Planning to renovate in the basement... I've already done one room, but now the hallway needs to be renovated. What I'm considering is how to stud the outer wall as thinly as possible... (want to put drywall on top).??... because the staircase comes down with a curve toward the outer wall and if I stud first with a 45mm metal stud and then 13mm drywall, the staircase will be "built into" the wall if you understand....?!... because the board that holds the steps is about 40-45mm... and I can't build out more than that from the wall, otherwise it will look odd.......are there thinner metal studs than 45mm??.... or can I use tar paper and stud with thin wooden studs???? Thanks in advance / M
 
came up with one more thing.....how do you best attach wooden studs to a concrete wall in the basement?? You'd go grey if you have to drill/plug every attachment point for the studs......?????
/
M
 
Wooden studs against concrete on exterior basement walls are not a particularly good idea. Why do you insist on having sheet material on the walls? Wouldn't plaster be an alternative?

(If you need to attach wooden studs to concrete in general, nail plugs work well. You drill a hole directly through the stud into the wall, and drive in the nail plug).
 
Could work to frame with hat profiles that are used for suspended ceilings. I think the thinnest ones are 25mm thick. There is also a special notched trowel for ardex s48 so you can easily apply adhesive strips for air behind the panels and then glue the panels.

Best regards, Putte
 
one of the reasons is that I would like to wallpaper, the other is that I would like to cover electrical wiring etc......will install a new ceiling and new floor and I think it will feel strange with plastered walls then....or?
 
I am currently working on a basement renovation and have removed the wood against the exterior wall. Nothing like that is ever going back up!

For me, the precautionary principle applies, especially when it comes to material choices in the basement because the consequences can be so undesirable. We ourselves are going to have painted plaster walls in the basement; we plan to paint motifs or use stencils to be able to create patterns.
 
The "boring" thing about a plastered wall is that you have to have all the electrical wires visible... feels a bit bothersome... :)... but maybe it'll have to be that way anyway...
/
M
 
You can mill grooves and smooth in pipes if you want
 
okii....what kind of milling machine does one need to handle it:)??
 
Look in the Elforumet. It has been discussed there quite recently if I remember correctly.
 
Available for rent is a milling machine with double blades so you get a finished section to chop/break away. It is recommended to rent with a vacuum cleaner. It is also possible to use a small demolition hammer with a curved chisel. But it is suitable for lightweight walls like leca or ytong.

Best regards, Putte
 
Clear recommendation to groove, I've just done it in my basement and it looks incredibly neat to not see the cable mess. Then it was finished with gypsum plaster to a slightly textured surface. It creates an awful lot of dust when cutting through old plaster and concrete hollow block, so a vacuum cleaner is a must.

Together with the carpenter, I considered framing some exterior walls with wooden stud on sill paper, but we went with metal stud instead. We'll see how it works. The plan is to install ventilation openings on the part of the wall that's below ground level; above ground, it's insulated on the inside.
 
so you used metal studs?
I don't really have "room" to use metal studs... since the thinnest metal stud is 45mm, right?... is it possible to use a wooden stud instead with tar paper between the wall and the stud?... does that work?
best regards
M
 
Can you apply Asfaltboard directly on the basement wall? It should insulate a little.
 
Asfaboard is not in any way moisture-sensitive. It is a wood panel. Not a good idea.
 
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