Building Materials and Construction Technology
magbl: Thanks for the suggestion. However, I don't think the chimney sweep will approve gypsum against the stove since there should be a firewall there. What I'm planning to do now is first plaster the chimney stack with serpo 224 mortar, then build with aerated concrete blocks (50x400x600mm) using the same mortar with extra adhesive that strengthens the joint between the chimney stack and the aerated
Mats: They can be quite practical sometimes, but if you need to hang up something heavy then concrete isn't a bad idea.
Milkshaken: The thing is, you have to think a bit LATERALLY.... Like several steps ahead and try to envision the finished result before you've even bought anything. Very difficult to determine here which would look best for you, just a thing like how you lay panels, boards, etc., can completely change the character of a room.... Post some pictures if you want, so we can at least see a bit....
Linnex: I don't know if the simplest and best option is to have 1 1/2 floors. If you go with option 2, you'll have the wall studs ready right away for insulation and cladding. As a complete solution, I think I would prefer option 2. Personally, I have a one-story house, and I placed the roof truss on the top plate... but there is no need to insulate and clad it on the inside.
MrMagic: Roland System in Malmö manufactures custom-sized with wheels at the bottom that roll on an aluminum strip and a guide rail at the top with brushes that seal. Purchased a batch of 5 doors, 3.35 wide and 2.50 high, all with mirrors. Cost just over 9´ complete excluding installation. Much more stable things than others I have looked at in the building markets.
Mats: It is highly recommended, as mentioned. A good hilti and you will experience the concrete as any handy wooden wall to drill into.
Ingenjören: Try contacting Formica http://formica.vegasys.net/ They might know where individuals can shop? /Ingenjören
TorpAnders: Place them in a bucket with oil overnight, then you can drive them into the bottom of the post bracket without worry for your lifetime! Here is a little advanced course in real wood impregnation... ;) If you ask for advice in ten different stores, you're likely to get ten different answers. Few of them actually know. The proof is the enormous amounts of cheap "wood oil" that usually contain 70%
Milkshaken: I still think that one usually starts from the top and works down. So fix the roof first, then the walls, and lastly the floor. That’s the order you typically follow.
Milkshaken: the soot hatch is there. The soot hatch is used by the chimney sweeper of course....
hempularen: Solid tongue and groove wood in exterior walls used to be standard here in the past. Our house was built in 1930. The exterior walls and the main interior wall are made of solid wood. Vertical tongue and groove planks approximately 45mm thick. However, without insulation, which you are apparently supposed to get.
nattugglan11: [citat] Hello! Thanks for the response! I'm careful and living alone, I splash very little water, haven't really cooked in my kitchen, being a young bachelor ;.) So the crack didn't appear because I splashed water!...but because the wood is alive as you say, and perhaps because I fixed the board too tightly. I will drill the screw holes in the frame a bit larger so the board can move. Hard wax
cy_berg: Hello! I have an old Skånelänga from the mid-1800s. It's a half-timbered house where the panels are filled with brick. The stones are mortared with lime mortar as far as I can see (very soft/porous compared to regular cement mortar, for example). We need to re-mortar the brick on one gable, and the question is: What type of mortar should I use? Is there any reason to use lime mortar? It would
jockefors: hello.... is there anyone on a shopping trip to Poland who can check some prices on water radiators, copper pipes, and solder fittings, that is, the old-fashioned type or is there any online store similar to Rinkaby Rör where one can check Jocke
ByggPutte: Prices maybe they have at the hardware stores. Best regards, Putte
Milkshaken: Thank you Martin, it is indeed. :)
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=17215/0]Facade[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted8/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
somelvis: In my experience, fix is softer than grout. Fix is grainier and not very attractive. Grout, on the other hand, is a very fine "flour" and becomes very hard compared to fix, which should be able to move. They probably don't have quite the same properties. When it comes to hobby products, you should use fix + grout. But there are professional products where you grout with the same compound in one
Milkshaken: :) Fun start to a thread..:) Yes, the best thing for you is to ask around at different places what the beam should cost. However, you need to see for yourself what solutions are available to you, steel, brick, or glulam beam. Check it out and then you call around.
Milkshaken: If you're going to apply DILATIONSFOG, I don't think there's anything special about the execution. You place a thin insulation board between the old and new construction at each joint where needed. The insulation is primarily for preventing cold drafts and retaining heat... If you make the new construction standalone, you can handle the joint elegantly, and you can conceal the seal with something
Milkshaken: That could be the case, yes. Very good pictures, however, what I wrote remains that you have to improvise when you're there... Good luck elektra.
Sparrow79: HELLO! Don't forget gilding paper or something similar between the beam and the bruk!!! The bruk is very hard on the wood!
BAN: Hello! Saw on TV5 (Till salu) that they "porfyllde" a concrete floor indoors. It looked shiny and dust-free. I'm considering if this could be something for a garage. Should the floor be sanded first and what do you fill with? Cost? DIY job? Anyone who knows and has experience with durability etc.?
DrKassler: Hello! Tonight we're going to try to get the glulam beam in place. We've cut out a support for the beam of about 20 cm in the concrete wall, but we will also support it with poles at both ends of the beam. How do you secure this safely and, above all, nicely???? The ends on the inside of the kitchen will be clad with drywall, so we thought of putting mounting plates between the beam and pole
digitalrobert: ylven: I agree with you that it sounds strange, I sent a question to Länsförsäkringar today to get confirmation that it is this way - I will get back with an answer. Häxhusrustarn: thanks for the answer. A carpenter said the same thing but added that to be safe you should apply some mold-preventive agent, for example boracol, on the wood that has been exposed to moisture.
Mats: Here they have used only chipboard and they are placed block to block (which makes the plastering a challenge). Just nailed in the usual way.
nattugglan11: [citat] thanks, hmmm, okay, but how can you make a bathtub out of this? you'd need a milling model "alien" if you are to mill a hole you can bathe in. This still must be castable, right?
zachris: This was an interesting thread for someone who has just "discovered" concrete slabs. I received the figure 1000 SEK/m2 (including VAT) when I asked people about the cost and it seems to align with the revised calculation that Mr. Z presented. One thing I am wondering about is whether on the first floor you need to build a ceiling or if you can simply paint directly onto the concrete? Like AoA, I