Building Materials and Construction Technology
JohanOLinda: Do not tape at all! The art of a neat joint primarily lies in applying the right amount from the start. Then have a mug of water mixed with dish soap at hand. Press on the joint, dip your finger, and spread it out; occasionally scrape off the excess on your finger. Any excess on the sides of your finger (it shouldn't be much) can be scraped off with your nail when you're satisfied with the joint
morsan: Höganäs also ;) http://www.cchoganas.se/uploaded/document/2005/10/4/Trend.pdf page 18 (or 52 if you go by the thumbnails) But they only have 3 colors, it is 15mm thick. Lots of retailers in Stockholm and the surrounding area :)
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=44176/0]Heating[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
MathiasS: [citat] Why no chipboard? Does the plasterboard conduct heat better, or is there another reason? Tompa [/quote] Rather an extra layer of plasterboard than 22mm chipboard - right or wrong, that's how I've reasoned. Partly in consideration of heat conduction, partly the build height. 1 centimeter is important when renovating a house..... :=)
snuttjulle: As long as the drainage is reasonable and you don't have water coming from the inside, it works well. Personally, I removed this when I renovated my bathroom to ensure there wouldn't be any problems in the future. After all, the material is wood chips. But in the rest of the basement, it'll probably remain if I don't see any issues.
andreashj: We also used gypsum, worked great. Then it's just a matter of rolling on primer and moisture barrier according to the instructions. However, I was a bit worried about using gypsum in a bathroom, as it is water-soluble. When I hired the guys, I assumed they would use a "real" cement-based plaster. However, they assured me that Gypsum works in bathrooms, and that's also what it says on the product
rosebuddy: good thinking...tack... Knudsen or Karlsson...whatever - now I know what the function is! ;D
gta324: Hello.... I have a corner room that's enclosed with a bookshelf on one side and a wardrobe on the other, and I was thinking of building a feature wall instead of the bookshelf. In the feature wall, a 42" TV will be recessed, as well as two illuminated small "compartments." Should I use plasterboard or chipboard to make the wall? Around the feature wall, I'll probably use some molding, as I think
Max31: Hello We did the same thing when we extended my parents' summer cottage. We put a wind barrier over so the wind wouldn't blow directly into the insulation; the cottage is on pillars. However, I cannot say if there is any "risk" with this method of making the subfloor. /Max
dalle: A tip, call the manufacturer of the bathtub and ask for advice. You would be surprised at how helpful they can be sometimes! :)
ByggaNytt: Some tips on bending plasterboards: http://www.norgips.se/type1.asp?gid=406
anaitis: I was thinking plywood to make it a bit more stable. It might work without it too. Screwing works well against plaster (plug!), gluing usually goes well, maybe you should roughen up the paint a bit first. You discovered the downside - minerite IS more expensive to purchase. But at least I usually sleep more soundly - moisture can't affect the board. Moisture-proof as usual. It might be good with
daniellindholm: Thanks for the help! I will look up a stenhuggeri next time I go to the big city and look at some colors.
moroten: You can fill it up with concrete that can be bought in 25kg bags.
svh9633: Hello! How did it go? I am going to do exactly the same myself and am a bit confused about how the wall will be stable. Grateful for a response /Sam
ThomasN: I have cut down the frame between the hall and the bedroom and plan to build an arch of bricks. The wall is almost 30 wide. Are there bricks that long available for purchase? You'd ideally want it to extend 5-15mm on the sides as well. Otherwise, you'd have to overlap them, which would be nice to avoid...
fooney: MM someone else had the luck that it would explode in my toolbox.... it took a week to carve out screwdrivers and the like that were enshrined! :P
Mats: The first step is actually to plan and coordinate your purchases. It's easy to end up driving many miles to get a small item here and there. Then check where you can find recycling/sales of used building materials. Both cheaper and better to reuse than to build new. I found almost new Gustavsbeg porcelain for the bathroom. WS plus sink for 1500. New toilet seat for 200:-. Definitely good
Mats: A fixed window section as large as the door seems like the smoothest solution to me. Then you can keep the brick frame. Then you can put that plastic film that corresponds to frosted glass on the lower part if it were in the bathroom.
Draven: [citat] Hmm, yeah, I should probably think about this a bit. The most urgent thing for this room right now is getting a ceiling in place, so I really just need to put up a wall to divide the room into a home theater room and a server/data room. So I was thinking the following... Take a 45x95 to use as the bottom and fasten the two outermost studs to this, then raise the whole thing up and fasten
sambaengi: Thanks for the tip! This seems to be a really exciting site!
pappskallen: Can't see any problems with using the underlying nailer rule as long as you can hit the rule and the wall is somewhat straight. (this applies indoors I presume)
dalle: Check out drömfönstret, they have a lot of round things (even without a windowpane). You can order through most major hardware stores, such as K-Rauta. www.dromfonstret.se
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=58203/0]Windows & doors[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
snuttjulle: Start from the top so you don't need to protect the floor when fixing the walls or the walls when painting the ceiling. :)
sigpl: It's difficult to comment without a floor plan drawing. One can differentiate between load-bearing and supporting structures. Most likely, the roof trusses are self-supporting, meaning without the need for support from any interior wall and resting solely on the exterior walls. Hjärtväggar don't need to be load-bearing in the sense that they should bear the weight of overlying walls, but only