53,873 views ·
22 replies
54k views
22 replies
Sawing and installing white baseboards
There was no problem putting the trim with the painted side down.
I usually do that at work when the blade is starting to wear out.
And there aren't more angles to set the blade at if you lay the piece down.
At work and at home, we can only lay the blade in one direction, so we have to lay larger trims and baseboards down to cut them when they don't fit height-wise.
It's basically only 2 angles that matter.
And when you can't angle both ways, you flip the piece.
Regards, Putte
I usually do that at work when the blade is starting to wear out.
And there aren't more angles to set the blade at if you lay the piece down.
At work and at home, we can only lay the blade in one direction, so we have to lay larger trims and baseboards down to cut them when they don't fit height-wise.
It's basically only 2 angles that matter.
And when you can't angle both ways, you flip the piece.
Regards, Putte
1. ALWAYS a fresh multiple-teeth blade (high-speed steel provides better sharpness than carbide)
2. Saw against the grain to avoid notches
3. Glue instead of nails/screws
4. Miter the joints in the middle of the wall at 30 degrees so they never show
5. A good laser distance meter halves the work time
6. Start in the outer corners
Hope these little tips bring joy
2. Saw against the grain to avoid notches
3. Glue instead of nails/screws
4. Miter the joints in the middle of the wall at 30 degrees so they never show
5. A good laser distance meter halves the work time
6. Start in the outer corners
Hope these little tips bring joy
Latex and correction fluid on pre-painted moldings?
From what I've seen so far, pre-painted white moldings are always painted with a tinted white shade, slightly different depending on the brand.
Correction fluid is bright white, and I also know that among white latex, there are only bright white options.
I tried using correction fluid on screw heads on a pre-painted trim molding - it looked awful. Compared to the correction fluid, the molding wasn't white - rather grayish-yellow.
Or have you found tinted latex or correction fluid?
/ L-O
From what I've seen so far, pre-painted white moldings are always painted with a tinted white shade, slightly different depending on the brand.
Correction fluid is bright white, and I also know that among white latex, there are only bright white options.
I tried using correction fluid on screw heads on a pre-painted trim molding - it looked awful. Compared to the correction fluid, the molding wasn't white - rather grayish-yellow.
Or have you found tinted latex or correction fluid?
/ L-O
Thank you for the answers and all the tips 
I have now managed to put up most of the floor moldings with satisfactory results in my own opinion.
As for the nail heads, I bought a small can of mixed paint in the same shade and gloss as the floor moldings, but unfortunately, I haven't had time to test the results yet.
I initially tried a dab of correction fluid in one spot, but I agree with 62_an that it doesn't look good.
I'll come back with a report once I have tested painting.
I have now managed to put up most of the floor moldings with satisfactory results in my own opinion.
As for the nail heads, I bought a small can of mixed paint in the same shade and gloss as the floor moldings, but unfortunately, I haven't had time to test the results yet.
I initially tried a dab of correction fluid in one spot, but I agree with 62_an that it doesn't look good.
I'll come back with a report once I have tested painting.
Lifting this somewhat old thread a bit...Milkshaken said:DJ: NO not with the front side down. Then you'll scratch the molding and the paint against the material....
A fine-toothed saw is the best, alternatively lay the molding down but with the paint side up.
However, you should consider that if you lay the molding down, you'll need to set the saw at several angles in different bevels...
I always lay the front side down, but with an underlay mat underneath. NOT where the cut will go, but stopping just before. Works great in my opinion.
Hey, I tried Pattex montage glue for moldings the other day, so I didn't have to worry about nail marks and stuff. Worked really great. Just need to be sure about it, probably hard to remove without force.
Glue it on and avoid all the nail holes... PL400 works well... it sticks to everything...
The risk is that if you ever try to pull off the molding, you'll end up holding the molding, drywall, and wall studs all in your hand...
The risk is that if you ever try to pull off the molding, you'll end up holding the molding, drywall, and wall studs all in your hand...
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