Building Materials and Construction Technology
Johan Gunverth: [citat] No, that didn't happen. Byggmax's flooring needed to dry a bit longer than I had time to wait, so I ended up with a B-sorting from Siljan's flooring instead via ttgolv.com. More expensive than Byggmax but I could install it right away. With a bit more planning, Byggmax would have been a given choice.[/quote] I got hold of B-sorting of spruce smooth tongue 120mmx15mm from a sawmill outside
ThomasN: There you go, it's done! The result turned out very well! However, it wasn't quite as long-lasting as we had heard, I would recommend one can per 25 kg of bruk. First, mix the powder into the amount of water you will use to mix the bruk so it becomes even and good. ;)
Nix: Yes, that's how I remember it. Just like TiGGrE says. I think that's what bygging is after as well. Thanks for the answer.
Tippas: It might work. :) They're leaving the house so we will wallpaper, lay the floor, and install the kitchen. Was it difficult to take up the floor again to install the spotlights?
gurra80: But if you have tiles that are tight and grout that is tight, then the problem seems to be solved. Or?????
volvo: [citat] Agree! It's not easy for a layman to see if it's a load-bearing part or not. It can be load-bearing even if it's been added later.
ByggIng: Oh no, you're about to make things difficult for yourself. As most people know, an uninsulated slab on the ground with a raised floor is a risky construction. I'm sorry to have to tell you, but the underfloor heating doesn't make it any better. First and foremost, remove any organic material from the slab. It should be spotlessly clean! Then plastic film so the diffusion stops as early as
David: ;D It wasn't that terribly expensive. The price estimate I received, (if I remember correctly, which I rarely do), was around 400 SEK + VAT and concrete. Best regards, David
Lindgrenski: Just a little curious. Why should it always be filled with water? :-?
perese: Did something similar against a sloping ceiling in a walk-in closet. I chose 22mm chipboard to have something to screw into and to make it stable. In hindsight, I could have chosen 19mm chipboard as it became very stable (bomb shelter??). However, I noticed that if you install fittings at the same height (which you probably want to), there's not much left if you choose 16mm. We chose chipboard
Immobil: The only one I can think of is Arteferro: http://www.arteferro.se/shop/index.php?cPath=22&osCsid=fbd57723225ba2f447854ce4113877c6 ::) But they're not cheap. :P
LyckeKonsult: Water glass/silicate is a binder that chemically reacts with mineral substrates and is used in silicate paint. It strengthens the stone's surface so that it becomes easier to keep clean without becoming as glossy as I think it can become with klinker oil. Search for silicate paint, and you'll find a lot to read on the subject... ;)
stefan69: www.gsbyggvaror.se Good prices download the price list (good to have).
MathiasS: Are you thinking of discs similar to LUX discs? Search for LUX on the forum and you will find prices.
Nix: Neither tile, adhesive, nor grout are waterproof. My wife works at a large construction company, and one of their top designers recommends tile on basement floors (without waterproofing). Even though we lack insulation, I believe the basic idea is the same. Our slab is also quite dry, as there is plenty of blasted rock underneath. If you have a super moist slab, you might think differently,
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=58160/0]Windows & doors[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
MathiasS: Yes, byggmax turned out to be the smartest option. The only problem there is that it's a bit too damp to screw it up right away. It should ideally lie for a couple of weeks before laying it, according to information. Instead, it became b-sorting from siljan via ttgolv.com, more expensive, but with a bit of bargaining, I can live with the price difference..... But byggmax is probably the "best"
Fasting65: It is probably easier with a 145-regel and 45-regel considering what is available at the lumber yard. Consider increasing to 170-regel. Not to be too smug, but it's called OSB.
steffen: OK, it varies depending on the construction of the floor level. I have an edge beam 45x220 as the outermost beam on the upper level, so I could fasten it with a through bolt. In the lower mounting part, there's flooring chipboard laid, so I might need something more than just screwing directly into the floor.
zankan: [citat] Of course that's what it was... Don't know if I should blame tiredness maybe...
greenbay: I would like to thank the builder for a concrete tip "kottla between the flanges...". So you have plyfa and 2 layers of gypsum on top of that? Should I put insulation inside the box, for fire protection, and possibly soundproofing? How do I attach the kottlingar, glue? Is it completely forbidden to cover with panel, e.g., finely planed? On top of plyfa + 1 layer of gypsum? To the rest of you, I
sthe: Well, there are no wonders here, the best that is somewhat easy to get is polyurethane foam (PUR) insulation used mainly for refrigerator insulation. It often has a lambda value lower than 30. You can find it at refrigeration companies. Next best is extruded polystyrene (XPS), available in well-stocked building supply stores. Lambda down towards 30. Compared to mineral wool which has a lambda
poiu: But you have to pay for the calculation of the resonator. :) A complication is probably that it is presumably a gabled roof with full ceiling height. Another variant is probably panel absorbers/resonators, I can't remember what they are called, oil cloth or something. If I remember correctly, it was possible to use disks as well.
AndreasK: That could explain it... nice that the house manufacturer thinks about ergonomics when they're not the ones nailing the house together...
Loda: http://www.gyproc.dk/gyproc/content.nsf/docLinks/00CADB9ED84F51E3C1256E150043BBA3?OpenDocument&m=mmmcmd
saturnus: Thank you. Yes, I have registered there, and read some of these x y, p, and N. Now I don't know if the municipality will even request any construction drawings/calculations, but if they do, I will put together something from the posts above. The construction will be outside a zoned area. A few days ago, when I called to order a Nybyggnadskarta, it was not needed since it was outside the detailed
snuttjulle: A major advantage of 13mm is that it is available much cheaper as it is sold in larger quantities. ;)