Building Materials and Construction Technology
jon_h: No, it becomes twice as stiff if they are just attached without interaction, and that's sufficient in this case. However, sure, if they are fully glued and can interact, it becomes significantly stiffer, but this is not needed at all in this case. It is more than sufficiently stiff with just screwed panels at c/c 600.
StellanKarlgren: Hello. I'm wondering if anyone here has pictures of their installed mouldings in a smalllandsvilla. I need some tips and ideas, preferably in the form of pictures.
jalakas: I have ordered a sink from Fondamenta in Gothenburg. It was supposed to be delivered a week ago, but when I contacted them, I haven't received a new delivery date; they just said they would get back to me. Has anyone had similar experiences with them?
Mikael_L: It is clear that in that case, you need to replace them with something else. If you just remove them, your roof will collapse. We can strike the word "can" and use "will" instead, on Volvo's post if you just remove the braces. What you should/can replace them with probably can't be determined with the information we have. However, there's a risk it might become quite complicated, just so you're
arny: Feel free to use stainless dyckert, so you can be sure it withstands the environment.
kinshasa: Thanks Jon, I'll probably go with "just in case" too- it feels silly to bypass such a simple precaution. Best regards, Jörgen
andersmc: Brass is quite close to copper (copper alloy). I remember from the time when I had a boat - before I built a house (sigh) that if you attached brass fittings with stainless screws, it corroded the brass.
jon_h: There is no practical difference as far as I know. As for the specific Mineriten for wet rooms, it has a waterproof membrane on both sides, in any case.
Harleydavid: I was thinking about this one: http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=34219
Totte_S: [citat] $90 for 250 pcs 4".:eek: No thanks, even though it is a good screw. But thanks for the tips and input from everyone. As mentioned, I had a box of 5" galvanized nails that I've hammered in a likely required quantity ;). That the sill would move in my case didn't seem likely either, but it's a good warning. It seems to hold well where it is, and the beams lie pointwise against the
olni65: And after some advertising in another thread, I also have it (or at least a similar book just about skarvar). References to it can be found here. http://forum.byggahus.se/verktyg-maskiner-fordon/67992-kexning-vs-pluggning.html#post463897
imported_Byggaren: 18 mm ply is more than sufficient. Normally, it's 12 mm K-ply. The roof tiles should not rest directly on the plywood but on horizontal battens, nailed to counter battens that should run from the ridge to the eaves to allow any water/moisture that might enter under the roof tiles to flow down to the drip edge/gutter. The battens mainly support between the rafters. _________________ Byggaren
Joukko: Some pictures of different fences would be nice as well. We don't want regular straight boards. Jocke
Per_Kylsten: It is worth noting that the material of the bridge plays a big role in how much energy it transmits. Concrete conducts heat/cold about 15 times better than wood. Iron (in sheets, reinforcement, etc.) conducts approximately 35 times better than concrete. Even a relatively small thermal bridge consisting of sheet metal can conduct large amounts of energy. /per
Johan Gunverth: Place a cut-out piece of a regular insulation board at all "holes".
ByggaNytt: It is not uncommon to find "only" skew nailing from house suppliers, even if one might wish for something different.... I used double building angles myself: [bild] The outermost trusses are also attached to the vertical wall studs on the gables, so if the roof is to lift, the whole house must go with it.....:D
Chao-Li: Thanks for the tip, Haagbard. In this part of Sweden, we do know that it can be quite windy..
Marta: Hi, I am thinking of replacing the outer layer of our front door, which currently consists of a roughly 15mm thick vertically standing panel. Since we want a smooth painted exterior, I was thinking of switching to some form of sheet material. My first thought was to switch to high-quality plywood, another thought is MDF, but I suspect it may be sensitive to moisture. So if you have other ideas or
Sandberg: In my condominium, the interior walls are made of lightweight concrete. Two walls that were perpendicular to each other were joined together with two nails of about that size, so it can't be entirely wrong. I demolished one of the walls and installed a stud, then used some nails and glued the stud with PL400.
aggen: Great, it will be sleeping pads. I wonder if you can use this if you are going to cast a foundation and need to cast around a timber beam that supports a wall.
imported_Byggaren: As a curiosity, it can be mentioned that a house, built in the same way as all others in a larger housing group in central Sweden and by the same contractor at the same time, which is located in the middle of the group, is suffering from strong negative effects. The owner is despairing. It is not possible to have the windows open at certain times of the year, because then he gets all the smoke
Alsti18: Is there anyone who can off the top of their head name a building supply store in Stockholm that stocks narrow beadboard, 70 mm or alternatively tongue and groove with two beads? Only need a few linear meters...
emmanicke: Thanks for the quick reply, I think I will also manage to do this. Ps it was correct that it is a fence. Nicke
ByggaNytt: Good plug in Leca, but expensive.... http://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus-garage-friggebod-m-m/3923-laekt-pa-leca.html#post45723
styrman1: Pallningsbrickor are available for purchase at the lumber yard. 2, 5, and 10mm thick.
snickarboden: Regarding material choice, it is always safest to check with the chimney sweep, as he/she is the one who needs to approve everything. Generally, it is required that there is 100 mm to combustible material, and if you go below this, minerit boards are necessary. How you build the box is somewhat up to how you want to do it, you can frame and lower an entire shaft, but expect it to take time. The
jakim: I probably would have chosen a thicker dimension over the door, maybe 45x 200 or something.
jon_h: So little. So use the same grout as you use for the rest of the floor, or matching silicone. :)