Building Materials and Construction Technology
bri00tsa: Wondering about material for stair treads indoors. Stringer is made of glulam, and I was thinking of using glulam for the treads as well. Just wondering if anyone has any other good alternatives that might be worth considering?
kloka_elin: Am I blind/have a poor screen resolution/being blinded by the dazzling white snow outside?? All options are possible, but I don't see any plastic over the jars. Have you taped it around the buckets? /Elin
chris47: Load-bearing walls should be marked on the house plan. You absolutely must have a load-bearing beam if you are going to open up 4 m. Ask the construction company where you plan to buy the beam to size it for you. It's free, otherwise, there are guides on laminated wood manufacturers' websites. http://www.svensktlimtra.se/sv/signin/signin.php http://www.moelventoreboda.se/index.asp?menuItem=L10 /CC
matshermansson: The fiber should absorb moisture. It should work just like wood shavings on the roof. Absorb moisture in the winter and dry in the summer. Mats
chris47: I use a regular cutting wheel with a diamond blade (80 kr at Biltema). Cut as far as you can around and then pry with a regular screwdriver to split. Any unevenness is also sanded away with the diamond blade. Maybe not the smoothest method but you avoid buying special tools. /CC
LyckeKonsult: Take everything down from the walls in the basement... Plaster (gypsum plaster) on the concrete block or whatever the basement is built of and insulate on the outside - studs insulation and boards on the inside is a mischief ;)
chris47: If you have plenty of money, you level the entire slope with self-leveling compound. Otherwise, you can glue another gypsum board which you cut to get the right slope, then apply the self-leveling compound (that way you use less). So. The extra board has a large hole (about 1m in diameter) around the drain. /CC
chris47: Sure! they exist. You can find smaller angle brackets in hardware stores or ironmongers. /CC
jeppeknaster: I've looked at them a bit, but it feels like you're getting a very light construction. It also looks a bit flimsy in the construction pictures on their website. How would such a house withstand a storm like "Gudrun"? Have you looked into dorotherm or thermohus solutions? www.dorotherm.se and www.thermohus.nu see also www.chl.chalmers.se/~lind/research/katrin.pdf /jeppe
Faidros: Here's how: Plaster has been used for a very long time, and plasterboards began to be used in Sweden in the mid-1950s. http://www.sbi.se/omraden/o_dokument.asp?dId=82
Immobil: Here is someone who is happy to make a deal: http://www.blocket.se/vi/7358102.htm?ca=22_s :)
ByggaNytt: * Mollys or similar * Try to find/screw into some wall studs * Attach all cabinets to each other above all
Qvintus: Thank you for the quick responses! The drawings from Gävle provide tips on building permit drawings, then I will swing by the library to check if they have the book by Gösta Hamrin. Thanks again! :)
zingo: N/m2 means how much surfaces can be loaded, i.e., the pressure (Newton per square meter) the surface can withstand. 1670 N/m2 means (1670/9.82 kg/m2) i.e., 170 kg/m2 Max c-distance 1200 etc means that the maximum distance between roof trusses can be at most 1200 mm (1.2 m) if the snow load is 101 kg on a square meter, i.e., a little less than half a meter of snow cover. D-ram and U-ram I'll leave
Immobil: Wood against concrete/Leca is a risk construction. :P Better to use steel studs or plaster the walls. The "beams" in the ceiling look like Siporex blocks. :)
Faidros: The question is thoroughly discussed elsewhere. Check here: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=49202
matshermansson: Not a bad house! Then you can have a bowling alley indoors. ;)
halloy: The thing is that an "acquaintance of a friend's friend" was supposed to fix the ceilings with board and then put up Duro Easy Cover that he painted. Thought it sounded completely crazy, but maybe it could work if you can use board as a ceiling. I thought it was too thin and flexible.
sigpl: I think it will always move at the junction between concrete and stud wall in wood (which I guess you mean with drywall). I believe putty will come off and even if you put fabric, it will wrinkle at the joint over time. Some form of soft sealant or a substantial "break" with a molding or something will probably be necessary.
sandhall: [citat] Sounds like they are the ones available at http://www.tenico.nu/ (under the heading "bygg beskrivning"). They also seem to be orderable from Liber directly, at a lower price. http://www.liber.se/ -> Gymnasium/vuxenutbildning -> Byggprogrammet
anaitis: You are absolutely right Gaia, the moisture diffuses through the concrete without air movement.
anaitis: I can only add that my washing machine calmed down significantly once it had a torktumlara on top of it! The increased mass did the trick.
Cyrix: I have probably done just as you want to do. You become a bit constrained in the placement of the spotlights considering the ceiling joists. I used 10-liter paint cans in metal as cans above the spotlights. Sawed the old wooden ceiling as large as the paint can and then stood ready for a shower of wood shavings. I also managed to achieve concealed electrical wiring by drilling at a fairly steep
zingo: Planning to have one that is equally long and rests on the same wall rule as the old one. Glue and bolts sound good. I'm aiming for six bolts (12 mm) and glue here and there. Thanks for the feedback.
chris47: Agree. Täljsten is very delicate. On the wall, however, it can look nice. I would still prefer dark slate in contrast to the täljsten stove. Don't forget to check with the chimney sweep if the distance to the wall is OK. If you have a wooden stud in the concrete wall, it might become a problem during the inspection. /CC
daniellindholm: Yes, I would really like to go through with it. It would be a reasonably fun fun project. Completely in line with the rest of the house (1000 angles, towers, etc.)
TN-Funkis: A bit of Gortex functionality over this plastic, can't give you good advice, but a good link instead: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Isolering;action=display;num=1123545098
zingo: Don't know, but: http://www.google.se/search?hl=sv&q=siberian+larch+estonia&btnG=Google-sökning&meta=