Building Materials and Construction Technology
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=55744/0]Paint, painting & wallpapering[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
aivo: Haven't had internet for a while and therefore couldn't reply. I spoke with my local steel dealer who said that an HEA beam that is 7 m long and 200 mm high can handle a load of about 2.5 tons. He thought it would be too weak, so he recommended an HEB with the same dimensions that should handle 6.5 tons. I could get that for 4500kr plus VAT which I can deduct, and 400kr in shipping for 4 miles
zephir: MDF that you mill cutouts for the glass in. Zephir
elof: If any parts make contact with the ground, they "Shall" be treated. This will primarily concern joists in your case; I don't know if you plan to bury joists, build on plinths, or have a loose construction, but as a general rule, at least the parts in contact with the ground should be made of treated wood. Otherwise, it doesn't hurt with treatment, but if you're going to paint it, in my opinion,
mats_h: Hello! I can't see what kind of flooring is in the room. But a well-tested method to relieve the wall is to temporarily erect a beam (type I beam) with jacks or pillars along the wall's length, then dismantle the wall. The next step is to erect the construction that will replace the wall. A pillar at each end is mounted directly to the foundation wall or slab (possibly over a sill), and a
Laberg: Could it be a hip roof you mean? In that case, Novoroom has a drawing and kit for it. The problem is just the price.. If you know how to frame the roof, you can of course do it yourself, but unfortunately, I have no idea. I'm looking for a solution myself.
erikssonjorgen: Hi, No, the insulation between the 90 studs remains. However, I am removing the existing wind barrier and replacing it with windproof paper after the 120 studs. Jörgen (who still wonders if it can be done as in post 1)
gogu: Planning to build a wooden balcony (1.50 x 3.30) and I have a question, how to make the railing stable enough (you don't want someone leaning against it and falling down since it's a bit of a drop to the ground). For the floor joists, I plan to use 2x5" which will be laid lengthwise on top of 4x4" braced by supports against the wall. The posts in the railing will be 4x4". At the ends of the floor
likblek: 45 with insulation sounds like a little but maybe better than nothing. is it fired brick in the walls? having an age-resistant building site inside the insulation sounds like a good idea! if the interior walls are plastered, I think you should continue with that even in the future. look a bit at what has been done before if the house hasn't suffered from it. likblek
Robert_Maria: @lier It might be possible to solve with a telescopic ladder instead of a folding ladder. @Faidros Yes, I saw that. However, it turned out after a visit to the construction site that it is not a ladder from the house supplier's standard range, so the figures in the document I refer to do not match. The ladder was, however, quite similar. @MathiasS The sketch matches that ladder, but it turned out
anaitis: If you can arrange for the boards not to move during the curing time, e.g. with nails or screws, it is also possible to attach with foam!! Spray on strings with c/c 300, adjust the amount according to how uneven the surface is. First, test spray on an old piece of board so you learn how much the volume increases. The foam expands quite a bit!!
anaitis: [citat] If you stand them on edge, they have the same strength even without glue-screwing. You just need to "nest" them together. If, however, you lay them flat, I don't think they'll be as strong, even if you glue-screw them! In other words: Stand them on edge; nail or screw them together in a few places.
hempularen: If the drawing indicates that the wall is load-bearing, you will probably need to at least make a building notification, and in that case, you will likely need a statement from a structural engineer that the wall is not load-bearing. Alternatively, a construction drawing on how you plan to reinforce it. Such a drawing must also be supplemented with strength calculations. I'm quite convinced that
krillek: Well, just have to admit living in the wrong city :P They did have what I needed in stock - thanks for the tip!
krillek: You might be able to rent a Logosol timber jig to saw the log on-site?
AntonL: [citat] thanks chris!! now I have almost completed the entire work, only the beam tasks left! Best regards AntonL
sville: Are you referring to the sill? I mean the rule that rests on the foundation/plate? If that's what you mean, the price depends somewhat on what kind of facade your house has. I know that for a brick villa, it's around 100-150k.
Ranchn: Yes, it was the skurupsborren I was thinking of ;) The stairs will consist of 4 - 5 steps. I was considering only having a stone slab on the ground where the stringers can rest against. And of course, they should be properly anchored to the deck/bridge. Thank you.
rincewind: I think the smoke mostly comes when I open the hatch to add more wood... also, I think I have enough draft in the boiler up through the chimney base.. I had the chimney sweep at my place just a couple of weeks ago.. What can suitable material be?
tomas_mandorf: shouldn't it work with regular construction adhesive designed for cellular plastic? http://www.sika.se/view/files/63/Sikabond-525+PB.PDF //Tomas
cpalm: No huu, their prices are nothing to joke about. Don't K-Rauta or Ekesjöö in Bromma have lightweight concrete blocks? If not, they will surely bring them in at no extra cost.
Bidda: [citat] Exactly, and that's the most fun time, pondering ;D
Kurtivan: I should have loosened the outermost decking board. Let the posts go down a bit below the beam, maybe 30 cm, attach them to the beam with either screws or nail plates, attach a brace from the bottom part of the post back up diagonally to the beam. Did anyone understand? Nope!
banana: [citat] hmmm, if you use an LCD screen you should be able to reduce the "standard" measurement by about 30 cm, right? Otherwise, I probably need a desk that is 140 cm for my big screen ;) ;D
anaitis: Alt 1 Cut away, then fill in with plaster to the right height. Alt 2 Buy a rasp. Great for that kind of adjustments. Alt 3 Sand with very coarse sandpaper, e.g. grit 16 - 30. Removes well. But dusty!
freddde: I have just finished plastering the two walls that face the outside of the house. I thought I would put up drywall on the walls that face the inside of the house. Is it just a matter of framing and attaching the drywall with a small gap at the floor? I am also planning to tile the floor, should I do that first or should I put up the walls first? I had never plastered before (but it turned out
AoA: We are going to build a two-story aerated concrete house where the span will be a maximum of 6 meters for the intermediate floor. Which intermediate floor is best considering impact sound, installation of electricity, water, and underfloor heating, and not to forget the total price of materials + labor? Thanks in advance/AoA