Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mikael_L: LECA insulation blocks might be what you're looking for. U-value 0.17 - 0.31 depending on the design and wall thickness. But, check out maxit's website, they have a lot of good PDFs.
toker78: how much can it cost to lower a ceiling of 34 sqm. was thinking of using metal studs but am not sure if I should have plasterboard or "regular" ceiling.
ByggPutte: Sheet metal studs are quick and convenient. You might need a reinforcement stud that is attached upwards, since it is 340cm wide. Best regards, Putte
zingo: Available everywhere, even at Överskottsbolaget in exactly the same brand as the more expensive hardware stores sell at 30-50% higher prices.
JPW: Don't such screws come with new hinges like BLUM (e.g., Clas Ohlsson no. 31-2114)? A bit unnecessarily expensive per screw, but maybe OK if you really need them and just a few.
Bror: Horizontal studs, horizontal chipboard, vertical drywall? The problem is when you need to screw the drywall, you only have the chipboard to screw into. If you glue the drywall, it might work. Installing vertical studs with frame screws is good but quite complicated and expensive. I would have installed the studs with a fully threaded screw, using a wedge-shaped spacer that I move as needed.
P-plats: Essve has: http://katalog.toolstore.se/webspeed/katalog/kat_produkt.p?bid=V70&kat_bid=V70&dokid=wc320116&katnr=1&katsektnr=97 ...and their retailers can be found here: http://www.essve.com/templates/EframePage.aspx?id=3529
lastkaj: Macadam has better load-bearing capacity than gravel, as they interlock better. Then there is washed macadam, which is better if you want a better non-capillary layer than regular macadam.
rickard: Hello I wonder if it's possible to add another layer of plaster to the existing one on the chimney or if you have to knock it off all the way to the bricks. And if it's possible to add another layer, what is the minimum that can be applied approximately.
toker78: going to install downlights and they require a certain installation depth. but I think it will be about 10-15cm. thanks for the answer!
jon_h: It varies greatly how much load a floor chipboard can handle (the breaking point) and how much load it can bear before it starts to flex too much. Moreover, one must specify over how large an area the load is distributed. And I don't really have a numerical answer for either of the situations. Additionally, it's not a relevant question in your case, because you have a construction that is
andersmc: Are you going to invest in tile-effect laminate in the storage room? The fact that it looks like tiles is mainly an aesthetic factor. Additionally, it's more work to lay than regular laminate because you have pattern matching.
basil: I know there has been a lot written about buying materials in Poland here, and that you are often referred to the link about Poland that is 3 years old. However, I wonder if anyone has links to pages in Poland in English. Everything I find is in Polish and I find it difficult to find the information I need. Grateful for all the "fresh" help I can get. - Björn
Hundkojan: Next week we are going down to hopefully find some good deals and shop for our construction project. But now to the question, how have you experienced people managed transportation from Poland to Sweden? We will need to transport it with some kind of trucking company since we are unable to bring the items immediately... Please share your experiences. Thank you.
jon_h: They might, but that's not why I discourage them. They offer no possibility for adjustment, so if you absolutely want spacers, I think backer rod is preferable.
imported_Byggaren: You should allow the foundation (kantelementen) to follow the outer wall above in the setback to prevent cold from entering through the slab in the house. Place the truss on a beam that follows the outer wall past the setback so that you don't have to fuss with the truss because the support is set back.
johnnyz: I would use expansion nails if it's a wooden stud, works superbly. If there is moisture in the slab, I would use a metal sill at the bottom instead of wood. Then I would use a short nail plug type 50mm long.
johnnyz: Let the carpet lie loose since it is not a wet area. One option to level the floor is to first prime it and then use a filler called A45 ardex. That should work in your case.
RobertC: [citat] It was a pity you didn’t say this before I went down and bought nails :) I guess I’ll have to go down and buy those too. Feels like they will come in handy anyway.
Robert_Maria: A couple of villas in the Västerås area have been built in this way. It's certainly smart if you build quickly, but in one particular case, the roof lay without either tar paper or tiles for a couple of weeks and waited for lifting onto the slab. This resulted in the roof structure becoming soaking wet and damp after a week of rain.
Stefan_E: This text comes from Login page - TräGuiden Caution should be exercised when making notches and holes in a load-bearing beam. Notches or holes not shown on the drawing must be approved by the responsible engineer before they are executed on-site. If in doubt, a control calculation should be carried out. By coordinating the frame and installations for HVAC and electricity, openings can be
Constructum Domus: Here you can see different types of takstolar.
Avbytaren: I am going to buy tiles for the bathroom, about 25 sqm of tiles and about 11 sqm of clinker. I am planning to travel to Kalmar from Västervik and would gladly receive tips on which stores are available in Kalmar and along the way (Oskarshamn, Mönsterås, etc.), I can also consider making some detours from the E22. Can someone help me?