Hi, I am in the process of renovating the kitchen and now I've revealed the masonry chimney because I want to install an old wood stove in the kitchen (as there was before in the same hole in the chimney). And now I've read a bit that there needs to be at least 10 cm between the chimney and combustible material, but when I've unveiled my chimney, there's wood against the chimney as it has been since the house was built (around 1920). Now I'm wondering if I really have to tear down all the walls around the chimney and rebuild the whole house to be able to use the wood stove..? And recently, the chimney has been enclosed by laying a board horizontally, then a board vertically, and covered with plasterboard...so I assume I have to remove that? Grateful for answers and different rules to consider?
Hello!
The simplest thing is, of course, to call the chimney sweep; he knows what applies. 10cm to combustible materials is certainly required, but as you say, the joists in old houses are partially against/built into the chimney.
We had to apply 10cm of fiberglass in conjunction with cellulose insulation of the cold attic, but that's because cellulose is not considered non-combustible, it's only treated with borate to prevent the spread of glowing embers. We were putting in a stove/tiled stove and then you must apply 10cm of fiberglass/rock wool around the chimney against the cellulose.
But the rest of the room's corner parts of the joists lie against the chimney.
I would give the chimney sweep a call, it costs nothing
Good luck
The simplest thing is, of course, to call the chimney sweep; he knows what applies. 10cm to combustible materials is certainly required, but as you say, the joists in old houses are partially against/built into the chimney.
We had to apply 10cm of fiberglass in conjunction with cellulose insulation of the cold attic, but that's because cellulose is not considered non-combustible, it's only treated with borate to prevent the spread of glowing embers. We were putting in a stove/tiled stove and then you must apply 10cm of fiberglass/rock wool around the chimney against the cellulose.
But the rest of the room's corner parts of the joists lie against the chimney.
I would give the chimney sweep a call, it costs nothing
Good luck
I have about the same problem, I need to set up partition walls against the chimney, no problem, just use metal studs, but then when the wall covering goes on, I want OSB and drywall, but what do you do with the 10 cm closest to the chimney? The OSB is 11mm thick and the drywall 13, so you can't just replace the innermost part with drywall! Or can you? Maybe a 2 mm difference doesn't matter?
Check with the chimney sweep, but I believe there is a distance to the smoke channel that applies. So if, for example, there is a wreath of bricks that the floor structure rests on, it would be OK.
But the brick itself in the chimney must be included in the distance somehow.
Say the chimney itself is 30cm, then it shouldn't be a problem. I have wooden studs directly on the chimney, and the chimney sweep didn't say anything about them when he approved my new stove in a flue that hadn't been used for burning before.
Say the chimney itself is 30cm, then it shouldn't be a problem. I have wooden studs directly on the chimney, and the chimney sweep didn't say anything about them when he approved my new stove in a flue that hadn't been used for burning before.
Yes, that's what I meant by the distance to the chimney flue. But I don't know how much brick there needs to be.
There are modular chimneys today that according to the manufacturer are approved to be built with wood against them, but that does not mean they are approved by the fire authorities in your specific municipality. Always check your municipality's regulations.
Ok, thank you so much for all the answers, my murstock is from the 1920s and the bjälklaget already lies against it, so there should be no problems, but it's only one layer of brick around it, i.e., 10 cm brick + 1-2 cm plaster.