I have a small construction question... I will have 45x220 that will lie horizontally on top of the wall studs under the wall plate. I will be embedding 45x220 at the top of the wall studs. Hope you understand what I mean :-?. Now to my question; Where should I splice these 220 beams? On top of a wall stud or between two wall studs and if so, should I nail a shorter piece behind the splice...
Grateful for answers from you "real" carpenters..
Grateful for answers from you "real" carpenters..
1.) On a (full) wall stud!
2.) You drive between glue screws you attach a piece (45*220) behind...
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/vagg.jpg
2.) You drive between glue screws you attach a piece (45*220) behind...
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/vagg.jpg
I think you misunderstood the question... check Bygga nytt's pictures.Byggaren said:The part you should place on top of the studs is called a top plate. It should be spliced over a support/stud, but since they are rarely more than 45 mm wide, it doesn't provide much support.
You also don't want a block under the joint between the studs because it causes problems when you later need to insulate between the wall studs up to the top plate.
To solve the problem, I suggest you place the joint over the studs and make it using the half-lap method. That is, you cut away half of the top side of the top plate over a length of 15 cm and half of the bottom side of the meeting part, also 15 cm in length. Then join the splice and nail straight through it down into the wall stud it rests on. It's the best method, even if it involves a bit more work. You'll get a completely smooth underside and a strong joint. Apply a little polyurethane glue to the contact surfaces, and the joint will be as strong as the unspliced part.
My perception (and I have been to quite a few construction sites in recent years...) is that this is exactly how the professionals do it to avoid fitting the roof trusses precisely. It provides completely different flexibility and you don't have to be so damn meticulous. It costs money, as is well known...Byggaren said:
"bygga nytt" rules! Fact. Extremely impressed with your construction. YOU must have a wonderful wife who lets you do everything and take the time it takes. I guess you've let it take the time it takes and not rushed it.
Question to the above, how long did it take to make the glesen in the floor? Must have taken a lot of time. I'm considering laying a spårad skiva and saving a lot of time and trouble.
Heard that it costs 400kr/sqm..
Besides, one usually puts a stånde under the hammarband today in most custom-built houses. I say with my amateur knowledge. Self-taught..
Question to the above, how long did it take to make the glesen in the floor? Must have taken a lot of time. I'm considering laying a spårad skiva and saving a lot of time and trouble.
Heard that it costs 400kr/sqm..
Besides, one usually puts a stånde under the hammarband today in most custom-built houses. I say with my amateur knowledge. Self-taught..
When I framed, I used c/c 60 on all wall studs, then quickly onto the chairs+roof. Windows/doors were added later! That's how we build with loose timber in (rainy) TullingeByggaren said:Certainly, you can do that to avoid being too meticulous, etc. But... If you take another look at ByggaNytt's picture and estimate the distance between the standing studs, it is not adjusted for the insulation. It automatically aligns with cc 1200 on the roof truss in relation to cc 600 on the standing studs. Then you fit the openings, and if there's a standing stud in the way, it will be offset, but I can't believe ByggaNytt had such bad luck with the placement of the openings that it would be necessary to stand a plank on edge under the beam around the whole house? In other words, poor planning in the design stage, because isn't everything built new today a shortcut?
You don't want too many thermal bridges, and standing there cutting the insulation with a poor fit in the cavities doesn't save money or time. Furthermore, you can't have equally thick insulation at the top of the wall where the plank steals part of the wall thickness. This method gives a poorer end result even from an energy perspective.
I don't have c/c 1200 between each chair due to a somewhat complicated roof design - naturally calculated by a very experienced designer. What's not visible in this picture is that I also framed/insulated another 45 mm on the inside and then added another 45*220 - so no risk of collapse here
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/vagg_plast.jpg
Now I have a total of 260 mm of insulation in the walls with 2 broken thermal bridges so I can afford a little extra wood here/there!
The builder,
But what do you gain in the long run by raising the framework in one day? I have the impression that you gain the most by making the wall blocks lying down (studs, plaster, nail strip, facade) in order and then raising them and then setting the trusses. It's easier to lay a plasterboard down on the framework than to hold it up against a wall. Saves the body too.
Curious to hear what you have to say
/Nina
But what do you gain in the long run by raising the framework in one day? I have the impression that you gain the most by making the wall blocks lying down (studs, plaster, nail strip, facade) in order and then raising them and then setting the trusses. It's easier to lay a plasterboard down on the framework than to hold it up against a wall. Saves the body too.
Curious to hear what you have to say
/Nina
I have tried both methods and in my next build, I will likely do something similar to what the Builder describes. Building lying wall blocks completely and then raising them is certainly practical, and it does save your back, but there are some disadvantages one should consider:
- The blocks become very heavy. You cannot move them, much less raise them by hand. You need access to a crane.
- It is difficult to achieve sufficient precision "in the field." The blocks must be perfectly square and flat. It's not possible to adjust them afterward.
- You are more exposed to the weather for a longer period.
Furthermore, it's not as difficult as one might think to install gypsum externally. It goes pretty quickly. And it's more cumbersome than one might think to crawl around on a lying frame structure and screw in gypsum boards.
- The blocks become very heavy. You cannot move them, much less raise them by hand. You need access to a crane.
- It is difficult to achieve sufficient precision "in the field." The blocks must be perfectly square and flat. It's not possible to adjust them afterward.
- You are more exposed to the weather for a longer period.
Furthermore, it's not as difficult as one might think to install gypsum externally. It goes pretty quickly. And it's more cumbersome than one might think to crawl around on a lying frame structure and screw in gypsum boards.
I agree with you that it gets heavier, but you can indeed manage to raise the blocks without a crane. Our largest block was 8.5 meters and it took 4 people to raise it, the others about 4 meters long we handled with 2 people, (Me and my husband). (Assuming you only need to raise the block and not move it).
Regarding "precision" as you mentioned, if the frame's diagonal measurement is correct and the base (slab) is level, the plasterboard stabilizes and the precision is just as good when the wall is raised as when it's lying down. (All prefab handles this)
I somewhat agree about weathered, you need to put plastic over the raised blocks to protect them.
/Nina
Regarding "precision" as you mentioned, if the frame's diagonal measurement is correct and the base (slab) is level, the plasterboard stabilizes and the precision is just as good when the wall is raised as when it's lying down. (All prefab handles this)
I somewhat agree about weathered, you need to put plastic over the raised blocks to protect them.
/Nina