I plan to install a new interior wall against the existing exterior wall to run new cables for electricity, data, home theater, etc.
There will also be a TV mounted on the wall, but as I've read on the forum, it's advisable to attach chipboard before the gypsum, which ensures there should be no issues with durability. Should I still install noggings where the TV is planned to go as a precaution? Do you glue the chipboard, by the way?
Then there's the material question, I was planning to check prices before starting so I have an idea of the cost.
Studs: 45x70? I saw someone suggested that 45x45 is enough, but the exterior walls are quite cold, plus there will be quite a few cables, so 70 seems more stable. cc 60? 45?
Insulation: Mineral wool?
Cable: Conduit or tube? I've seen that pre-installed conduit is available, which should be convenient for the 220 cables. It should be the yellow boxes if I put gypsum on top of chipboard, right?
There will also be a TV mounted on the wall, but as I've read on the forum, it's advisable to attach chipboard before the gypsum, which ensures there should be no issues with durability. Should I still install noggings where the TV is planned to go as a precaution? Do you glue the chipboard, by the way?
Then there's the material question, I was planning to check prices before starting so I have an idea of the cost.
Studs: 45x70? I saw someone suggested that 45x45 is enough, but the exterior walls are quite cold, plus there will be quite a few cables, so 70 seems more stable. cc 60? 45?
Insulation: Mineral wool?
Cable: Conduit or tube? I've seen that pre-installed conduit is available, which should be convenient for the 220 cables. It should be the yellow boxes if I put gypsum on top of chipboard, right?
I used solid boards instead of particle board! Then you can hang anything on the wall. A bit more work, but I think it's worth it.
You set the studs based on the sheets you're going to use, in your case the width of the particle boards. If you have 1200mm sheets, you go with 600mm centers, and if you have 900mm sheets, you'll need 450mm centers.
But if you use solid boards, 600mm centers are sufficient.
Regarding insulation, I think Isover or Paroc are the biggest ones. Isover uses glass wool and Paroc rock wool. It probably doesn't matter which one you use. They are likely similar in insulating ability, check the lambda value. It should be as low as possible.
It's probably mainly a question of which one you prefer to work with if they have the same lambda value.
As for the electricity, I prefer conduit. It's so easy to work with. Yellow boxes are for double gypsum, i.e., 26mm.
You set the studs based on the sheets you're going to use, in your case the width of the particle boards. If you have 1200mm sheets, you go with 600mm centers, and if you have 900mm sheets, you'll need 450mm centers.
But if you use solid boards, 600mm centers are sufficient.
Regarding insulation, I think Isover or Paroc are the biggest ones. Isover uses glass wool and Paroc rock wool. It probably doesn't matter which one you use. They are likely similar in insulating ability, check the lambda value. It should be as low as possible.
It's probably mainly a question of which one you prefer to work with if they have the same lambda value.
As for the electricity, I prefer conduit. It's so easy to work with. Yellow boxes are for double gypsum, i.e., 26mm.
Finished pulled conduit double the cost approximately ...
Had set 45*70 so the screw wouldn't reach the electricity,
Not chipboard, rough-hewn boards instead...
I would have done cc 450 with 900 plasterboard...
Had set 45*70 so the screw wouldn't reach the electricity,
Not chipboard, rough-hewn boards instead...
I would have done cc 450 with 900 plasterboard...
Thanks for the reply, I spontaneously feel like I will use råspont instead of chipboard.
A construction question though, how do you handle gypsum and studs at the start and stop? Do you set cc 60 all the way, or use smaller spacing towards the outer sides so you can place a whole gypsum board at the start?
Of course, I understand that you have to adjust on one side because the wall is hardly evenly divisible by 120, but what about the start?
A construction question though, how do you handle gypsum and studs at the start and stop? Do you set cc 60 all the way, or use smaller spacing towards the outer sides so you can place a whole gypsum board at the start?
Of course, I understand that you have to adjust on one side because the wall is hardly evenly divisible by 120, but what about the start?
The tip when starting with the gypsum board is to cut off the beveled edge (about 5 cm) so you don't have to plaster inside the corner. This means the first stud will be 5 cm closer to the "start wall" than the rest of the stud spacing.
So the first stud will be cc 55 cm (or however much you cut off) and then cc 60 between the others all the way to the end wall, which will be whatever distance it ends up being. Just a little tip...
- M
So the first stud will be cc 55 cm (or however much you cut off) and then cc 60 between the others all the way to the end wall, which will be whatever distance it ends up being. Just a little tip...
- M
Regarding hoses vs. pipes, I disagree with the "snickarhjälpen" above. A hose with pre-drawn wire doesn't cost much more than pipes + cable.
Prices from elbutik.se
100m Hose with pre-drawn 3G1.5 - 1210kr
100m Pipe and 3x100m FK 1.5 - 1075kr
The extra 135 kronor is worth it. It's much quicker to pull a hose than to pull, splice, and bend pipes and thread wire. Time is money
Prices from elbutik.se
100m Hose with pre-drawn 3G1.5 - 1210kr
100m Pipe and 3x100m FK 1.5 - 1075kr
The extra 135 kronor is worth it. It's much quicker to pull a hose than to pull, splice, and bend pipes and thread wire. Time is money
Agree with the above about using conduit. However, it might not always be pre-installed. If you only need a few outlets, that's fine, but if you need a switch wire and so on, you still need to pull the cable. Plus, it's not particularly difficult to pull a cable. It goes really fast if you just think about laying the conduits as straight as possible. Insert a pull wire, attach the cables, and pull them through. And presto, you have a wired cable.
Additionally, it can be more challenging to add an extra cable when there are already cables in the conduit.
That's what I think
Additionally, it can be more challenging to add an extra cable when there are already cables in the conduit.
That's what I think
I meant empty conduit, not pipe, since one should have some speaker cables as well as some media and FK 1.5 that can be concealed in the wall. It's a bit unnecessary to buy 100 m of pre-installed conduit then.
cc 450 since 900 gypsum is much more worker-friendly both in carrying, transporting, and mounting. Use 45x70 studs to reduce the risk mentioned above of screwing the gypsum into a pipe. Tongue and groove is all well and good, but OSB 12 mm holds things up and is much faster to put up. If you're unsure, use a couple of noggings behind where you think you'll have the TV.
Cut off 450 mm of the board and start with that against the corner; no joint compound can mess with you, and most likely, you'll finish with the leftover piece. Just remember to set the OSB with a 2-3 mm gap so the wall doesn't warp.
Cut off 450 mm of the board and start with that against the corner; no joint compound can mess with you, and most likely, you'll finish with the leftover piece. Just remember to set the OSB with a 2-3 mm gap so the wall doesn't warp.
Regarding råspont vs. OSB. If I quickly calculate using Buildmax prices, I end up with almost exactly the same price with OSB and råspont. The wall is 3.85, which means I have over a meter of OSB waste, whereas råspont results in significantly less waste.
Hello!
I would definitely have installed VP16 pipes where possible instead of tubing because, first, there is more space (in case you want to make changes in the future) and nothing is ribbed on the inside = EASY to pull, BUT where there are tricky bends, I would use tubing. Regards/Tomas
I would definitely have installed VP16 pipes where possible instead of tubing because, first, there is more space (in case you want to make changes in the future)
and nothing is ribbed on the inside = EASY to pull, BUT where there are tricky bends, I would use tubing. Regards/Tomas