Hello! I haven't worked with the disc myself, but I know others who use it and are more than satisfied. Read here, for example, to get some references.
http://www.byggnadsarbetaren.se/pdfarchive/pdffiles/files/45800-45899/file_45876.pdf
/D
http://www.byggnadsarbetaren.se/pdfarchive/pdffiles/files/45800-45899/file_45876.pdf
/D
I investigated quite thoroughly what material I should choose for my air gap, and in the end, after much deliberation, I actually went with classic masonite and battens. The reasons were several:
1. The price, I found boards at Hornbach that cost 300 (!) bucks for about 1.5 linear meters, grotesquely expensive.
2. The width, my roof trusses are not mounted with exact cc120 but it varies between 112 and 122. Masonite that is 120 is still sufficient, and it's easier to get the width exactly right.
3. Possible small leaks. I have sealed my roof hermetically, gone over it several times, and applied asphalt sealant in all places where a leak might occur, but you never know, if a small drop seeps in, I'm glad to have the smooth side of masonite facing outwards, which via overlap ensures the water runs neatly down to the eaves and into the gutter.
I also considered cellplast, but chose against it mainly due to fastening issues. How do these boards work if it's nearly cc120 (say 115), is there anything in the system that allows for handling that?
1. The price, I found boards at Hornbach that cost 300 (!) bucks for about 1.5 linear meters, grotesquely expensive.
2. The width, my roof trusses are not mounted with exact cc120 but it varies between 112 and 122. Masonite that is 120 is still sufficient, and it's easier to get the width exactly right.
3. Possible small leaks. I have sealed my roof hermetically, gone over it several times, and applied asphalt sealant in all places where a leak might occur, but you never know, if a small drop seeps in, I'm glad to have the smooth side of masonite facing outwards, which via overlap ensures the water runs neatly down to the eaves and into the gutter.
I also considered cellplast, but chose against it mainly due to fastening issues. How do these boards work if it's nearly cc120 (say 115), is there anything in the system that allows for handling that?
Personally used OSB boards and 45 studs. Works great.
I bought those corrugated cardboard panels for my roof, and I must say they were a complete disaster. Luckily, I didn't put them up right away; instead, they sat in a storage room for a while. When I later went to install them, they had started to disintegrate from the moisture, to the point where some of them couldn't be handled without falling apart. This is what would have happened if I had put them up. After a few years, they would have collapsed. The entire batch of (very expensive) corrugated cardboard ended up in a bonfire. Then I built wind deflectors out of board and timber instead.
(But of course, they are easy to put up. So in that sense, they are good.)
(But of course, they are easy to put up. So in that sense, they are good.)