There are places where you even need to plug before you screw on the socket. In other places, you can just shoot brads so that it echoes. In some cases, you have to attach them with glue.

Is there anything that is right or wrong?
 
No! :cool:
 
No one biting? :D
 
A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do...man takes what works from case to case, that is...
 
Nail or screw where possible; if it needs to be plugged, it's better to use glue (PL400). On a few occasions, I have attached a stud to the floor with double-sided tape, and then used wedges between it and the glued baseboard to keep it under tension until the glue dried.
 
I was thinking of the question in general. I have been in houses where you see the screw heads directly when you step inside the door, and that might not be so nice.

Personally, I prefer nails as much as possible and in the worst case, PL400.
 
I know, but this person hadn't done that. :confused:
They were attached with monteringsskruv. It didn't look good.
 
I think PL400 is really bad for attaching skirting boards/moldings, etc. The time from application to when it adheres enough so that you can let go of a molding that is not completely 100% flush with the wall, which is often the case with, for example, solid oak moldings against older concrete walls.

Plastic Padding Ultra is the answer in such cases. It adheres quickly, is water-based and odorless, paintable, strong - but not at all like PL400 - which is only bad when it comes to indoor moldings; Plastic Padding Ultra's strength is more than enough there.

Casco Superfix should also be good according to this thread: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/74881-val-av-lim.html

But as I said, if you don't want to stand and hold a piece of molding all day, and then have it attached so firmly that you almost have to tear the wall to get it off, avoid PL400...
 
No matter how you do it, visible screw or nail heads/holes are a definite no-go. There's nothing more annoying, even if it's just a hole from a brad nail. Therefore, I have finished painting my trim in place after nailing or screwing. The trim screws that, for example, Grabber offers create holes that are too large to fill, so I only use them in exceptional cases.

Assembly glue, I've realized, is an underrated method. Where I've actually used it (in rooms with concrete or Siporex walls), it's turned out very well. In fact, the trim often sits firmly even if I just apply a line of painter's caulk in the seam between the trim and wall (which can then be painted over if necessary).
 
Daniel_N said:
But as I said, if you don't want to stand and hold a piece of trim all day, and then have it attached so tightly that you almost have to tear down the wall to get it off, avoid pl400...
I've held the trim in place with something heavy. A piece of furniture, a package of tiles, etc. Do you hold everything you glue until it sticks? ;)
 
I have heard from those who glue, they set studs against the other wall to hold them in place while it dries.

No, no glue when I set moldings and baseboards, just brads. The small brad nailer is nice, everyone should have one :D.
 
There are clips that you can buy and screw in at regular intervals. Then you just click in the baseboard. It does require special baseboards though...
 
MathiasS said:
I have held the trim in place with something heavy. A piece of furniture, a package of tiles, etc. Do you hold everything you glue until it sticks? ;)
Heh, yes I do indeed:)

Regardless of furniture, tile packages, or whatnot, a fast-acting adhesive is obviously more convenient in such a situation. The fact that it doesn't smell in the house and isn't as insanely hard as pl400 is also quite nice. Plus, you can apply latex the same evening if the trim stays in place without furniture in the way.

Eventually, the furniture does run out too...
 
Daniel_N said:
Then the furniture does run out after a while too...
Ok, now I understand why it takes a bit more time for some to get the lists up :D.
 
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