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House Thoughts, Porotherm Skåne Cottage on Slab
Considering building a house once I find the plot I'm looking for here in Skåne.
A good friend was recommended that Porotherm could be built by only gluing about 40 cm brick blocks and then plastering both the inside and outside. I have found house constructions where they build this way and have tried to unearth potential advantages/disadvantages with this building method from this site.
Novahem has built three villas in a way that reflects the thoughts I have had so far: http://www.novahem.se/object/Svenstorp_3-53_broschyr.pdf
Poured concrete slab, Porotherm frame, wooden joists, cc 60, no peculiarities regarding floor plan. Ventilation and heating via underfloor heating in the concrete slab and mechanical ventilation with heat (FTX) and wood burning/chimney through the house.
Attaching some images linked from Novahem's construction pages. I am now wondering what aspects there are to consider with this construction. I have a feeling that a stone house would be preferable. I also plan to carry out most of the work myself. The cost aspect is important, I've been informed that Porotherm blocks cost around 450 SEK/m2, which doesn't seem too bad, the rest is more or less "standard" building materials. This price is excluding plaster. I'm thinking I can focus on getting up a weatherproof shell and then take everything in stages after that.
- Can the Porotherm blocks stand erected without plaster for a month or months if time doesn't allow? That is, can you continue building inside the shell without having applied the plaster?
How is the heating in such a house, 1½ stories with stone on the ground floor and wood above. Does an FTX system fit? Are there more suitable ventilation solutions that might be more economical? The house will probably not be within reach of municipal utilities (district heating). Which I otherwise do not see as a problem.
Will such a joist (cc 60 + insulation + floor board + gypsum) create a lot of noise when someone walks around on the upper floor? I think of mountain cottages when I see wood in the joists, but I can't help but hope that it can be soundproofed?
What would the scenario look like if I built the ground floor initially and left the upper floor as storage until I need the space? That is, if I open up for the upper floor from day one. Noticeable heat loss?
How do the roof trusses work, do they rest directly on the Porotherm wall? I see some kind of wood "sill-like" plank in the images from Novahem. What is the practice here, do you really place wood in between, shouldn't there be some form of plastic between the brick wall and the roof truss? Does the joist rest in the same way directly on the Porotherm blocks?
Many unstructured questions, feel free to spin off on the thinking. All feedback is good.
Some pictures of the current house type.
It looks moderately simple to build with Porotherm, I must say:
NovaHem
NovaHem
http://www.novahem.se/news/bilder/P4060290.JPG
Porotherm walls and joists in progress:
NovaHem
A good friend was recommended that Porotherm could be built by only gluing about 40 cm brick blocks and then plastering both the inside and outside. I have found house constructions where they build this way and have tried to unearth potential advantages/disadvantages with this building method from this site.
Novahem has built three villas in a way that reflects the thoughts I have had so far: http://www.novahem.se/object/Svenstorp_3-53_broschyr.pdf
Poured concrete slab, Porotherm frame, wooden joists, cc 60, no peculiarities regarding floor plan. Ventilation and heating via underfloor heating in the concrete slab and mechanical ventilation with heat (FTX) and wood burning/chimney through the house.
Attaching some images linked from Novahem's construction pages. I am now wondering what aspects there are to consider with this construction. I have a feeling that a stone house would be preferable. I also plan to carry out most of the work myself. The cost aspect is important, I've been informed that Porotherm blocks cost around 450 SEK/m2, which doesn't seem too bad, the rest is more or less "standard" building materials. This price is excluding plaster. I'm thinking I can focus on getting up a weatherproof shell and then take everything in stages after that.
- Can the Porotherm blocks stand erected without plaster for a month or months if time doesn't allow? That is, can you continue building inside the shell without having applied the plaster?
How is the heating in such a house, 1½ stories with stone on the ground floor and wood above. Does an FTX system fit? Are there more suitable ventilation solutions that might be more economical? The house will probably not be within reach of municipal utilities (district heating). Which I otherwise do not see as a problem.
Will such a joist (cc 60 + insulation + floor board + gypsum) create a lot of noise when someone walks around on the upper floor? I think of mountain cottages when I see wood in the joists, but I can't help but hope that it can be soundproofed?
What would the scenario look like if I built the ground floor initially and left the upper floor as storage until I need the space? That is, if I open up for the upper floor from day one. Noticeable heat loss?
How do the roof trusses work, do they rest directly on the Porotherm wall? I see some kind of wood "sill-like" plank in the images from Novahem. What is the practice here, do you really place wood in between, shouldn't there be some form of plastic between the brick wall and the roof truss? Does the joist rest in the same way directly on the Porotherm blocks?
Many unstructured questions, feel free to spin off on the thinking. All feedback is good.
Some pictures of the current house type.
It looks moderately simple to build with Porotherm, I must say:
NovaHem
NovaHem
http://www.novahem.se/news/bilder/P4060290.JPG
Porotherm walls and joists in progress:
NovaHem
Perhaps a slightly strange question.
As I understand it, it's a bit more cumbersome to run electricity in the brick blocks, with the additional milling step and so on. Is it okay to run VP pipes or even flex pipes embedded in the slab for the most obvious runs that need to be made? I think I've seen this on some casting site, any aspects regarding this?
As I understand it, it's a bit more cumbersome to run electricity in the brick blocks, with the additional milling step and so on. Is it okay to run VP pipes or even flex pipes embedded in the slab for the most obvious runs that need to be made? I think I've seen this on some casting site, any aspects regarding this?
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