an open hallway (transitioning to living room & kitchen) where there are tiles directly inside the door in an area of about 2x3m. The rest of the room has oak parquet, and everything is on the same level.
The current subfloor is 22 mm chipboard on 60 cm centers joists.
Now I'm thinking of expanding the area that's tiled but realize after some research that the current subfloor isn't approved for tiles, it should be 30 cm centers if there's only chipboard.
One solution, of course, is to lay 13 mm floor gypsum on top of the chipboard, but then the tiles won't be level with the old oak parquet which I want to avoid - and it will also cause issues with the front door since the floor would then be higher than the threshold.
Does anyone have a smart plan for what I could do? Can you remove the chipboards and lay multiple layers of floor gypsum instead? Approved? Feels doubtful, but I'm unsure..
Regards,
/Magnus
With hesitation, it has worked - all joints have crumbled over time (the house is 15 years old), presumably due to the movement of the tiles?
If I remove the chipboards, there should be no problem accessing the joists, but not without that intervention
.
If I remove the chipboards, there should be no problem accessing the joists, but not without that intervention
.Yes, if you absolutely don't want to build upwards and I can understand that, then you'll need to tear up the chipboard!
1. Remove the chipboard, insert an old saw blade and cut along a beam.
2. Take the opportunity to reinforce the joists while you're already poking around. It depends a bit on how it looks with electricity/plumbing, but if you can add a few more beams, go for it! Otherwise, you might be able to add nogging (pieces between the beams), like:
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/vvs.jpg
3. Now you have to decide how many layers of floor gypsum you should have (1/2) and plane down the existing floor joists to the same measure (13/26 mm).
4. Put on new chipboard (glue/screw strongly).
5. Glue the first layer of floor gypsum with, for example, Ardex S48, read more here:
http://www.ardex.se/produkter/pdf/monteringsanvisningar/S48.pdf
6. Tile on.....
A few inspirational pictures of level floors:
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/vrum_hall.jpg
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/kok_mat.jpg
1. Remove the chipboard, insert an old saw blade and cut along a beam.
2. Take the opportunity to reinforce the joists while you're already poking around. It depends a bit on how it looks with electricity/plumbing, but if you can add a few more beams, go for it! Otherwise, you might be able to add nogging (pieces between the beams), like:
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/vvs.jpg
3. Now you have to decide how many layers of floor gypsum you should have (1/2) and plane down the existing floor joists to the same measure (13/26 mm).
4. Put on new chipboard (glue/screw strongly).
5. Glue the first layer of floor gypsum with, for example, Ardex S48, read more here:
http://www.ardex.se/produkter/pdf/monteringsanvisningar/S48.pdf
6. Tile on.....
A few inspirational pictures of level floors:
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/vrum_hall.jpg
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/kok_mat.jpg
Nice transitions - have you only placed a silicone string or?
Dang, then I'll have to saw.. Do you see any risk with removing a few cm from the joist? On the other hand, if I reinforce with more studs, it should only improve overall..
Thanks for the help!
/Magnus
Dang, then I'll have to saw.. Do you see any risk with removing a few cm from the joist? On the other hand, if I reinforce with more studs, it should only improve overall..
Thanks for the help!
/Magnus
Yep, I think the cartridge was called something like golvfog.
Exactly, it's all right! It'll definitely be better than your old solution, which indeed didn't quite hold up. Properly grooving is a highly underrated way to reinforce the joists as well - it spreads the load across multiple collaborative beams!
I assume you're aware that it's quite a big job you have ahead of you. By big, I mean many work hours on what's not going to be visible BUT of course is important for the final result. That's usually how it always is...
Exactly, it's all right! It'll definitely be better than your old solution, which indeed didn't quite hold up. Properly grooving is a highly underrated way to reinforce the joists as well - it spreads the load across multiple collaborative beams!
I assume you're aware that it's quite a big job you have ahead of you. By big, I mean many work hours on what's not going to be visible BUT of course is important for the final result. That's usually how it always is...