Building Materials and Construction Technology
Dice: There are quite a few doors and windows, a decision has been made to plaster all the walls and change the trims, but I thank you for the tips, it even ended up that we will replace a window while we're at it.
yens: The advantage I noticed when I tested the clips was that you can "snap" them onto the primary, and then you can squeeze the secondary a bit to adjust it. At first, I was worried that you had to insert the clips from the edge of the studs, but I didn't have to. For my kitchen ceiling, it should be about 50 clips, at 6 kronor each, so I guess I have to consider if it's worth it...
Snaskpelle: The attachment should reasonably be included in their description, ask them.
imported_Byggaren: The simplest way is obviously to frame up walls directly around the future stair opening on a sill and place a so-called top plate over the top of the studs cut to fit snugly between the sill and the top plate. Then cut out the opening. A suitable dimension for the vertical studs (spacing 600) and the sill is 45x95. The top plate should be a 45 x145 on edge, which you embed in the top of the
linc: As it stands now, the lid has been completely screwed on and the fridge has been placed right next to it. What I want to do is move the fridge as far against the wall as possible to gain a couple of extra centimeters of space when you're standing and doing the dishes at the sink. It's a studio apartment with a _small_ kitchenette, so every centimeter makes it better. Where else could there be
imported_Byggaren: If you mean the wall parallel to the gables, it is likely not load-bearing. However, it can be wind-bracing, although it is highly unlikely given the short length of the house. (That function is usually assigned to the gables.) If you mean the wall parallel to the eaves/ridge towards the eaves, it's difficult to determine with just this information. It depends on how the roof truss is
Mikael_L: [citat] Then it's like this, you can't compare nail and screw holes in the vapor barrier when it's pressed between two materials, e.g., between a stud and a wallboard, to when there's a "free" hole in the plastic. The problem with holes in the vapor barrier is mainly that humid indoor air can literally spray into the structure that should be protected from moisture, e.g., if there is an issue
jon_h: Do so. You can always throw in an ad here too, under "for sale".
fn76: Ok. It was a smart type of steel rule. You learn new things every day. I will search more regarding this construction method, but it seems to be difficult for the self-builder, only prefab, it seems. Thank you for spending your time and brainpower on my questions.
Svanteson: Pysslarn - Sounds like it's something similar in my apartment. Your description seems the most reasonable. Sigh... :( If it has to be done properly, it probably involves tearing down walls, setting up a new framework, and putting on gypsum. It will have to be a future project... Thanks for all the answers! Best regards/Nicklas
jon_h: Sure they manage, I have never said anything else. It seems like you are not reading what I write. And as I wrote in the other thread, the vibrations that occur when jumping on the floor when it is laid on 1200 c/c are not okay according to current construction requirements. It holds of course, but it is not considered to meet the standards one might expect from a modern construction. Therefore,
Larsa: The trellis should not have any load-bearing function. As for risers, as far as I know there are rules on how large the gap can be between the steps due to the risk that children might get stuck/fall through. However, I'm not sure what the rules are. Also, keep in mind that risers can have a certain dampening effect for sound between the floors.
Larsa: The roof construction is convenient as it allows for high ceilings and an airy space, but it is not suitable for longer distances. Splicing the roof joists will not work. I would think that you need to keep the partition wall or replace it with a beam if there is room. You will likely need some sort of support as it spans 5.4m. The other option is to tear down the old roof and build a new roof
tob_ekl: very good and thank you. a dunkare it will be and the same thickness as the concrete before. I will do so.
Linnex: Place the floor joist on the sill. For the wall that goes across the floor joist, if necessary, install nogging at the ends of the floor joist and place the outer wall ON the floor joist. For the wall that should run along the floor joist, place the wall on the sill and AGAINST the floor joist.
holulf: I have a newly built basement room constructed with 25 cm Leca, insulated with Platon membrane, Platon mat, and 70 mm EPS on the outside. The room is built on a concrete slab with 300 mm insulation in the slab and water-based underfloor heating. Now, the room will be used by our son as a teen room, and therefore we want to insulate the room on the inside so that the walls don't "feel cold," how
ornet: as someone wrote earlier. -There's no problem with the tape, it's worse with the adhesive- joint tape for diffusion plastic is available at the hardware store. Mine was bright green.
Snaskpelle: Arcways Stair CAD Blocks Stairs - Architects detail sheets : JELD-WEN Windows and Doors Staircase Photo Gallery - Stair Style Catalog /pelle
Snaskpelle: It may simply be that if an architect/builder uses a proven method and it doesn't work so well, they can at least refer to it as proven. If they use an unusual one that doesn't work, they can expect to incur hefty costs to replace it with something else... What would you choose? ;-) Specifying in detail how it should be built from the National Board of Housing, Building and Planning is something
MathiasS: [citat] After having cut out some windows in siporex, my tip is to stick to the handsaw - it's dusty as hell anyway. With the angle grinder acting like a smoke machine, I think you'll get tired before you're finished. It's easy to saw through the siporex, and the reinforcement is probably vertical, so it shouldn't be a problem. It's easy to saw very precisely even with a handsaw.
Kjell_G: This is how I finally did it, seams offset by 400mm and the same measurement at the end on both sides of the room. (Yes, I have a past at Kungliga Postverket - a vigorous job) Kjell G
esox71: I think it's becoming difficult to find such places. The supermarkets seem to be taking over more and more. It's probably just like with the electronics chains, or we're already there :(.
ByggaNytt: Why gypsum and not plaster? I assume you have already read this thread: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40280-hjaelp-ang-gips-pa-kaellarvaeggar.html
Snaskpelle: I would have gone for something like Jula Mail Order Hinges but preferably a bit larger Keep in mind that it gets very back-heavy so you'll probably need "skids" under the back legs or very angled back legs.
Pasta: [citat] The most important thing when storing under a tarp is to stretch out the tarp so that the wind can ventilate away all the ground moisture that rises and risks condensing against the tarp. You need to place a pallet or lumber on top of the drywall so that the tarp does not rest against the drywall, and on at least two sides, the tarp must be open for ventilation. The worst thing you can do
Eklundh: Hello! The dilemma I have is that the wall will temporarily be only about 10-11 cm thick. This is with double plasterboards and paneling. I bought a complete conservatory at Willab for an extended summer, and it comes with studs for the wall that are only 4.5cmx4.5cm. I spoke with a friend who works full-time as a firefighter and carpenter in his spare time, and he looked into it for me. Double
assa: Thermokub System Sunde http://www.thermohus.nu/ Home Dorocell Dorotherm