Building Materials and Construction Technology
AndersG: You should have spruce in any case. The difference between Norrland and Småland is that the timber from the north has grown slower and has denser growth rings; it is simply better. Cut out two equally sized pieces and compare the weight, and you'll see.
pinebar: Hello! Clas Olsson has these ones that are almost the same: http://www.clasohlson.se/ext.asp?art=211333001 You will also have to paint them white yourself. /pinebar
zico98: Hi. Under the following heading, you can read a bit about shopping in Poland: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=40336 I will probably go down to Poland myself on 23/7 and return 25/7 with a large truck and will likely have some space left over. If you're interested in some pallet spots at a good price, just let me know. What I will be shopping for our house renovation is: Appliances =
zankan: Let's clear things up here.... Drill points should NOT be used, they are not suitable for regular RDB or R studs and should only be used with FR studs. Use grabber or other brands intended for plyfa, OSB, or chipboard called J16 if I remember correctly. They should also be phosphated. It's often the middle stud that causes problems, as the end stud can easily be held in place with the second
MathiasS: The plastic does not impede the ventilation of the attic. You must manage the ventilation of the attic in other ways—eaves ventilation, lattice at the gable peak, etc. Plastic and ventilation are not opposed to each other. I am doubtful that moisture impact would be significantly greater in the area with roofing to the ridge, but that's just my gut feeling. Your house has done well for 40 years
Mats: 2.50 is enough to see the profit. Just lift up the skiva and then adjust it. Then press it in with the lift. You can screw it in later at your leisure.
zankan: [citat] Nail plugs are not sufficient... AMA says something completely different if I remember correctly... Unfortunately, I can't look it up now as I don't have access at home... if K approves that it is hit in with nail plugs then it's enough, but I am very, very doubtful...
Manberg: When I start building it will be as Ecological and Economical as possible (with some compromises). I would like those of you who have built, are building, or will build ecologically to share some tips and opinions on materials, manufacturers, and experiences... Windows, doors, insulation, heating, issues with building permits because of this, etc. etc. I will personally be building with 20cm
per11: same here - it makes a lot of noise near the central unit Place the CD's central unit in a suitable location, e.g. basement, garage, attic, etc.
ByggaNytt: Insulation (glass/stone-wool) does not age and become bad if it is stored well, which "yours" seems to have been. However, you should check if it still has straight cut edges and does not just consist of leftover pieces. It is more important to insulate well and avoid thermal bridges than the type of insulation. So go ahead and reuse the insulation for a first layer and then buy new for the next
Mats: And thus it became..... Sanding. This is because if I had used a jackhammer, I would still have needed to sand the result. About 30 hours, a few blisters, and reasonably sore feet later, the filler is pretty much gone. For those who are pros at sanding, yes, my technique was terrible. Once I learned how to do it, half the job took 6-7 hours. Now I'm wondering how to varnish a concrete floor. Is
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] 66mm bearing is surely sufficient. More critical is perhaps the material the beam will rest on, how hard is it? Is it wood, concrete, brick?
Steffo57: I was thinking about the beams. I actually haven't thought about the plinth. (Each plinth is cast together with a footing of 600x600 with a height of 170. The cylindrical plinth itself is Ø200 x 1200 mm with 4x Ø8 mm reinforcement bars. There is reinforcement in the footing as well. Then there is ground insulation, of course.)
ByggaNytt: Better pictures here: http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/panel
joseful81: Hello! Thanks for your reply! I will try that first, see how it looks under a few tiles.! I will write again when I have done that so we can see! Thanks again for all the help!!! Best regards, Josefin [citat]
kakelmaster: Yes, it often looks worse than it is, it takes a lot for the iron to rust through. Remove all the loose bits and cast a new base with slope. Then lay a moisture barrier and finish with tiles. [citat]
poiu: Are additives sold to private customers to make concrete more fluid? It is intended to be used to keep the WCR down on a thin, homemade casting outdoors.
chris47: I don't claim to be an expert on walls, but I can think of two methods I would choose between. Build a form with studs and plywood sheets. Reinforce and seal. Order x number of cubic meters of concrete and fill up the space. The second option is to build the wall with brick, natural stone, or concrete stone. In both cases, the wall should be fixed to the base by drilling or driving in iron rods.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=20751/0]Contractors & Entrepreneurs[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Mats: reinforce one should always.... I am not a guru but a happy amateur so I would place a 10mm iron at the bottom and one at the top and in between cut strips of armeringsnät. How deep it should be to become stable I have no idea.
fremag: At www.byggbeskrivningar.se there is a good description of wood. Look under the menu "general" and you will find the description "Good to know about wood."
Nickenorpan: [citat] Sounds very interesting! But I don't understand. What is Sto and where can one find the remediation program? [/quote] www.sto.se Try calling them? I don't know of any "retailer" that sells their products directly to customers, without work so to speak. Where I lived before, we had exactly the same phenomenon you describe and they removed the loose material, then built a mold and cast
kakelmaster: How many apply for a building permit for this. Authorities should mind their own business about what you do in the garage. ;) [citat] That you need to apply for a building permit, since you are essentially changing the usage of the space. [/quote]
robert_turesson: Hehe, they're already where they should be so that part is already sorted out.
Lybeck: I am renovating an old (1930) cowshed in Skåne and unfortunately, I am a beginner with stone houses. The interior paint and plaster layer are in very poor condition, so I will remove all the plaster. Underneath is a fairly coarse structure that I interpret as some form of old coarse cement. Additionally, there are some deeper "damages." The framework is most likely granite. It will become a
banana: hello again :D After much back and forth? I have removed the old plaster from almost the entire chimney. It doesn't look good, either plaster or faux brick....... but Lycke.. you said it's not recommended, how do you know where you can put faux brick? some plaster/mortar can't be removed, it does more harm than necessary (sticks like stone) How do you attach faux brick?...it can be glued on or