Hi,
I am planning to lower the ceiling for spotlights and some wiring and intend to use steel profile S45 (hat profile) in double layers to achieve the standard 10cm drop. I'm using these because I have them available and they seem suitable for this.
The hallway is 170x530cm and the bathroom is 170x250cm, and a layer of plasterboard will be placed on this.
Two questions:
1. The ceiling is concrete, which naturally involves a bit more work. But what should I use to attach the profiles and how tightly? Should I use screws and plugs or nail plugs, or what do you recommend?
2. The first layer of profiles against the concrete, what spacing should I use for these? Preferably as sparse as possible considering all the drilling in the concrete. I had to cut the profiles to fit the width of the hallway at 170cm to fit them into the elevator. Is 3 pairs of attachments enough for 170cm?
Grateful for your answer!
/Peter
I am planning to lower the ceiling for spotlights and some wiring and intend to use steel profile S45 (hat profile) in double layers to achieve the standard 10cm drop. I'm using these because I have them available and they seem suitable for this.
The hallway is 170x530cm and the bathroom is 170x250cm, and a layer of plasterboard will be placed on this.
Two questions:
1. The ceiling is concrete, which naturally involves a bit more work. But what should I use to attach the profiles and how tightly? Should I use screws and plugs or nail plugs, or what do you recommend?
2. The first layer of profiles against the concrete, what spacing should I use for these? Preferably as sparse as possible considering all the drilling in the concrete. I had to cut the profiles to fit the width of the hallway at 170cm to fit them into the elevator. Is 3 pairs of attachments enough for 170cm?
Grateful for your answer!
/Peter
Personally, I prefer to attach standard U-profiles 100mm down on the wall around and in between place wooden studs for the ceiling. It is often much easier to attach to the walls and not so many fastening points are needed either.
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=4347
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=4340
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=4347
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=4340
Hello and thank you,
That sounds wise!
But the walls towards the bathroom are made of lightweight concrete, which might not be a problem with the right screws?
How would you proceed according to the plan I am attaching, with U-profiles on the walls and then studs?
Best regards, Peter
That sounds wise!
But the walls towards the bathroom are made of lightweight concrete, which might not be a problem with the right screws?
How would you proceed according to the plan I am attaching, with U-profiles on the walls and then studs?
Best regards, Peter
The easiest way is to use a laser to mark where you want the bottom edge of the new ceiling, then attach these profiles around the entire room; it's no problem in lightweight concrete either with the right plugs and screws.
Then it's not so important to cut the studs exactly, you can cut them one cm shorter than needed so they can easily fit between the profiles.
How you lay them mostly depends on the dimensions of your ceiling. You should make sure to frame it so it matches well with the drywall panels, and at the same time consider if it has a long span, hanging it up in the middle somewhere for extra support, which is never a bad idea.
Then it's not so important to cut the studs exactly, you can cut them one cm shorter than needed so they can easily fit between the profiles.
How you lay them mostly depends on the dimensions of your ceiling. You should make sure to frame it so it matches well with the drywall panels, and at the same time consider if it has a long span, hanging it up in the middle somewhere for extra support, which is never a bad idea.