Building Materials and Construction Technology
AndersS: Well, I'm a bit hesitant about using a router. If you want to make a table with side pieces and it shouldn't look too "thin," you probably need material that is at least 28mm thick. I've never tried it myself, so I might be speaking from ignorance. Why not contact a carpentry shop with a proper miter saw that has a table where you can place the board?
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50496/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Tussse: Hello I'm completely new to this, but I think I could get a lot of good tips from the rest of you here on the forum. The thing is that my girlfriend and I live in an old wooden house with a brick foundation... I would assume the house is from the 1920s or so. We have a small bathroom upstairs but only with a shower and no possibility for a bathtub :( and there's certainly something special about
moOd: I have decided to follow ACME's recommendations. Seems to work best in my case. Instead of gypsum ceiling, there will be Huntonit ceiling panels.. also seems relatively easy to install.
Ranchn: Squeezing in another technical question.. I understand that I should screw the panel in at the top of the board to hide the screw under the next board, but what about the bottom edge of the board? No screw? Feels like the board might warp and bow out at the bottom edge. Edit I have now spoken with Nordic Trä & Bygg They recommended 50mm brad nails at the bottom of the board.
plomb: :-/ I have a winter garden measuring 4x8m built on a sturdy concrete slab, the wall is a brick wall. The winter garden is built on the southern gable of the house. The winter garden has several windows, 9 pieces 10x18 plus an outer door 10x21. My question is if anyone has built an extension to a winter garden vertically? It would suit with an extra room there. It would be fun to hear about
Herman: Hehe...well, I really need some inspiration... I've been going for too long in a row that I'm almost starting to get tired. But now I'm going to get back up again :-) Thanks for all the answers!
MathiasS: If you read up a bit here: http://www.nivellsystem.se/images/stories/pdf_se/bygg.pdf ...and then call Nivell and explain that you need help with the floor construction, I'm sure they will help you with a good construction that answers your questions from the base plate up to and including the floor chipboard. For the overlying parts, the usual industry rules apply, which are discussed in all the
per11: Seems to apply to lasyr as well, I have checked a lasered panel ceiling and a white-painted panel wall it doesn't look good at all if you paint after installation. :'(
drx: Use the search function and you will find many threads that address and handle this.
kristian_Nilsson: ... you're right about that. One does have some pride.... :P
jannemac: I am going to build an extension with an angle (4x6m) in wood against the existing house which is made of brick. How do you attach it to the brick? I'm a bit worried that if you remove the brick against the new wall, the remaining brick wall will become unstable and could crack if the extension or the existing house starts to move :-). Or should the brick be left behind the studs and also fasten
ByggaNytt: With c/c 60 you can manage with a single layer of floor gypsum board if you glue with, for example, Ardex S48: http://www.ardex.se/produkter/pdf/monteringsanvisningar/s48.pdf On the floor, use FLOOR gypsum board (13 mm). Walls (standard gypsum 13 mm): Wall studs c/c 60 - Double gypsum or plyfa/OSB + gypsum Wall studs c/c 40/45 depending on board width - single gypsum Read more here:
styrman1: Don't be in too much of a hurry to paint. Wait a month or so until everything has dried before.
Larsa: Build the laundry chute with large drainage pipes (type 400 mm). Then you need to angle it through the wall and slant it down towards the laundry room. This means you'll probably have to route it through your bedroom. Built into a closet perhaps?
lob: Hello When window installers (Tiivi, Mockfjärd, etc.) install windows in plastered/rendered houses, they use some kind of cover strip made of sheet metal or aluminum that covers the distance between the frame and the wall. Maybe it can be found somewhere. / LOB
Index: I'm planning to build a built-in shelf in a studded drywall. Does anyone have a good description?
zankan: Not great to prime and fill on painted concrete. There's a risk that the whole thing will come off when the filler sets. Remove the paint unless you're making a self-supporting floor, but it adds a bit of height...
MathiasS: The posts have been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted]This topic[/link]
ByggaNytt: Have you read this thread? http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=40280 Basically the same question (plaster/wood) and whatever changes you make, there must not be any moisture problems today. What do you have on the outside of the current wall? Above/below ground, insulation, facade material etc.???
magnusss: ;D ;D The engineer-: Then I could sit down with the laundry basket in my lap.... If one can't place a pipe with a diameter of 2.30 on our driveway, I can use it as a garage ....garage alá Barbapapa ;D :D
saturnus: as explained earlier, attach a beam (45X70) around the walls with the distance you want to lower the ceiling. If the usual height today is 2.5m, then lower it minimally. The beams that will then lie between the walls should hang from a (pendulum) a metal strap that you attach to the ceiling, so that the new ceiling hangs from something (if it is a larger room). The number of metal straps should
Bricky: We had plans for just that, to remove that wall and open up the bedroom. Some "experts" around me said that the wall was not load-bearing at all and could just be removed. As a former construction worker, I know my and my surroundings' limitations, so when I hired a structural engineer for some other things, I took the opportunity to ask about that particular wall. It was definitely load-bearing.
cy_berg: I studied quite a bit before I started with my house foundation, and the reason why gravel is recommended is that it is capillary-breaking, which means it reduces or eliminates the foundation's absorption of water from the ground. Since we made our foundation with 200mm of cellular plastic insulation, we could basically have ignored this because 200mm of cellular plastic is considered
Pope: I plan to expand my winter storage in the basement for the fish, the idea is an indoor pond measuring 2x6 meters with at least 120 cm depth. The question is how much load the foundation can withstand in a one-and-a-half-story villa built in 1947.
poiu: I will take the liberty to hijack the thread as there are good pictures. I've been thinking a bit about the situation here. In the summer cottage, the floor in the basement consists of crushed stone and then about a 2 cm concrete crust. Sure, there are some cracks in it, but nothing dangerous. What I've been considering is; if it looks as it does here. Can one then level it out with leca balls,