I have an internal wall made of siporex. It is plastered with gypsum (I think) and then wallpapered. Most of the wallpaper can be removed.
I want to glue OSB to the existing wall and then screw gypsum, this to avoid having to plug every time something needs to go up on the wall.
What kind of adhesive should be used for this? Perhaps gypsum?
I want to glue OSB to the existing wall and then screw gypsum, this to avoid having to plug every time something needs to go up on the wall.
What kind of adhesive should be used for this? Perhaps gypsum?
Is the wall sandy where there is no wallpaper?
I would think it is possible to glue with ardex S-48.
If it is sandy, a little primer might be needed first.
If the wallpaper is loose, it must be removed.
It might be possible to use setting glue if you can
get some type of nail plug to attach the panel with.
Sometimes we use setting glue and screws with chipboard screws
directly into the lightweight wall. It depends a bit on what type of
wall it is for it to work. Slag brick wall can be done this way.
Regards, Putte
I would think it is possible to glue with ardex S-48.
If it is sandy, a little primer might be needed first.
If the wallpaper is loose, it must be removed.
It might be possible to use setting glue if you can
get some type of nail plug to attach the panel with.
Sometimes we use setting glue and screws with chipboard screws
directly into the lightweight wall. It depends a bit on what type of
wall it is for it to work. Slag brick wall can be done this way.
Regards, Putte
No, it's not sandy.
The biggest problem is probably that a lot of the wallpaper seems to stay on the wall, and it's difficult to remove the last layer of paper. It doesn't really matter if it becomes a bit uneven when I remove this, but I assume it's inappropriate to glue over a thin layer of paper.
Attaching the board after gluing is not a problem - either it holds with coarse screws or, if it becomes troublesome, I can drive screws across the wall.....
Thanks for the tip.
The biggest problem is probably that a lot of the wallpaper seems to stay on the wall, and it's difficult to remove the last layer of paper. It doesn't really matter if it becomes a bit uneven when I remove this, but I assume it's inappropriate to glue over a thin layer of paper.
Attaching the board after gluing is not a problem - either it holds with coarse screws or, if it becomes troublesome, I can drive screws across the wall.....
Thanks for the tip.
I would need some wise advice regarding the choice of adhesive for this work.
Maxit suggests using Serpo 616. The wallpaper must be completely removed, which is not a problem, and 616 also handles the movement in the OSB.
Of course, S48 can also be used.
The problem with both of these products is that I will be putting up 35 panels on the wall and it requires about 200kg of Serpo 616. Both S48 and Serpo 616 are more expensive than gold.
Are there any alternative products that are more cost-effective? It should probably still be a product of the same type as these two.
Maxit suggests using Serpo 616. The wallpaper must be completely removed, which is not a problem, and 616 also handles the movement in the OSB.
Of course, S48 can also be used.
The problem with both of these products is that I will be putting up 35 panels on the wall and it requires about 200kg of Serpo 616. Both S48 and Serpo 616 are more expensive than gold.
Are there any alternative products that are more cost-effective? It should probably still be a product of the same type as these two.
In the future, I will be gluing plasterboard to Leca, which is roughly the same conditions (http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=41593)
Considering the price, I think you should test glue about ~1/2 m2 with, for example, plaster glue, PL600, cheap tile adhesive from Byggmax, etc., then you can test how firmly the boards really stick
Considering the price, I think you should test glue about ~1/2 m2 with, for example, plaster glue, PL600, cheap tile adhesive from Byggmax, etc., then you can test how firmly the boards really stick
Gypsum adhesive might work if it were just gypsum. However, OSB does move, so it becomes more difficult.
A suitable mounting adhesive might work, but the question is for how long.... It would be unfortunate if 70 panels fall to the floor in a couple of years.
A suitable mounting adhesive might work, but the question is for how long.... It would be unfortunate if 70 panels fall to the floor in a couple of years.
Yes, you are making it quite difficult for yourself by using OSB. If it had been plasterboard directly on Siporex or Ytong, you would attach it with the cheapest type of tile adhesive. During the gluing, pull the boards in with 1-krona nail plugs from byggmax. Cheap and easy. The only downside is that it is 100% impossible to remove the board in the future without tearing down half the wall.
Nailing into Siporex and Ytong works perfectly fine with regular galvanized nails. In the past, entire kitchen installations were done with regular nails directly into the lightweight concrete. Such things were never plugged.
A tip if you need to plug into lightweight concrete, drill with a wood drill bit with a point. Use a 5mm drill for a 6mm plug, a 7mm drill for an 8mm plug, and so on... Then you don't need expensive special plugs, regular cheapo or nail plugs work perfectly. Hammer the nail plug in without the screw, then tap in the screw and it sits firmly.
Regards
Nailing into Siporex and Ytong works perfectly fine with regular galvanized nails. In the past, entire kitchen installations were done with regular nails directly into the lightweight concrete. Such things were never plugged.
A tip if you need to plug into lightweight concrete, drill with a wood drill bit with a point. Use a 5mm drill for a 6mm plug, a 7mm drill for an 8mm plug, and so on... Then you don't need expensive special plugs, regular cheapo or nail plugs work perfectly. Hammer the nail plug in without the screw, then tap in the screw and it sits firmly.
Regards
Yes, thanks, I've realized that. :somelvis said:
I'm considering whether a combination might be best. Gypsum directly on Siporex where it's unlikely anything will be attached to the wall, OSB behind where you know a lot will be screwed in (for example, in the daughter's room).If it had been gypsum directly on Siporex or Ytong, you would use the cheapest kind of tile adhesive. While gluing, you secure the boards with 1 krona nail plugs from byggmax.
Cheap and simple. The only downside is that it's 100% impossible to remove the board in the future without demolishing half of the wall.
Nailing into Siporex and Ytong works perfectly fine with regular galvanized nails.
In the past, entire kitchen interiors were installed with regular nails directly into the light concrete.
Such things were never plugged.
A tip if you're going to plug into light concrete, drill with a wood bit with a tip.
Use a 5mm bit for a 6mm plug, 7mm bit for an 8mm plug, and so on...
Then you don't need expensive special plugs, regular cheapo or nail plugs work perfectly.
Nail plugs are tapped in without the screw, then you drive in the screw and it holds Satana.
Regards
Cheap nail plugs might be a good solution where you will have OSB behind, maybe in combination with some mounting adhesive.
I refuse to nail things directly into Siporex. Some things hold really well, but sometimes it doesn't hold at all.
Glue with mounting adhesive and screw in regular grabber drywall screws that hold great.
MathiasS said:I have an interior wall made of siporex. It's plastered with gypsum plaster (I believe) and then wallpapered. Most of the wallpaper can be removed.
I want to glue OSB to the existing wall and then screw drywall, to avoid having to plug each time something needs to go up on the wall.
What kind of glue do you use for this? Maybe gypsum plaster?
I give up.
There will be no OSB on the siporex walls. I inventoried the possible number of attachment points for pictures, shelves, and other stuff and realized that the additional cost of putting up OSB, including the OSB board itself, is not proportional to either the labor or material cost.
The best price I found for Serpo 616 was 330sek for 9kg. Disappointing when needing 150kg.
It will be gypsum directly on the siporex.
There will be no OSB on the siporex walls. I inventoried the possible number of attachment points for pictures, shelves, and other stuff and realized that the additional cost of putting up OSB, including the OSB board itself, is not proportional to either the labor or material cost.
The best price I found for Serpo 616 was 330sek for 9kg. Disappointing when needing 150kg.
It will be gypsum directly on the siporex.
It feels completely unnecessary to put boards on aerated concrete walls. Part of the idea with aerated concrete is ONE homogenous material. No problems with moisture, etc. Just spackle and weave/wallpaper. Where you hang lighter things (e.g. paintings, small mirrors, etc.), a regular old-fashioned X-hook works very well. Heavier items naturally require a suitable plug, but those are available!
I think people have become a bit obsessed with this OSB/chipboard behind plasterboard. What do you really have on your walls? Dumbbell racks or mounts for the piano when you clean?!?
Normal loads (like interiors, cabinets, etc.) are no problem to handle, washbasins might be a problem if you're missing the studs there, but it's always solvable...
I think people have become a bit obsessed with this OSB/chipboard behind plasterboard. What do you really have on your walls? Dumbbell racks or mounts for the piano when you clean?!?
Normal loads (like interiors, cabinets, etc.) are no problem to handle, washbasins might be a problem if you're missing the studs there, but it's always solvable...
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