Hello,
I have walls in the basement that I believe are aerated concrete. Fairly easy to use an angle grinder on, but too heavy to saw with a handsaw
I have several doors down there that are of old standard, and now that I'm going to install new ones, I want to fit doors of the new standard. So, I need to enlarge the door frame a few centimeters on both sides and also at the top.
How do you do this? Previously, I tried with an angle grinder (180mm) but it got very dusty, you couldn't see anything, and it ended up crooked, plus the angle grinder didn't reach the middle of the concrete, so I had to go over it with a demolition hammer, which made the cut very uneven.
How do you make nice door frames in aerated concrete? Is it so bad that I need to hire a contractor who knows how to do it?
We're talking about 5 door frames in total.
Best regards,
Stefan
EDIT: By destroy in the title, I meant ENLARGE Destroying them is the last thing I want!
I have walls in the basement that I believe are aerated concrete. Fairly easy to use an angle grinder on, but too heavy to saw with a handsaw
I have several doors down there that are of old standard, and now that I'm going to install new ones, I want to fit doors of the new standard. So, I need to enlarge the door frame a few centimeters on both sides and also at the top.
How do you do this? Previously, I tried with an angle grinder (180mm) but it got very dusty, you couldn't see anything, and it ended up crooked, plus the angle grinder didn't reach the middle of the concrete, so I had to go over it with a demolition hammer, which made the cut very uneven.
How do you make nice door frames in aerated concrete? Is it so bad that I need to hire a contractor who knows how to do it?
We're talking about 5 door frames in total.
Best regards,
Stefan
EDIT: By destroy in the title, I meant ENLARGE
Destroying them is the last thing I want!Kind of like this blade?
http://www.jula.se/tigersagblad-124238
over 40cm long Nothing wrong with the length at least!
http://www.jula.se/tigersagblad-124238
over 40cm long
Nothing wrong with the length at least!It's never straight with a reciprocating saw compared to something that's really straight. But if it's aerated concrete (which in theory should be possible to handsaw, don't you have concrete blocks in the basement??) it should be straight enough to hide it with the trim.
compared to something that's really straight. But if it's aerated concrete (which in theory should be possible to handsaw, don't you have concrete blocks in the basement??) it should be straight enough to hide it with the trim.Hi,Jan-Å said:It never gets straight with a reciprocating saw
Yes, I'm considering this. I don't know the difference, to be honest. The house is from 1970. Is concrete hollow brick worse to saw? Does it ruin the reciprocating saw blade?
The current idea is to place two flat irons on each side of the wall, forming a thin groove where the reciprocating saw blade can go. That way it should be perfectly straight..! Could it work?
Our house is built from lightweight concrete on the residential floor, a mix of siporex and blåbetong. Blåbetongen is like a dry sponge, but the siporex is a bit firmer and denser, yet still a soft material. It's easier to drive nails into than wood, you can drill holes with a screwdriver and one-handed, so cutting into it shouldn't be a problem.
We have concrete hollow blocks in the foundation and basement walls, plastered, and they are significantly harder. An angle grinder in lightweight concrete would practically disappear; with a diamond blade, it can also cut through the concrete blocks without much trouble, though it's not as easy to saw into.
The flat iron model should work, but isn't it simpler to use a couple of wooden beams?
When I fixed one of the door frames in the basement, I chipped away all the plaster down to the stone and then plastered it to make it flat and straight, but I don't have a door there.
We have concrete hollow blocks in the foundation and basement walls, plastered, and they are significantly harder. An angle grinder in lightweight concrete would practically disappear; with a diamond blade, it can also cut through the concrete blocks without much trouble, though it's not as easy to saw into.
The flat iron model should work, but isn't it simpler to use a couple of wooden beams?
When I fixed one of the door frames in the basement, I chipped away all the plaster down to the stone and then plastered it to make it flat and straight, but I don't have a door there.