I have a basement made of concrete hollow blocks that I plan to furnish like a recreation room, the walls are not completely straight, there are slight differences between the blocks so I wonder what technique I should use? Plastering seems to be difficult considering the walls.

What is the difference between slamming and plastering the walls? Can you achieve a surface that isn't very rough like a pizzeria when you slam the surface?

It doesn't need to be completely straight in the basement as long as you can't see the concrete hollow blocks (I don't want to use studs and drywall on the walls).

What would you have done? ::)
 
Use gypsum plaster!
You may need a primer to improve adhesion and reduce absorption to the substrate, but gypsum plaster adheres very well to all substrates (except smooth gypsum plaster).
You can either place strips of metal (accessories for the systems, in any case Gypsum), align and level the wall and set the strips in blobs of gypsum plaster. Now it is easy to level the wall, the thickness of the application can be up to 60mm!!!
Otherwise, simply apply the gypsum plaster to the texture and thickness you want and straighten the wall freehand to the best of your ability!
Good luck!
 
I have the same problem and will solve it with plaster. A company did an adjacent room and it turned out great. Got a price (excluding VAT) of 5000 for 21 sqm basement lounge, and that includes plastering the ceiling! Considering the work and how difficult it is to plaster yourself, I think it's really cheap.
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Had the same thoughts about gypsum plaster because it is so much easier for an amateur than plastering with mortar. Since it was a basement, I called Maxit who said that gypsum plaster is not recommended in basements if there is a moisture risk. My basement is not very damp but it has concrete walls below ground level. Maxit did not recommend gypsum in my case.
 
I believe that maxit wants both suspenders and a belt (or rather: I know ;D)
Feel free to talk to a plastering company near you, maxit can surely recommend one, talk to the district salesperson, technical support usually doesn't have that knowledge.
It doesn't matter if the plaster gets damp at some point as long as it then has the opportunity to dry out...
The problem then becomes what to treat it with... leave it untreated!!! :)
 
So you would recommend gypsum plaster on a basement exterior wall below ground?
 
I would first make sure the wall works well, i.e., that it isn't constantly wet... but then you have other problems as well. Ideally, the wall should not be treated, but if there are no signs of peeling or water stains on the paint, it's not an issue. Even though gypsum plaster becomes softer when it absorbs water, it returns to its normal strength once it dries. I previously mentioned that if you're unsure, you should choose to leave the wall untreated, but if you absolutely must treat it, use a good silicate paint. Keim or maxit, for example.
 
Slow down... ;)
It's a task you can definitely do yourself if you're a bit handy, but... to handle the amount of material that comes out of that spruta, you need to be a pro... "a lot of material it will be" ;D
Mix in a large bucket with a whisk, and you'll be busy for quite a while!
Also, remember to clean the bucket between mixes, otherwise the leftovers act as a catalyst and it burns fast as hell.
Good luck!
 
LyckeKonsult said:
I believe that maxit wants both suspenders and a belt (or rather: I know ;D)
Feel free to talk to a plastering company near you, maxit can certainly recommend one, talk to the district salesperson, technical support usually does not have that knowledge.
It doesn't matter if the plaster gets damp at some point as long as it has the opportunity to dry out...
The problem then becomes what to treat it with... leave it untreated!!! :)

Lycke, I want color on my basement walls that we plan to plaster with gypsum. No previous moisture problems. We live dry as tinder on a ridge.

What type of paint allows moisture to pass through?

Other considerations when painting directly on plaster?

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Instead of plastering, can't you just glue thin drywall to the basement wall if it is somewhat flat and DRY?
I have drained around the house with isodrän, but I have no desire to plaster all the basement walls. Gluing up thin drywall would be much easier. Is it possible?
 
Builder, so if I understand you correctly, it's better to plaster with gips than to put up boards? Painting with silicate paint sounds reasonable, but is there a significant difference compared to plastic paint? Shouldn't that work as a vapor barrier next to the warm/humid room?
 
synpunkter said:
So you would recommend plaster on a basement exterior wall below ground?
I just spoke with a moisture specialist company that will come here and take a look. He recommended using regular plaster and not gypsum plaster, as the gypsum plaster becomes too dense.
 
A said:
Builder, so if I understand you correctly, it's better to plaster with gips than to install boards?
Painting with Silicate paint sounds sensible, but is there a big difference compared to plastic paint? Shouldn't it work as a vapor barrier closest to the warm/humid room?
The boards have a paper layer.
Paper is organic and can therefore mold.

Plastic paint becomes a sealing layer, and it should be avoided on basement walls.
Silicate paint allows the moisture to pass through.

The purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent moisture in the indoor air from entering a construction that cannot tolerate water (e.g., outer wall insulation, wooden studs, etc.).
The basement wall absorbs ground moisture, and if there is a plastic film, the moisture will stay on it, leading to moisture problems as a result.
If the moisture can instead pass through the construction, it will be absorbed by the warmer indoor air and ventilated away. (Assuming the ventilation works as it should).
 
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