Building Materials and Construction Technology
Norell: Hey and thanks. It's just regular roof plastic fastened with assembly screws.
JonasHolm: I thought it was the difference as well until I looked more closely at them at Bauhaus and there both the regular and GDS boards had a filling edge. /Jonas
Manberg: You should have what are called glidlister. I can't say offhand if there are ready-made ones, but in any case, it's a simple construction. My suggestion is to contact a carpenter, why not the one who built the house?! Where is the house built?
patrikr: Hello, What is meant by plåthörn and plåtvinkel? How do you mean they should be mounted then?
Pedda_P: Hello, we are not building a balcony at the start on the upper floor, where the future balcony will be, first two 60x130 windows will be installed, I have seen some kind of "blindplåt" that functions as a frame in the size that the balcony doors will constitute in the future, that way you avoid having to cut the panel and other things later and just lift out the entire frame so to speak, what is
Skandyla: Hello! My family and I have a large pool from J&F. The pool is 5.45 in diameter and 1.32 deep. The thing is, no one is coming to assemble it, and we don't want to tackle it ourselves. We had a guy from J&F, but he has backed out for various reasons. We want to swim before the summer is over. The trouble started when the company that was supposed to level the ground didn't show up for 5 weeks, and
Mats: For a very simple reason. I installed the sill first and had thus had to dig under the slab and screw through insulation, slab, and sill ;) I built entirely alone and couldn't have raised a whole wall at once, so I had to do it in such a way that I put the sill in place, assembled and aligned the corners, installed the nailing plate, and lastly set the wall studs.
lastkaj: Cut a piece of furubräda so that it fits the gap exactly and place it perpendicular to the other floorboards.
dejmon: or simply write down on a piece of paper where in height the shortling is located. ..//N
dejmon: I will buy 8*120mm nail plugs and hammer the sill with them! I'll tell you about the result! ..//N
dwedin: Thank you for the quick response... The house is a 1½-story from 1954 and has load-bearing walls on the lower floor, the load-bearing walls run from gable to gable... The roof slope is 38 degrees. I will consult an architect/engineer for an exact answer on whether this is possible to accomplish.
Milkshaken: Hello. I would probably try to break up the carpet there... for 2 reasons... 1: To prevent moisture from traveling from floor to wall. 2: Because, suppose you want to replace the carpet in a few years... it will be tricky to cut neatly and also to fit a new carpet tightly to the old existing one that is then under the brick...
bmx: I'm going to build up my walk-out basement with leca blocks and on top of that cast a concrete slab. The problem is that it needs to connect to my existing house where we've demolished the foundation wall (currently supported by steel beams and supports). I thought we would slide the lower slab under the existing sill and then build straight up so that my old house rests securely on the new slab
spikmas: I'm not exactly sure what you are looking for, but Rinkaby has an extension pipe for Upos 3-chamber well, diameter 40cm, length 1m. You could also consider a road culvert (in the same plastic material). However, as mats_o says, it can be difficult to get hold of shorter lengths.
007: Ok, thank you for the answers! There is a truss in the old gable, so the load from the roof should be distributed down to the long side walls. The heart wall will still support the floor structure approximately in the middle, that should be enough, right? The "framework" consists of a plank frame so it's not possible to see if it only supports itself or also serves as support for the floor
Manberg: Whether it holds or not doesn't really matter, because unless you're super sure that it holds, I would make sure to support, reinforce, or do anything to satisfy my concern about collapse. If you want permission to put up the aquarium, I would leave the insurance company out of it, however, if you're wondering if you'll get compensation if the aquarium hits the ground because the wall didn't
AndreasK: When I apply filler, I use a 20-25 cm wide filling knife. Fiber tape with adhesive and medium filler. I stick the tape over the joint, apply filler, and make sure to scrape it off so that filler remains only in the depression. I let this dry properly, apply a new layer, and do the same thing here, scrape it off thoroughly. Let it dry and then sand with 120-grit sandpaper. I hold the filling knife
dejmon: Hi Is there anyone here with experience of Skånska Byggvaror's overhead garage door http://www.skbv.se/index.cfm?Template=underkategori&ArtNr=PG-GP102&MainCat=K-GP I smell something fishy, it's so cheap! ..//N
Milkshaken: Here you will surely find what you are looking for... http://www.google.se/search?q=rygg%C3%A5stak&start=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:sv-SE:official google is fantastic... :D :o
Magnus_Nordmark: What does the supplier say? ::) It could be a good path to start on, not least to have something to lean on insurance-wise..
Milkshaken: Personally, I never nail into the tongue, as it's difficult to fix the next board since the board being nailed is pressed downward... I usually nail visibly, for example with finishing nails, or alternatively place a cover over it... I also first only nail the "Rear" nails, meaning those located at the rear edge against the preceding board... then when I've nailed the next REAR, I nail the front
Magnus_Nordmark: Points of purchase for "standard shoes" I don't know. The principle, however, is that it should be a plate, in your case preferably about 120x120x12mm with some welded-on rebar sticking into the concrete. If you can't find anything ready-made, contact the nearest welder or blacksmith.
Milkshaken: I would not want to get rid of asphalt,,, think about winter for example,, how practical,,,, Snowblower without problems ,,,,more than half the job done then, in summer you avoid having to remove weeds that grow up in gravel etc...
Fasting65: Yes, you can do that, but it's not right... 8-)
janne67: Hello! I'm planning to buy some glulam beams and columns for my deck construction and was thinking of purchasing from Skånska Byggvaror as they are a bit cheaper than, for example, Willab Trädgård. Does anyone have any opinion on the quality (if there's anything that differs from Willab Trädgård)?
GoForIt: If the wall is acceptably straight, looks okay, and doesn't have any cracks or marks from old water damage or similar issues, there's no reason to do more than just spackling and painting. However, if the walls are made of something like Tretex material (which is a porous form of wood fiberboard) and perhaps have been wallpapered a few times and have a crack in a seam, the quickest and simplest
GoForIt: Spontaneously, in my opinion, the house's value significantly decreases with such issues that need to be addressed. I think 200,000 is a low estimate. Who knows what might come up? Alternatively, demand that the seller rectifies it before the sale?
ppalm: It's called pannkitt and can be found at plumbing stores, retailers of stoves, or if you're lucky, a chemical/paint shop might have it.
Mats: Drove just 2.25 on the slab, there were two of us plus the driver and it would have been good with one more person, then we would have kept pace with how quickly he could unload.
Mats: Also like double-sided. However, you need to keep an eye out to get good timber for this type of panel, otherwise, it can be a bit tricky with long boards.