Building Materials and Construction Technology
singelhit: Hello.... Has anyone tested permafoil besides those used as references on the permafoil website? What is your result? How much has the radon level decreased? Johnny
Pontus73: Ending this thread by saying that the solution was to tear out the old wood (didn't smell good) and replace it with new. So far, everything has gone surprisingly smoothly. //Pontus
Crebel: I am renovating the kitchen in my newly purchased house from 1910, the old kitchen was not much of a kitchen. In the kitchen, there is a small wood-burning stove (from Boliders) that heats the radiator water. There was a kitchen cabinet directly to the right of it before and an electric stove directly to the left. The plan now is to have a built-in oven to the left and a new cabinet to the right.
zankan: Half-brick is enough...However, anchor it in the wall with, say, 8 mm rebar also at the bottom...
Per_B: Make a recess that you fill with cellplast. Then you can cast a thin layer on top and use the surface until you know how to proceed!
Per_B: Heat loss is something that can sometimes be lived with. However, make sure that the vapor barrier remains intact behind the cabinet to prevent condensation in the wall. However, if you have too little insulation behind the cabinet, you may get condensation in the cabinet! Regards, Per
ByggaNytt: As I usually say - everything goes: * There are many threads about winter casting, here is one: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=14300 * Quoted from Kakelcentralen: Winter Casting Concrete depends on its own heat for curing. Use warm water (30-40 degrees max 60 degrees) and protect or keep the aggregate warm so that the finished concrete becomes 20-30 degrees warm. An additional
ByggaNytt: If it's built with some form of lightweight concrete, you can also use a reciprocating saw with the right blade or hand saw with a lightweight concrete saw (like a handsaw with big teeth).
Draven: Awfully difficult as usual to find Polish pages with this content :-/ :-/
TorpAnders: Thanks for a great link, just what I was looking for!! And your page is not bad either, lucky for us mortals that there are people like you who take the time to share everything. Thanks! [citat]
Immobil: Do this: http://www.dinbyggare.com/artiklar/artikel.asp?docid=396 Check under the heading: Laga putsen :)
matshermansson: I made my own a couple of years ago. Mostly for economic reasons. Take 22 panel board as per your preference, I took 145X95 I believe. Nail and glue together into a box. Take a rubank or similar and plane the edges so it looks like it was chopped with an axe. Hold the tool loosely, so it "flutters" and becomes uneven and nice. Finally, stain to the desired color. I also mounted spotlights in
rolsie: Has tried different forms of weave on wood fiberboard. There is nothing to prevent it from moving over time, at least not in an old wooden house. The only thing that seems stable after a few years is gypsum. If one insists on having wood fiberboard, latex works better than filler.
poiu: Since plaster and filler are coming off, it hasn't worked in my opinion. If you tile the wall, it seems to me that it becomes tighter, as only the joints are open. If adhesive, grout, or filler contain unsuitable materials, you may encounter major problems depending on various factors like moisture resistance and alkali resistance.
snabela: OK, it burns well, but I think the texskivorna against the outer wall insulate really well. They are also light.
zephir: Thank you for all the responses. I have decided to wait a bit with this project, but after your responses, I can conclude that when I eventually do something, I will need to call in a constructor/engineer to check on-site how it looks. Zephir
zephir: The easiest way is to buy jamb linings for windows and doors. However, this is not designed to build six millimeters, so it needs to be split to be really good. In that case, you might as well make your own reveals using a rip saw. Buy wood of suitable dimensions and cut to size. You will use the saw many times and it doesn't need to be expensive either. My 1500:- Proofy works great for such
Snickar_Palle: :-? they are so difficult to deal with. So "above ground," so to speak. I know a couple in Järna, they park Brunte with the wagon on the street and pop into ICA. Well, it would be super cozy, having such deep walls, what "window niches"....
MartinH: Just thought I'd share my experiences with textured wall paint. We used Nordsjö's "Som sand" which gives a texture resembling fine sandpaper. Really stylish and impactful, but with a major downside (which we weren't informed about, surprisingly enough ;) ) The paint is an effective magnet for airborne dust... And it's really difficult to keep clean. Brush against the wall with a dark knitted
Ms_IT-Nisse: What you describe works perfectly fine to do. Place the boards and fill against them, if you are not going to wallpaper, use latex caulk so it doesn't crack. 😉
Kulturhusbyggarna: Cultural Center Construction in Högdalen A group of architecture students and culture enthusiasts will build a Cultural Center in Högdalen. We have a temporary building permit and limited financial resources, therefore experimenting with materials and construction solutions. It would be interesting to receive comments on our solutions, perhaps additional interesting ideas and good advice. The
Ms_IT-Nisse: I wonder if I need to tear down the återställare (attached to plaster) when I am going to place tiles on my fireplace? :question:
pelle2004: The flooring industry wants it to be installed on floor 2 as well. Probably to prevent moisture from floor 1 from rising up. Good advice can be useful to avoid trouble in the form of creaky floors, otherwise, it's probably just about laying it out and accepting the situation 8-) /Pelle
MathiasS: [citat] Ok, you're also stronger than I am. But my car...
Henrik_Ekman: Hello! Do I need to put renovation plasterboard on the walls in a kitchen where the walls are made of blåbetong, as long as the walls are straight after I've torn down the old kitchen? Or is it always easier to build the new kitchen with renovation plasterboard in place? Which is then easier, to screw or glue the plasterboard? Best regards, Henek
ikeahantverkaren: sometimes I use a mix...works very well ;)u-profile at the bottom and top.otherwise wooden studs..
Immobil: 8-) Favorite in rerun: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted6/0 Be prepared for a long read. ;) :)
poiu: With a bit of practice, it usually goes well to plaster the corners, but you shouldn't use the regular putty knives. You should use one of those long thin ones, whatever they're called, and sand the corners of it, otherwise you'll cut and get stuck in strips and sheets. So put a dab of plaster on a regular putty knife and work with the thin one. Then you can smooth it out with a wider putty
ttboy: I think you should skim coat the walls and then wallpaper.
Wilma: We needed a "real" ceiling beam when we tore down a wall a couple of weeks ago. At the local sawmill, we didn't even pay a hundred kronor per meter. Very nice! It will be left visible when the ceiling is put up. :)