Building Materials and Construction Technology
norrlandshus_sthlm: the advantage is that you can make the wall studs in one piece all the way up to the wall plate... and you can get much more insulation since the studs can be made virtually as high as you want :)
gromit42x: I live in Stuvsta and have prima masses (rock and a little concrete) from a drainage project that you are welcome to take.
Harre: Need to replace patio doors. Need tips and advice on stylish and secure patio doors. What do you think we should choose if we have the following requirements: * They should match the house * They should be secure Come with tips (preferably with pictures)
Milkshaken: steel beam or factory-made....Lecabalk is my choice.... a steel beam often needs more insulation, and that can be tricky, for example, high risk of thermal bridges,,,, I would probably go for a lecabalk if the concrete factory can guarantee its strength..... It's very easy to convert a lecabak to finished space... just take plaster putty,,,(cheap) and do what you want with the surface....
Mats: I reinforced almost the entire wall. There's a few dm missing in the corners because that was the length of lumber I had at home.
Detblirnogbra: The opening has been made and (almost) completed for some time now, and it went without any problems. I followed the tip with a temporary rule on one side, but on the other side (90 cm to the house corner) I used flat steel and French screws that are now permanently behind a plasterboard. During the work, I noticed that those who once timbered had used quite a few dymlingar to hold the logs in
GoForIt: Biltema www.biltema.se is usually hard to beat when it comes to the price of screws. I know several professional carpenters who now buy almost all their screws there.
hajof70: Now maybe this might be a thread hijack but... If you have an older house where the floor has been broken up and you're just going to cast a new one on top of new drainage and insulation (about 25 sqm), does 5*200mm work? There, you can't really talk about any load, right?!
Fein: Start by raising the corners. Secure with 90*90 angles as well as braces. Attach a couple of studs to each wall and then place the wall plate. If you are building the wall on the ground and need to raise it, you will need help, otherwise, it doesn't really matter. The advantage of building on the ground is that you can nail the studs underneath the sill.
gds4me: [citat] There are drilling templates available for purchase... I am going to install a couple of window vents and there are ready-made metal templates for that. Ask where you bought the vents...
dalle: [citat] There are nail plugs that are perfect for this, I have used them for mineral board against chimneys. I unfortunately don't remember exactly what they were called, but ask at the hardware store.
Snurre: I have a friend who has used it. He thought, just like you, that it was perfect to avoid stepping around in the rebar. He clicked the underfloor heating pipe into special tracks and also avoided fastening it to the rebar. However, it's more expensive than regular concrete because iron fiber is added at the concrete station. So I suggest you check with them again. Normally, it's cheaper to
Milkshaken: I am 1.90 meters tall and have learned to duck... :):) But anyway. I find it a bit charming with lower door frames, the ceiling in our basement will, for example, be about 1.92 .... so there will be spotlights in those ceilings... :)
flundra: Hello, I am planning to build a fence along our property line that faces a walkway. I am thinking of placing 70 cm plinths about 2 m apart. Now I am considering what dimension I should have for the posts that I will set in the plinths. I am thinking of 70x70 or 95x95. Is there anyone who has an opinion on this matter? /Fredrik
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50317/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Milkshaken: Is RAWLNUT still on the market? If so, use it because it's really simple and also waterproof...
elof: [citat] wrong no, it depends entirely on which brand you use... that's why you should ALWAYS read on your specific bottle, not take a general advice. Here's what it says on the one I have in my car... "Instructions for use: The surfaces to be glued must be clean but not dry. The surfaces should have 12 - 20 % moisture, which can be moistened with a sponge or cloth. At least one surface should be
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=4662/0]Pool[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Yzerman_19: Thank you! Then I have some idea of how much one can generally expect. /Y19
Niq: If you're going to make cuts in the tiles, I think it's easiest with an angle grinder with a diamond blade. And if there needs to be a hole, I believe a drill works best. Jigsaw blades work well on tiles that aren't too hard, but on my hard tiles, they didn't work.
Fein: "Fein, it's not the self-weight of the top chords that's critical. The biggest impact comes from snow, wind, and the self-weight of the entire construction, i.e., panel, insulation, paper, sheet metal, or tiles." No, I understand that. The thing is, the roof trusses on the house are built as in the picture, with the difference that the top chords are 15*150 and they've held up for 40 years. Now I
Styx: Avoiding long joints will be incredibly easy... For example, install the first chipboard whole (120 wide) and cut the first plasterboard (60). After that, it will solve itself. However, I'm not so sure that it's always applied on construction sites... More than once, I've seen plasterboard screwed in wherever it fits if there is Plyfa/OSB underneath... It's not easy to feel if the screw grips
anaitis: You can order concrete with steel fiber or polypropylene reinforcement. Steel fiber reinforcement can replace or complement the traditional reinforcement. Reinforcement with polypropylene is mostly used to reduce the amount/size of shrinkage cracks that can occur during the curing process.
andersmc: Absolutely! http://www.moelventoreboda.se/ Go to the menu option Program and you'll find it there.