Hello!
Planning to clad the exterior walls of the house with gypsum and possibly a layer of OSB behind it for screwing.
The walls consist of rendered light/blue concrete, and I plan to put a layer of building foil behind the gypsum to block out some of the radon present in the wall.
What is the best method for attaching the gypsum to the wall?
/Jonas
Planning to clad the exterior walls of the house with gypsum and possibly a layer of OSB behind it for screwing.
The walls consist of rendered light/blue concrete, and I plan to put a layer of building foil behind the gypsum to block out some of the radon present in the wall.
What is the best method for attaching the gypsum to the wall?
/Jonas
If I place plastic in the wall here (with siporex in the wall) it will definitely end up between the OSB and the drywall. I don't really see any problems with that because there is no moisture to enclose. In a heated house, it must be extremely rare (impossible?) for moisture to be transported from outside to inside.mats_o said:
Summertime, turned-off heaters, north side, homesickness....mats_o said:summertime with turned-off heaters?
I read a bit carelessly because I read concrete and thought moisture. There is actually concrete without moisture problems
Nah, I'm just guessing but it seems completely unreasonable that there would be a problem. No way wooden walls with plastic inside are going to rot!
Well, you know how it's done on the other side of the wall, so just do the same on the inside but avoid the very thickest plug... If I can't find any adhesive at a reasonable price, I might have to use plugs here too (facade plugs), but the smallest ones.Jonas_H said:
Understand your desire to do something about the radon.
But is this really the right way to go?
Have you started by fixing the ventilation?
It is possible to achieve significantly large reductions in radon levels from blåbetong by installing an F or FTX system with high flow.
One should also not forget that the indoor climate improves with an FTX system.
Not terribly expensive. I’d estimate 30-35 thousand with self-installation in a standard house.
Then you also recover the energy from the exhaust air so it becomes almost self-financing.
Regards
But is this really the right way to go?
Have you started by fixing the ventilation?
It is possible to achieve significantly large reductions in radon levels from blåbetong by installing an F or FTX system with high flow.
One should also not forget that the indoor climate improves with an FTX system.
Not terribly expensive. I’d estimate 30-35 thousand with self-installation in a standard house.
Then you also recover the energy from the exhaust air so it becomes almost self-financing.
Regards
Hello!
I will install an FTX in the house, but it feels right to try and keep out as much radon as possible...
Is this completely wrong thinking? The wall is a solid lightweight concrete wall that is plastered both on the inside and outside. The wall will be additionally insulated on the outside and will be clad with wood paneling.
Regarding fastening the boards, I am considering lightweight concrete screws from Essve... They seem a bit more convenient than the facade plugs...
/Jonas
I will install an FTX in the house, but it feels right to try and keep out as much radon as possible...
Is this completely wrong thinking? The wall is a solid lightweight concrete wall that is plastered both on the inside and outside. The wall will be additionally insulated on the outside and will be clad with wood paneling.
Regarding fastening the boards, I am considering lightweight concrete screws from Essve... They seem a bit more convenient than the facade plugs...
/Jonas
I absolutely would not have done your project.
Do a measurement after the FTX installation and assess it from there.
There are virtually no successful and generally accepted methods to keep radon out from building materials.
You will get a lot of work, a lot of costs, and an effect that is hardly cost-effective, and if you are unlucky, it might not even be noticeable.
No, the proven and effective way is ventilation.
Plus, the fact that it's the least complicated doesn't make it worse.
Best regards
Do a measurement after the FTX installation and assess it from there.
There are virtually no successful and generally accepted methods to keep radon out from building materials.
You will get a lot of work, a lot of costs, and an effect that is hardly cost-effective, and if you are unlucky, it might not even be noticeable.
No, the proven and effective way is ventilation.
Plus, the fact that it's the least complicated doesn't make it worse.
Best regards
The problem is that the FTX aggregate should be installed after the renovation work on the outer walls.
If I don't install the plastic sheeting from the start, it won't get done...
The question is, do I dare to take a chance on skipping the plastic. :-/
/Jonas
If I don't install the plastic sheeting from the start, it won't get done...
The question is, do I dare to take a chance on skipping the plastic. :-/
/Jonas
Well... I'm skeptical. Various experiments have been conducted with dense paints, plastics, and radon wallpapers. The manufacturers claim to succeed in a lab environment, making it work relatively well, but I haven't heard of a single case out in the real world where it has worked satisfactorily :-/
The main problem is that it doesn't become sufficiently tight. Against the actual gamma radiation, it has no effect at all.
Sure, you can try, but it must be weighed against the work/material investment and the risk of potential moisture problems. If you go ahead with your project, make sure to seal joints and penetrations tightly, etc.
The main problem is that it doesn't become sufficiently tight. Against the actual gamma radiation, it has no effect at all.
Sure, you can try, but it must be weighed against the work/material investment and the risk of potential moisture problems. If you go ahead with your project, make sure to seal joints and penetrations tightly, etc.