Building Materials and Construction Technology
saturnus: Thank you. Yes, I have registered there, and read some of these x y, p, and N. Now I don't know if the municipality will even request any construction drawings/calculations, but if they do, I will put together something from the posts above. The construction will be outside a zoned area. A few days ago, when I called to order a Nybyggnadskarta, it was not needed since it was outside the detailed
snuttjulle: A major advantage of 13mm is that it is available much cheaper as it is sold in larger quantities. ;)
saturnus: [citat] Right, I would have also avoided water-soluble glue.
sigpl: Your trusses are always self-supporting. Load-bearing interior walls should, according to best practice, be marked with a longitudinal steel band, inside the plasterboard and such. So if in the future you start tearing down such a wall, stop in time.
Alsti18: I don't know if you've read the thread about building a house for 650,000 SEK with stick-built construction, but it mentions another interesting point that turned out to be right for us by chance, namely having the electrical panel centrally located. This reduces the costs for pipes and cables. Often you see utility rooms/technical rooms—where the panel is usually located in an outer corner of
elof: Sure, Jem&Fix, Byggmax, and Cheapy are in Karlskrona, but if you want good service and real building materials, go to Jämjö Träindustri, they have everything and a little more... and at relatively good prices for a real lumber yard. I'm a regular there myself :)
Mats: as usual, recommending ramirent. They don't make much noise but they have most things at good prices
Tompa01: [citat] You mention that the floor had settled before the bathroom renovation. Didn't you check what the floor structure looked like then? Do you know when it settled and why? Are you sure it's due to the reinforced beams? It sounds like your house is old; sloping floors and ceilings in older houses are not uncommon. In my limestone house from the mid-1800s, the ceiling height varies by about 12
danhard: What happened to your investigation about mass timber houses MTE by Ekologibyggarna? I'm also considering this construction. Best regards /Ulf
AndreasK: Go to Högsbo Trä (Agust Barks gata, near the former Pripps). You get it cut with good precision, but you do have to pay for the whole board when you buy MDF. Good prices and service.
platini: OK. Thanks for your help. I'll just have to check with a byggnadsingenjör.
MathiasS: The content of this topic has been moved [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=41369/3#3]HERE[/link] by MathiasS.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50467/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Mats: The method used was, as mentioned, lightweight concrete blocks. I think it feels better than wood since it can get damp around the washing machine.
chris47: Funny. I thought it was the ugliest table I’ve ever seen. Besides, it’s impractical. How do you clean in the indentation? It’s a designer table, so it probably cost a fortune. Look at the side. It’s not bent, but rather cut out. The grain is completely straight. They have cut out the shape from wood panels. Probably glued together unless they’ve used redwood, that is ;D Then they have
kakelmaster: Did you nail up the panel with staples or do you have visible nails ;)
tiggre: [citat] last spring, fixed up a closet at my mom and dad's place... (ceiling, drywall joint, and full surface spackling...) before that, I've drywalled an entire house inside, full surface spackled quite a bit, etc., etc... so I'm not a complete novice... but as you say, they buy in different batches... and from different manufacturers... kind of like bakeries in Russia are increasingly buying
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=19481/0]Tools and machines[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
daniellindholm: If it doesn't sway too disturbingly when you jump on it, it will probably be very good if you lay a real wooden floor. Good luck with the project!
Tullamore: This PDF has helped me a lot when tiling in the bathroom and laundry room: http://www.svenskakakel.se/pdf/Platt.pdf
chris47: We received a quote of 30,000 for 90 sqm. An advantage of having underfloor heating loops on the upper floor, which must be considered, is that you can have the same temperature for the supply water both upstairs and downstairs. If you have different systems in the house, you must adjust the temperature in the heat pump to the level of the radiators, which is about 10° higher, and this is
Mattias L.: You need to support it, the glass blocks cannot hold this up. Contact the engineer before you demolish!
Fredrik1976: where do you start if you plan to frame walls in an old house? in our case, it is additional insulation inward against the exterior walls and framing interior walls to hide electricity. the floor and roof will be new too! where do I start then? which wall do you start with? :D
hajof70: Ahem, a little embarrassing when I wrote the description myself.... :P The book "Småstugebygge genom eget arbete" is a goldmine :D On the other hand, my version, steel beams, concrete, and coarse gravel, isn't exactly described :'( ;D http://www.swehjo.com/diverse/bilder/bjalklag_01.jpg http://www.swehjo.com/diverse/bilder/bjalklag_02.jpg http://www.swehjo.com/diverse/bilder/bjalklag_03.jpg
hajof70: Sure, we've had fun with everything you've mentioned. The smoke test didn't reveal much, smoke came out of almost all pipes regardless of where we inserted the smoke cartridge ;D The trick is, I have two channels to choose from: - one likely (!) goes to two ventilation holes, one of which opens into the new boiler room and a soot hatch, all essentially as far apart from each other as they can
dalle: [citat] The horizontal beam (to which the lattice slats are attached) was only securely attached at the ends. In the middle, there was a small wedge that could easily be removed, indicating no pressure there (and if there had been, the wedge would probably have been crushed). If it had turned out that the beam rested on the floor structure at more places than just the sides, I might have needed
Ubbe: There is no reason to stack wood that is already dry. Actually, it’s good to add thin (5x30) "bindströn" somewhere around every 5th to 10th layer to stabilize the stack a bit :) As for covering, rain protection from above is sufficient, but preferably big enough so that it can't rain in from the sides. It's easier for any moisture to escape if the sides are open ;) 5-sided covering (top +
jeppeknaster: Hello. You are probably thinking of one of these: www.besta.se www.dorotherm.se More info is available here: http://www.chl.chalmers.se/~lind/research/katrin.pdf I know that, among others, warmhouse in Luleå builds with Dorotherm. /jeppe
Mattias L.: Available at every hardware store. There is also an adapter from that hinge to a more modern door.