Building Materials and Construction Technology
zankan: The assembly is self-explanatory;-) Take a look at your kitchen drawers or alternatively dresser drawers with these types of fittings. Otherwise, the fixed part is attached to the framework, and the movable part to the drawer... If you are making the drawer yourself, use, for example, 4-6 mm plywood... in 2 layers for the side piece... In the second layer, make a recess for the fitting...
Skogsbananen: But he wants the concrete as the surface. That should work, but you probably need fiber-reinforced concrete in such thin layers. Then you must have a moisture barrier underneath, of course. The load-bearing capacity is probably not a problem because, as you said, concrete doesn't weigh more than tiles. Maybe it will be safer if you take a slightly thicker layer of concrete? To minimize the risk
Milkshaken: We painted the gipsbruket with light gray paint, which was neutral and moderately cozy. Forgot to mention that I also brushed with a murarborste to get the texture.
M@ZE: Hjalmar, just a small question: Why don't you place the boxes so they start right above the baseboard, then you won't have that seam at least. And then you could build up the sides so you can use rails instead, like the ones you have on large kitchen drawers? Could be an idea indeed. But otherwise, thanks for the inspiration, as I'm currently thinking about how to have pull-out drawers to utilize
Mats: Can only suggest an alternative tip for a folding door. They can be adjusted slightly in width.
Meta9: Hi Andersr, if you are really meticulous when building, plumb line, then you don't need more than 5 to 10 mm plaster. Use plaster mortar c.
MathiasS: Read these two threads about the transition to a new forum: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=VIKTIGT Best regards, MathiasS
Manberg: Nice cabinet! Regarding the rhyme, Förvaring -raring? Hope she will be happy! Merry Christmas!
Linnex: [citat] Thanks for the answer. I will test. If it doesn't work well, it's easy to remove :)
Kai_Lundgren: Yes, the two supports are placed right under the joints of two of the roof beams. And indeed, diagonal braces would at least increase the exposed floor space, but it would be great if the entire floor space could be free and you could swing around a full-length board :-) Planning to use this barn section as a workshop.) Kai
Manberg: [citat] If you had problems with bluing, it was towards the end of June, July, and onwards, right?
Mats: The wind membrane is not moisture-proof from the inside out, only from the outside in, according to what I have learned, so it should sort itself out.
Linnex: Interior walls should not be covered with plastic. Therefore, you should install plastic on the ceiling and exterior walls BEFORE nailing up the interior walls to have the plastic completely covering them. Plastic is placed on the inside of exterior walls/ceiling to prevent warm air from pushing through, cooling down, and condensing, which causes moisture problems.
Manberg: http://www.blocket.se/vi/10390434.htm?ca=2_s There you have a beautiful house, looked straight and nice, and the roofline was good so the roof has probably held up and still holds.. You can take down the shell of a log house in a maximum of 2 days including windows and doors, if there are floors, shavings, and chimney it will take longer, also paneling etc etc etc.. Yes, you understand, good luck.
Manberg: You probably need to provide more information such as: Is it an unstarted project (new log building) or is it an old log house that you've taken down or is there an old one already on site? In other words, where are you in the process? A follow-up question to that is what kind of foundation is it? If you're casting a foundation, it's just a matter of laying down heating coils. If it's a crawl
Ingenjören: Even a facade brick wall (skin wall) is load-bearing in the sense that it supports itself. If you simply increase the width of the opening without reinforcing above the opening, the wall will crack above the opening and the stones will fall down. If the opening does not become very large and the loads above are not too unfavorable, you can insert reinforcement afterwards in the bed joint or embed
ylven: [citat] I can't really say if a hjärtvägg is by definition load-bearing, but I would assume so. A hjärtvägg is a wall situated more or less in the middle of the house, so it would be fitting for it to be a load-bearing wall ;-)
Mikael_L: Welcome to the forum! I assume you have insulation in the outer roof, above the upper floor. I would seal all the outer walls and the outer roof with plastic, completely tight and carefully. I would consider sealing in the intermediate floor IF I suspected I wanted to keep various vapors and exhaust fumes away from the upper floor. If there were to be some form of living space (e.g., guest room,
Valbobygge: I am going to soundproof a floor structure by first laying a ground board of stone wool (formerly called an elephant mat) and then 22 mm floating chipboard on top. I want to avoid adding too much height. Previously, there were 30 mm ground boards, but today I can only find 50 mm. The ground boards I am looking for are made of stone wool, quite heavy with a high density of about 150 kg/m3. I need
Bjarredsbon: Hello forum! A few days ago, there was a leak from the ceiling on the upper floor - never a pleasant discovery! So I took down the ceiling from the inside and located the problem. Some weatherproofing outside and the immediate danger was over... The leak turned out to have been there for a long time (completely black and rotten wood) and limited to about 1x0.5 meters. The persistent rain lately
magbl: Yes, that's true, it came with flat ground mounts that were about 20x40mm I saw, they should do just fine!
styrman1: I was wrong! The Kortplanken is 12.5mm. I apologize. The only one I find that is 9mm is Woodroc. Could that be the one you have?
Skogsbananen: Would also have trimmed a bit at the back of the board if it couldn't be done without.
fat_dady: [citat] Could it be that it should be between the outer frames... I also think that I have c/c 100, except at the chimney where it is longer/shorter depending on whether you include the incomplete roof truss in the middle or not...
snickar_lasse: hey! someone asked why list? ideally, you should avoid list here, but now list is needed. the ceiling moulding still doesn't match with the moulding you plan to install, so you might as well put a small cover moulding. there are probably other alternatives, but this is one.