Is there any good tip on how to saw exterior trim for a doorway that faces plastered leca walls?
The side against the door frame will be straight, but against the plaster, it "differs" a few centimeters in different places. I tried measuring every ten centimeters, marked out the measurements on the trim (22x95), and finally used a jigsaw. However, the result was not good.
Is there any way to make a template to get somewhat smooth curves against the uneven sides? I don't know if it will look good to fill so much between the trim and the plaster. And who knows if it will adhere properly.
The side against the door frame will be straight, but against the plaster, it "differs" a few centimeters in different places. I tried measuring every ten centimeters, marked out the measurements on the trim (22x95), and finally used a jigsaw. However, the result was not good.
Is there any way to make a template to get somewhat smooth curves against the uneven sides? I don't know if it will look good to fill so much between the trim and the plaster. And who knows if it will adhere properly.
If you hold the trim where it should be positioned, vertically, but slightly offset on the frame, you can then use a pencil and a block of suitable thickness to follow the plastered wall. You trace the exact profile of the wall onto the trim by dragging the pencil and block along the wall. Of course, the block must be just thick enough (and/or the trim sufficiently pushed into the frame) for the measurement to be correct. You can also use a folding ruler with the pencil pinched against it, though it can be a bit trickier to keep it in the right place all the way.
I hope you understand what I mean, it wasn't entirely easy to explain in text.
I hope you understand what I mean, it wasn't entirely easy to explain in text.
Thanks! Exactly what I needed.jon_h said:
Basically, the easiest way would be if I have, for example, a 21*44 strip that I place against the wall in two different places so that if I place the trim against these two strips, the trim is vertical and stable. If I now cut a small piece of a 21*44 strip, say two centimeters, and hold the pencil against its edge and draw along the wall, the pencil will be the strip's 21 millimeters out, while the trim is the same 21 millimeters out, and I'm drawing the wall's contour on the trim.
Do you have recommendations for the block's dimensions (too narrow and it won't be straight, too tall and it becomes unstable)
--- Mats ---
I’m not really sure how to explain it differently.. But imagine you shift the trim, for example, 20 mm further towards the center of the door than it’s supposed to be, and maybe temporarily attach it with a couple of brads. Then you take a piece of wood, 20 mm wide, and drag it along with a pencil (holding it so that it draws on the trim) along the plastered surface. A line will be drawn on the trim, and this line will follow the contour of the plastered surface. If you’re careful, you can then saw precisely along the line, and the trim will fit perfectly when you put it in place.Mikke said:
If you offset the trim as much as it is wide, you can use a scrap piece from the same trim as a spacing block.
Mats: It wouldn’t quite work as you thought, because it’s not certain that the trim is offset exactly 21 mm out from its final place, just because the blocks are 21 mm. The untrimmed trim could be much wider than it ultimately should be, that only works if the trim is already exactly as wide as it’s supposed to be...
Yes, that is correct jon_h, it's not easy to explain.....................but why on earth... does it end up like this. Wouldn't it have been easier, from the start, for the one who is plastering to set up a couple of strips where the trim will end up, and plaster up to these. Then you get a trim that is straight, just like the door frame, one would assume.