Building Materials and Construction Technology
jon_h: Asfaboard is not in any way moisture-sensitive. It is a wood panel. Not a good idea.
klaskarlsson: [citat] Sure, but if you have a whole steel disc or at least two "steel beams" that you can attach with several bolts to the underlying wooden beam, that should hold. The arm length of the table is, say, 2 m, and it should withstand 200 kg - that gives approximately 200*10*2 = 4000 nm If you attach the table at four points (you should have more), two above and two below at maximum distance and in
fn76: Yes, that sounds like a good solution, to lower it from above. Get help from some people so you don't hurt your back. Thick blankets to slide it down the stairs on are also good. Good luck!
pinebar: A fair amount has been written here about Eternit before. Search for Eternit using the search function and you shall find. A quick summary: 1) DO NOT inhale the dust. 2) It can be disposed of at the dump. Most dumps require that it be packed in double plastic bags and marked with Asbestos. Call and check what applies at your dump. 3) It is not dangerous where it sits. It is only the dust that is
jon_h: Other disadvantages are that you usually have a thin plaster coating on the outside of the house, which is quite vulnerable compared to a plastered stone wall, and you lose much of the heat storage capacity of a stone house since you have insulation inside the concrete. It would be better to have foam in the middle and concrete on both sides. But then you lose the rational construction method.
Modig: Thanks for all the tips! I'm getting a better and better idea of what we should look for/think about:)
Mats_Andersson: [citat] Yes, I have done that too, but based on previous experiences, I'm not so sure I will get any answers (I haven't had contact with Hjältevadshus before, but I have with other manufacturers from whom I have sought drawings). /Mats
Lagavulin: Then the branches of the pine are more devilish when it comes to coverage during topcoating. In other words, advantage spruce! Magnus
moorflax: No, it won't support that much. It's a house with about 80 sqm of space, and I have removed two walls between the kitchen, guest room, and living room. The beam is about 5 meters long and made of 1" x 4". I have stacked 5 boards on top of each other, and it's currently under tension since yesterday morning. Do you think that's enough, or do I need to add more boards, planed and dry timber? lilla
BlackDragon: Ok, thank you so much for all the answers, my murstock is from the 1920s and the bjälklaget already lies against it, so there should be no problems, but it's only one layer of brick around it, i.e., 10 cm brick + 1-2 cm plaster.
susanne_ua: Hello! We live in an Elementhus built in 1968. In the areas where there is a lot of foot traffic (especially a passageway in the kitchen), the floor has started to give way quite worryingly. If someone walks there, you can see each step in the basement below. The floor, which consists of the somewhat special Elementhus framework, clearly needs reinforcement. Does anyone have experience or
ByggPutte: If there are problems with the height for water-borne systems, you can look at Optiheat, and there are surely other thin solutions available. We use Epscement a lot at work. Best regards, Putte
Ardexsmitten: Stena Stål, found all over Sweden Stena Stål AB, a nationwide steel wholesaler and leading in custom-cut sheet metal
Mats: It should be enough, but it really depends on what lengths they happen to have at the lumberyard. The best thing you can do (in my experience) is to calculate how many pieces you need of each length and then go to the lumberyard and do a bit of puzzle-solving.
klaskarlsson: [citat] There are no legal issues. You might want to build so that the electrical cabinet isn't, for example, under water connections and such though :) Normally, pipes shouldn't leak, but if you need to repair, it might drip or splash a bit when you open them, so from a practical standpoint, it might be good if you separate it a bit with a screen/partition or just have a good distance between
jon_h: Because spackel is very weak, it can support paint or wallpaper, not ceramics.
ama3282: Anyone have a good tip for a basement staircase for our new basement. We're looking for a simple, durable straight staircase.
ltz: Perhaps a slightly strange question. As I understand it, it's a bit more cumbersome to run electricity in the brick blocks, with the additional milling step and so on. Is it okay to run VP pipes or even flex pipes embedded in the slab for the most obvious runs that need to be made? I think I've seen this on some casting site, any aspects regarding this?
Chinaski: [citat] Thanks for your tip, but the kind of floor chipboard I have available must be spliced over a joist according to the manufacturer. Incidentally, I just found this: Spikad skarv med trälaskar - TräGuiden Simple method with extensive calculations... I think I will follow their description with 1000mm pieces on each side.
slaskman: Consider a straight staircase, that way you can carry anything into the basement in the future. I've maneuvered everything from safes to mopeds down a curved staircase and cursed my father for not making the staircase straight. If you're even smarter, you build your straight staircase so you can use it as a grease pit.
NettanUlrik: Hello, I have an old oil tank storage that is up against one long side of the house. It's quite a solid roof, about 12 cm concrete and lightweight concrete walls. My question is whether the house wall is supported by this storage? Of course, the house comes first and then the oil tank storage, but should one exercise caution? The concrete slab on the storage is attached with some kind of edge
ByggaNytt: The foundation for the wall was cast with the last (garage slab) from the concrete truck: Index of /images/byggahus/tomt/mur
trojlee: it's difficult to take pictures... there's still some snow up here in the north :). Sure, the house is old, but I'm in the process of renovating it as well. There are cracks here and there, and if I'm going to fix it, it would be desirable to "smooth coat" or whatever you do so the entire staircase has the same shade. It is located on the property because there is a level difference of ~1
jv12: Hello, The architect who designed my house has suggested that the attachment of a glulam beam to the outer wall should simply be cast into the wall (I have foam/ concrete walls). From what I've heard, it's not a good idea to cast wooden details into concrete. Admittedly, there is insulation outside, but the concrete is wet initially. Are glulam beams treated in any way? The beam is supposed to
Marlen Eskilsson: Maybe, I will check! Thank you very much for the good answers so far.
mull: I discovered that it actually says on the plug packaging which drill and screw to use. Convenient. I've never noticed it before, but then again, I've only used plugs 1-2 times myself :P The wall was light concrete and the tool board is rock solid. Thanks for the answers :)