As the headline says, it's about double boards...
The problem is that Th, who provided the material, says you should set the studs at cc450, screw 1200 chipboard in staggered lengths, meaning not necessarily placing the chipboard joints on the studs. Furthermore, according to their instructions, you should screw 900 plasterboard onto this, with the plasterboard attached at the stud joints, etc.
But the carpenters have now set the studs at 600cc and screwed the chipboard onto that, then screwed the plasterboard onto the chipboard. This means a joint is not on a stud but only on the chipboard. What's relevant here is that screws are used that make the plasterboard grip the studs.
Does what the carpenters have done work adequately? If it does, how does it work in the bathrooms that are to be fully tiled?
Grateful for help and advice...
The problem is that Th, who provided the material, says you should set the studs at cc450, screw 1200 chipboard in staggered lengths, meaning not necessarily placing the chipboard joints on the studs. Furthermore, according to their instructions, you should screw 900 plasterboard onto this, with the plasterboard attached at the stud joints, etc.
But the carpenters have now set the studs at 600cc and screwed the chipboard onto that, then screwed the plasterboard onto the chipboard. This means a joint is not on a stud but only on the chipboard. What's relevant here is that screws are used that make the plasterboard grip the studs.
Does what the carpenters have done work adequately? If it does, how does it work in the bathrooms that are to be fully tiled?
Grateful for help and advice...
Beware of plaster in the bathroom with tiled walls. Mold hazard in the cardboard. Use a cement bonded board instead, e.g. Minerit.
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Byggaren
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Byggaren
So there is no risk at all that a stud with 600cc, 1200 wide board + 900 wide gypsum/glasroc that is only screwed on one side + in the middle will start to move over time?
I am considering replacing gypsum with glasroc at the shower and bathtub. Do I also need to remove the gypsum in the rest of the bathroom? I understand from other threads that jon_h, among others, believes that there is very little or no risk at all where there is no running water against the wall.
I am considering replacing gypsum with glasroc at the shower and bathtub. Do I also need to remove the gypsum in the rest of the bathroom? I understand from other threads that jon_h, among others, believes that there is very little or no risk at all where there is no running water against the wall.
The question is what to have behind the Glasroc. Glasroc itself is honestly the most fragile thing I've encountered. Just looking at it nearly makes the gypsum crumble. Probably a factor of 10 less durable than regular gypsum.
I believe I could easily punch through double Glasroc on cc30.
However, if you put a chipboard behind it becomes much stiffer (and the fist would likely lose in a close encounter) but that's not allowed and triple layers of Glasroc would be unaffordable; even double layers are actually very expensive. That you then have to mount it on wooden studs is strange (even though they recommend their metal studs).
So the question is what to do to avoid being left with the short end of the stick. Bathrooms were expensive enough as they were, but now it's starting to cost much more. Plus, nobody knows anything (except for some here on the forum, of course).
Amid all the 600 government agencies, there should be a wet room authority that approves wet room systems and provides clear guidelines. Or why don't the insurance companies come together for this, it should pay off quickly in terms of reduced damages, as it is now, you have to search for information for several weeks and draw your own conclusions. There really aren't that many ways to build a wall.
Sorry for some OT.
I believe I could easily punch through double Glasroc on cc30.
However, if you put a chipboard behind it becomes much stiffer (and the fist would likely lose in a close encounter) but that's not allowed and triple layers of Glasroc would be unaffordable; even double layers are actually very expensive. That you then have to mount it on wooden studs is strange (even though they recommend their metal studs).
So the question is what to do to avoid being left with the short end of the stick. Bathrooms were expensive enough as they were, but now it's starting to cost much more. Plus, nobody knows anything (except for some here on the forum, of course).
Amid all the 600 government agencies, there should be a wet room authority that approves wet room systems and provides clear guidelines. Or why don't the insurance companies come together for this, it should pay off quickly in terms of reduced damages, as it is now, you have to search for information for several weeks and draw your own conclusions. There really aren't that many ways to build a wall.
Sorry for some OT.
I do as I please in my own house, ignore any possible insurance if something were to happen, not that I see how it could, and build in the traditional way.
/Kent
/Kent
snickarboden:Exactly! The question is, what were they really thinking? I'd like to see that bathroom built with just glasroc. Poor person who tries to hang a hook later on. That hook won't hold much at all. However, if you put a board behind it, you're in a completely different situation. If the panels aren't sturdy, it doesn't matter if they are the most moisture-resistant in the world.
I called around and checked the price on galsroc and found a cement-based board called Ivarit DryCo which is well-priced at 223SEK each. Sounds like a good solution. Does anyone have information on this product?
If I install this board, is it okay with the chipboard behind it? If not, how should I proceed as I need to maintain the same thickness on the walls?
The product sheet is available at the following URL: http://www.ivarssonsverige.se/Admin...pdf+svensk/pdf07/sv-ivarit-dryCo-brochure.pdf
If I install this board, is it okay with the chipboard behind it? If not, how should I proceed as I need to maintain the same thickness on the walls?
The product sheet is available at the following URL: http://www.ivarssonsverige.se/Admin...pdf+svensk/pdf07/sv-ivarit-dryCo-brochure.pdf
The sawdust behind will never be okay with the current rules, no matter which disc you screw on.
Solid wood is approved if I understand correctly. And tongue and groove boards aren't that expensive.jon_h said:
S
So raw cladding is approved behind (approved) boards in wet rooms, but not chipboard???jon_h said:
But sooo logical ...
Apparently, BKR claims that glue and other materials make wood-based panels much more moisture-sensitive than solid wood.
Anyone who has seen a damp and swollen chipboard would probably agree with that.ACME said: