I will hire professionals to build the shell of a new house. I plan to build the interior walls myself. How much can the carpenters build of the exterior walls including insulation and drywall against the exterior wall? How does the electrical work fit in and how do you mount the interior walls to the slab, should there be any subfloor? There will be water-borne heating in the slab.
If you have a regular insulated slab, it works fine with PL400 or similar construction adhesive between the concrete and a sill plate. The wiring is routed through the interior walls and then in the ceiling to the panel.
The carpenters can probably build up any skill level of the outer walls, possibly excepting the panels on the inside, which I think it might be suitable for you to place yourself in connection with the completion of the other interior walls (it has, for example, a bit to do with the electrical wiring, among other things).
But actually, I'm wondering if maybe it's worth it for you to insulate and install the moisture barrier yourself. I think you can save a decent amount of money on this, and since it's your own future energy bill, you might do it more carefully than the craftsmen (if you end up with any who are a bit careless).
The electrical wiring is preferably done in the walls, except for things like any kitchen island that has to be routed in the slab. First, pipes and boxes are installed in the walls at the same time as the panels are put up, then finalized when the wallpaper, or whatever it is to be, is ready.
I would use screws + plugs or concrete expansion screws to attach the bottom plate for the interior walls to the slab, but it's important to know where the underfloor heating loops are. I would place 0.2mm age-resistant plastic under the bottom plate, or roofing felt or something else moisture-stopping so that the bottom plate doesn't absorb moisture from the slab. On the ceiling, I would attach a corresponding piece of framing and then frame the interior wall between this and the floor bottom plate.
With mats_o's suggestion to glue the bottom plate, you don't risk any of the underfloor heating loops, but I would still want to fasten it a bit more "properly."
If the slab is sufficiently even and good on the surface, you can apply (potentially primer + waterproof membrane) + adhesive + tiles or underlay foam + click flooring directly on the slab, if it's too uneven, you'll have to fill it first. You must wait at least 3 months before tiles and about 9 months before wood/click flooring.
I can't give any advice about wooden floors, parquet, or vinyl. Wooden floors are considered borderline for effective underfloor heating, I believe.
But actually, I'm wondering if maybe it's worth it for you to insulate and install the moisture barrier yourself. I think you can save a decent amount of money on this, and since it's your own future energy bill, you might do it more carefully than the craftsmen (if you end up with any who are a bit careless).
The electrical wiring is preferably done in the walls, except for things like any kitchen island that has to be routed in the slab. First, pipes and boxes are installed in the walls at the same time as the panels are put up, then finalized when the wallpaper, or whatever it is to be, is ready.
I would use screws + plugs or concrete expansion screws to attach the bottom plate for the interior walls to the slab, but it's important to know where the underfloor heating loops are. I would place 0.2mm age-resistant plastic under the bottom plate, or roofing felt or something else moisture-stopping so that the bottom plate doesn't absorb moisture from the slab. On the ceiling, I would attach a corresponding piece of framing and then frame the interior wall between this and the floor bottom plate.
With mats_o's suggestion to glue the bottom plate, you don't risk any of the underfloor heating loops, but I would still want to fasten it a bit more "properly."
If the slab is sufficiently even and good on the surface, you can apply (potentially primer + waterproof membrane) + adhesive + tiles or underlay foam + click flooring directly on the slab, if it's too uneven, you'll have to fill it first. You must wait at least 3 months before tiles and about 9 months before wood/click flooring.
I can't give any advice about wooden floors, parquet, or vinyl. Wooden floors are considered borderline for effective underfloor heating, I believe.
Thanks for the long answer 
I would probably want to have the outer inner walls installed to save time and be able to start up some elements. I can install the inner ceiling myself. But the question is about electricity, maybe it can't be combined, if the wiring is in the ceiling, can it be routed down into the inner walls?
Are we talking about the sill for the outer wall or also the inner wall, if you use steel tracks instead of wood, you might be able to skip the moisture barrier. Regarding the outer wall and the sill, what is the most common method on a slab on grade?
9 months before you can lay wooden flooring, that sounds incredibly long???
I would probably want to have the outer inner walls installed to save time and be able to start up some elements. I can install the inner ceiling myself. But the question is about electricity, maybe it can't be combined, if the wiring is in the ceiling, can it be routed down into the inner walls?
Are we talking about the sill for the outer wall or also the inner wall, if you use steel tracks instead of wood, you might be able to skip the moisture barrier. Regarding the outer wall and the sill, what is the most common method on a slab on grade?
9 months before you can lay wooden flooring, that sounds incredibly long???