Building Materials and Construction Technology
TN-Funkis: A bit of Gortex functionality over this plastic, can't give you good advice, but a good link instead: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Isolering;action=display;num=1123545098
zingo: Don't know, but: http://www.google.se/search?hl=sv&q=siberian+larch+estonia&btnG=Google-sökning&meta=
peremma: Hello! Have you made any progress? We have a building permit for exactly what you want to do. When we requested quotes for roof trusses, we included the house design, which was quite detailed, and that way we got an initial idea of whether everything would work. We've also had a consultant do some calculations, but they billed a lot. This company prefabricates roof extensions.
Fasting65: How about eliminating the support steel by making a reinforced concrete beam instead? I understand what you're aiming for and am thinking a bit myself since we are going to build a stove that requires support using steel or a concrete beam. Hope someone has a good answer.
Mala-w: The deck construction is approaching. We would like a darker decking wood. Does anyone have prices on Thermex decking? Is there anything cheaper than 400 SEK/sqm, like Kirai? Do you have other tips on how to treat pressure-treated wood to deep brown? We need a lot of paving stones and some walls. Is it possible to import all we need from the Baltic countries? Tips on websites or anything else are
magnusbjork: [citat] I wonder if capricorne might be a beetle in general. Have you tried googling "Capricorne des maisons"? In English, it seems to be called "Old house borer" and "House longhorn beetle".[/quote] Yep, that's right. I've searched for it. (Among others.) Thanks for the answer. Regards, Magnus
Immobil: 8-) A tip much closer: http://www.mjallby-trabygg.se/sida_10015.asp :)
LyckeKonsult: Contact a consultant ;) or a skilled builder and ask for advice... the thing with sand doesn't sound good... :( What does the construction look like? :-?
kloka_elin: Has anyone bought platonmatta in Poland? Or does anyone know what it's called in Polish? :) /elin
sanne78: buy 2 fresh 90.. installation instructions are included.. I have installed 2 myself just like you need. ;)
NicoMalm: Yes, I've seen something similar. I think it was on a website for a company that sold 'lätt-reglar'. These consisted of two thin studs with a piece of hardboard in between. Positive in terms of weight and thermal bridging, but as I understood it, it became a bit 'puligt' with the insulation because standard width/sheets no longer fit... Currently, it looks like I will build with regular lumber
mattiasp: [citat] Although I like carpentry, my conditions were worse. Probably heavier radiator, single drywall, and only two fastening points. Furthermore, it turned out that there was no vertical stud under the window at all. The drywall lacked support at 1400 mm!
ImprezMe: I guess it will have to be plugs then. I don't have access to a milling machine to make slots for the biscuits...
hempularen: There is something called metallvaruhuset (or at least it was called that a few years ago) in the Lunda industrial area. There you can buy most things from 20 cm aluminum profiles to whole copper beams. They also sell to private individuals, otherwise I think they are mostly an industrial supplier.
spikmas: On this American site, there is a clever feature for calculating step heights, etc. Unfortunately, only straight stairs. http://www.blocklayer.com/stairs/
ollesthlm: I will install flooring in my apartment threshold-free. According to the floor layer, you should not lay larger areas than 12 meters in length in any direction. So it's fine to lay threshold-free if you stay under 12 meters. Just make sure to have movement allowance along the walls.
Anonymiserad 23608: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=40656 http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=51986
betelgeuze: Want to build a joist system with ecological alternatives. What materials in the different building parts can be recommended? I am primarily interested in materials that are resistant to mold.
elof: As I've said before: If it were dangerous, they wouldn't be allowed to sell it, right? Of course, toxins can't leak from your kitchen furnishings! Okay, the glue in the board itself isn't healthy, but once the kitchen is made and finished, it doesn't affect you unless you start frying the boards and eating the chips ::) I believe if you paint furniture with oil paint, more junk comes out than
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=43857/0]Heat[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Haagbard: [citat] No, no idea, regular countertops are usually cheap at IKEA, but the boards in the picture seem thicker than IKEA's (and similar) boards. Maybe a piece of board on its side, hidden under the seat and tabletop, would be a good idea to give it a bit more stability? Cool design anyway, what kind of wood could it be in the picture... walnut, elm? I've laminated a bit myself and I think elm is
gurra80: Or believe and believe, I just know that it will be fine :D
Anonymiserad 23608: I assume you have embedded fiberglass tape in the joints? If so, I would try applying microlit (smooth fiber cloth) and then painting. It usually can absorb some movements in the material.
AndersS: One disadvantage of the boards hardware stores sell, if you plan to use them for furniture, is that they are finger-jointed, which is visible on the long side as a zigzag pattern.
mattiasp: I understand! The OSB is a bit thin, 11 mm. It might be a bit tricky to get the screws to hold properly while also avoiding them hitting the concrete. What do you think about this: One layer of OSB/3 is nailed into the concrete. An additional layer of OSB/3 is screwed into the first layer. Then grey felt paper and a screwed wooden floor. 25 mm is unnecessarily thick. 14 mm works well when you
AndersS: Built a small wall section in multiplatta (smooth lightweight concrete), 800(b)*1000(h), which I then continue up to the ceiling with glass blocks as a shower wall. I had PL400 lying around which I used to glue the blocks to the floor and wall, as well as between the blocks. Was it foolishly stingy to use PL400 or is it necessary to use the recommended tile adhesive? They seem to be holding